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Cylinder head plug


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You want a cognizant welder . One that is fully aware of what is going to be done . This is a process that is going to be done ONCE . 

 disconnecting one post of the battery will keep all the welding trouble out of the electrical system . Always disconnect the negative post . I have never made sparks with a wrench on the negative post touching the frame !

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If it's the plug that I have in mind then the head won't come off at all. But as 68C said a several times now: take a big nut, M10, M12 or bigger even, lay it onto the plug, fill in the hole usin

Again, weld a nut to the sheared off easy-out and remove it. I cannot see which type you are using, I do not like the left hand thread tapered type, as you screw them in they squeeze the nut/bolt out

You want a cognizant welder . One that is fully aware of what is going to be done . This is a process that is going to be done ONCE .   disconnecting one post of the battery will keep all the wel

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On 9/1/2019 at 2:59 PM, gstallons said:

The cylinder head comes off very easy . Don't be afraid to take it off and do it right . If things get too f'd up .Time-Sert is the ultimate repair .

If it's the plug that I have in mind then the head won't come off at all.

But as 68C said a several times now: take a big nut, M10, M12 or bigger even, lay it onto the plug, fill in the hole using a simple  arc welder and then just screw out the plug. Easiest thing in the world. No risk of damaging anything. Opposedly to what you're trying now.

Because of leakage problems it may well be that this plug is glued in with Loctite. In that case welding would be your only chance.

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2 hours ago, czakky said:

Got the nut, got the welder. Should I replace the base gasket while I’m at it?

 

Not unless you want the extra work. If you're careful and dont disturb the cylinder while pulling the head you'll be good.

Ciao

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I dropped off one head and got a call the next day from the machine shop saying the valves are way too worn to work with the guides... There was a noticeable step on the valve stem. So at this point I figured I better do both heads. Checked the usual suspects for valves, everybody had to wait for a long slow boat for Italy. I remembered that Ferracci was blowing out there inventory since they closed. Sure enough they still carry some valves and are doing an online business still. 

After pulling the right cylinder (plug came free with little drama) the cylinder tried to come with the head. So I know I have to atleast do the right side base gasket. This thing is stuck to the case like you wouldn’t believe. Arduous task to remove this thing. All the while trying to keep garbage from falling into the case....

Maybe I should drop the sump? Then there is the Roper plate...

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5 hours ago, czakky said:

I dropped off one head and got a call the next day from the machine shop saying the valves are way too worn to work with the guides... There was a noticeable step on the valve stem. So at this point I figured I better do both heads. Checked the usual suspects for valves, everybody had to wait for a long slow boat for Italy. I remembered that Ferracci was blowing out there inventory since they closed. Sure enough they still carry some valves and are doing an online business still. 

After pulling the right cylinder (plug came free with little drama) the cylinder tried to come with the head. So I know I have to atleast do the right side base gasket. This thing is stuck to the case like you wouldn’t believe. Arduous task to remove this thing. All the while trying to keep garbage from falling into the case....

Maybe I should drop the sump? Then there is the Roper plate...

Replace the valves and K-line the guides. The Ferracci valves are 1/2mm oversize from memory. I bought a set on ebay years ago.

Personally I'd go for Kibblewhite black diamond valves which are gas nitrided. Way less guide wear with them and a US company as well.

http://shop.kpmivalvetrain.com/c/sport_moto-guzzi_all-2-valve-big-blocks-1971-2012_valve-black-diamond

Ciao

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8 hours ago, czakky said:

@Phil, I’m not seeing any 39.5 or 46.5 valves listed on there website. Have you bought this size from them?

 

 Thanks 

Yep but about 6 or more years ago off Ferracci Ebay site. Still have them in my spares box but I'd go the Kibblewhite black diamonds as I mentioned before. The coated valves have way less friction than the SS valves and so less guide wear. Even on the bench you can feel this, by inserting a valve in a guide and applying some side load and moving the valve you can feel the reduced resistance.

Ciao   

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