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37 minutes ago, griswoia said:

reconnected PC3USB and runs fine...... so bad connection.

got this as the PC3 kept flickering as it passed over 1500rpm.

thanks for the help folks.

So you didnt think it was sort of important that you would mention the bike is fitted with a power commander?????????

It takes you half the thread to mention you recently replaced the fuel filter!!!!!

Seriously, people come on here for troubleshooting advice and help and leave out the basic but highly relevant information.

This is why I'm reluctant to get involved too much in these troubleshooting issues and waste my valuable time.

Ciao  

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If you'll remember I started this thread thinking this was a fueling (a la pump or injector) issue.  The bike has had a PC forever, yep forgot to mention it.

I've gotta say it's a dissapointing response that all varriations from stock need be enumerated before an issue can be discussed.  Sweet baby Jesus these bikes are all 20ish years old.  They must have a million modifications by now.  Yep I've got pods and hey guess what a Motoscope Pro dash.  Either of those might just be contributors in an alternate reality.

This thread has given me tons of info I'll carry forward keeping these bikes on the road.  All of the discussion is archived and who knows how many future problems will be solved after reading this thread.

So guys thanks for the attention.  It gave me a good push to solve this before winter teardown season.

 

Here is my input for future readers.  The PC rolls in at 1500rpm.  So if you do fine and then can't roll on disconnect and see if the PC is at issue.  Easy test that.

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Memory has been better,  had the same problem 2weeks ago,, so remember that. Bad connection,,  could bee,,,  I say still ohm the rev sensor,, or keep your phone charged.

Cheers tom.

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Will do.

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success  

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2 hours ago, griswoia said:

unhooked powercomander 3 usb and IT WORKS!

 

GDIA!!!

 

OK Open pipes, pods, crossover.... what map should I run?

 

The highly derived stock airbox really is a desirable piece of kit. People ditch them for a lot of reasons, but it has major advantages when it comes to running quality and rideability. Plus. it is such a sexy thing! (as long as the side covers stay on . . . ;) ). Helps mightily to bell the intakes, IMHO.

V11airbox.jpg

Best V11 maps in the world come from Meinolf.  Far better than using a PC.

Also, what does guzzidiag say your CO Fuel Trimm is?

  • Haha 2

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12 hours ago, griswoia said:

If you'll remember I started this thread thinking this was a fueling (a la pump or injector) issue.  The bike has had a PC forever, yep forgot to mention it.

I've gotta say it's a dissapointing response that all varriations from stock need be enumerated before an issue can be discussed.  Sweet baby Jesus these bikes are all 20ish years old.  They must have a million modifications by now.  Yep I've got pods and hey guess what a Motoscope Pro dash.  Either of those might just be contributors in an alternate reality.

This thread has given me tons of info I'll carry forward keeping these bikes on the road.  All of the discussion is archived and who knows how many future problems will be solved after reading this thread.

So guys thanks for the attention.  It gave me a good push to solve this before winter teardown season.

 

Here is my input for future readers.  The PC rolls in at 1500rpm.  So if you do fine and then can't roll on disconnect and see if the PC is at issue.  Easy test that.

So I guess the attitude is "please help me sort my issue but I couldn't be #@$&@#@ sitting down and having a think about what things/mods I've done to my bike over the years that might impact the process of finding a resolution".

With 50 years of troubleshooting everything from commercial jets to racing motorcycles and cars YES you do need to enumerate ALL the variations, and it's NOT a DISCUSSION its a troubleshooting exercise.

I find this type of shit totally disrespectful to those that are willing to help,really I do.

Ciao  

 

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Griswoia, thx for reporting the solution.  PC3s spoiling your driving experience are reported here quite often :)

To enumerate all modifications right in the first post is an important part of the ceremony, as it helps to enumerate all theoretically possible sorts of failures ;) , the fun part of the whole thing.

But seriously, mentioning the PC3 would have solved the problem right in the first answer.

 

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Stay easy, folks! It's the internet only.

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UPDATE ---. Issue reappeared.  Pc3 was not it.  Swapped ECU from LeMans and that behaved the same.  Sport ECU runs fine on LeMans.  Cleaned contacts.  Went crazy.....

Noticed that PC would do light dance of reboot whenever it coughed.  Plugged in guzzidiag and yep ECU is flickering durring cough.... Noticed neutral night would VERY BRIEFLY flicker during cought (hell everything did but did it first??????)

Checked and NEUTRAL SWITCH CONTACT WAS OFF BUT RUBBER BOOT WAS HOLDING IT AGAINST CONTACT!!!!!

Took off side stand started and revved normally.... FML!

Cleaned contacts and SEATED NEUTRAL switch wire.  All is well.

So lesson learned is check ALL contacts not just fuses and relays.  I've just completed a clean and reseat of every sensor and ground on the bike.

Again guys thanks for the attention earlier

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I'd have preferred the P/C. A slack joint at the neutral switch is just too cheap. Reminds of my cheap and loose plug cups, shattering my elaborate phase sensor theories to silly pieces.

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5 hours ago, luhbo said:

I'd have preferred the P/C. A slack joint at the neutral switch is just too cheap. Reminds of my cheap and loose plug cups, shattering my elaborate phase sensor theories to silly pieces.

Yep. Most of the time, it's the simple stuff.. :grin:

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Anyhow, the initial description was "idles perfectly as long as you don't touch the throttle". That still doesn't match the now given solution.

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18 hours ago, luhbo said:

Anyhow, the initial description was "idles perfectly as long as you don't touch the throttle". That still doesn't match the now given solution.

I will be curious to see the response, but this is what I imagine it was. At idle the poor contact for the neutral switch was able to make contact, so it ran. As soon as you gave it a little throttle (still in neutral and on the side stand) the neutral switch lost contact and no longer said it was in neutral. With the side stand down if it looses the signal that it is in neutral and the clutch is not pulled in it will kill the ignition.

I could be wrong, but that is what I think might have been going on.

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