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LangleyMalc

Replacing Front wheel bearings.

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I have just pulled the front forks on my 04 Ballabio and on checking the front wheel bearings found one was sticky and the other distinctly lumpy so they need to be replaced. Marked up as NSK 6205 DU. Is there an approved method or tool for removing them or do I simply beat them out?  (The BFI METHOD). I presume the bearing is readily available, but would also appreciate sources or alternative numbers. 
Before I go to knock out the inner race etc, how do you get these things ou as the lip in the wheel is tiny?

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14 minutes ago, LangleyMalc said:

I have just pulled the front forks on my 04 Ballabio and on checking the front wheel bearings found one was sticky and the other distinctly lumpy so they need to be replaced. Marked up as NSK 6205 DU. Is there an approved method or tool for removing them or do I simply beat them out?  (The BFI METHOD). I presume the bearing is readily available, but would also appreciate sources or alternative numbers. 
Before I go to knock out the inner race etc, how do you get these things ou as the lip in the wheel is tiny?

Drift them out. One end of the bearing spacer usually has a relief/notch in it so you can get the edge of a drift onto the inner race edge on one side. Once you get the bearing to move a little then the spacer loosens up a little and you can get more purchase on the inner race with the drift and keep it going. Support the wheel on the hub not the rim or tyre to get maximum impact force into the bearing.

Sometimes the spacer is a little short and you can lever it sideways to gain purchase on the inner race. These are generally the wheels that have short bearing life.

Ciao     

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Maybe a little heat?

 

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I just took a look and there does not seem to be a relief notch!  The Spacer is very close to the diameter of the inside of the inner race and is very slightly lose and can be turned slightly: as a consequence it is very difficult to get decent purchase on the inner race with the drift. It just slides off and I cannot see how to get a regular-puller anywhere near it. 
I popped off a dust cover and the bearing was full of red brown crap so they have to come out. 
the next attempt will be with a little heat, but for that I will have to take of the discs. 
Is it possible to drive one bearing down to get the other side started?

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2 hours ago, LangleyMalc said:

I just took a look and there does not seem to be a relief notch!  The Spacer is very close to the diameter of the inside of the inner race and is very slightly lose and can be turned slightly: as a consequence it is very difficult to get decent purchase on the inner race with the drift. It just slides off and I cannot see how to get a regular-puller anywhere near it. 
I popped off a dust cover and the bearing was full of red brown crap so they have to come out. 
the next attempt will be with a little heat, but for that I will have to take of the discs. 
Is it possible to drive one bearing down to get the other side started?

Sometimes a large flat blade driver with the shaft through the handle can work as you lever the spacer aside as much as possible and drift it. Heat doesnt hurt but its not super effective as the heat transfers just as fast to the outer bearing race and it expands as well and the heat you're putting into the hub with a heat gun and not burning the wheel paint etc is not so large to make the differential expansion that big.

A 15mm steel drift with a sharp end edge and levered hard across usually works but its no walk in the park sometimes. Of course when you get it out the other end is easy and then you grind/file a notch in one end of the spacer for next time. Even if you can get the bearing to move 1mm it opens up the ease of removal.

The next step is to break apart the bearing cage and load all the balls to one side and see if the inner will come out and then pull the spacer and drift out the other side. Then you run a single bead of stick weld around the inner dia of the outer race and when it cools the outer race will fall out.

The other method is to spot weld a bolt to the inner race with a stick welder then drift it out from the other side using the bolt to hit against 

Ciao 

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I've used the Pit Posse Wheel Bearing Remover. You insert a split cylinder, then drive in a wedge to grip the inside of the bearing. Then you just pop it out with a hammer. Very efficient. Fun, even. 

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1 minute ago, Scud said:

I've used the Pit Posse Wheel Bearing Remover. You insert a split cylinder, then drive in a wedge to grip the inside of the bearing. Then you just pop it out with a hammer. Very efficient. Fun, even. 

:thumbsup: on the Pit Posse. https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B004MAPN42 

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Thanks guys,

Ive ordered up a blind bearing puller and I shall see what that does before resorting to the welder!  Will report back. 

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2 hours ago, Scud said:

I've used the Pit Posse Wheel Bearing Remover. You insert a split cylinder, then drive in a wedge to grip the inside of the bearing. Then you just pop it out with a hammer. Very efficient. Fun, even. 

I watched a youtube video and it looked to good to be true. Reminded me of those manufacturers instructional videos where the component literally just about falls apart in your hand but the reality is a whole lot different. Any more details on this tool scud. I mean did you give it a real testing bearing to pull? say like on the difficulty scale of a Guzzi v11 swingarm pivot bearing.

Ciao    

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8 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

 . . . say like on the difficulty scale of a Guzzi v11 swingarm pivot bearing 

V11 swingarm bearings . . .  > groan < . . .

IMG_2685.JPG

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I've picked up a blind bearing puller kit to hopefully aid in the event that I ever have to pull the wheel bearings from one of my guzzi wheels.

I've never actually pulled a bearing from one of these wheels, but after extensive reading on the subject, one caution that I've read numerous times in order to prevent permanent damage to the wheel hub if the job doesn't go easily; is to preheat the hub area of the wheel, then apply cold rapidly to the bearing/race with something like computer Dust Off spray, just before you tackle it.fwiw.

Following this thread with keen interest.

Good Luck

Kelly

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A friend brought a swingarm to me because he couldn't get the bearing out. I brought out my blind bearing puller and tackled it with a grin.

I couldn't get it out, either. :rasta:

I ended up welding a (don't remember) nut or bolt on the bearing and jacking it out. Nasty job, probably took an hour.

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Thanks for the encouragement Chuck. 👍

I retired this year and was wondering somewhat aimlessly what I was going to do with my time. Now I know having discovered Guzzi’s answer to the Marquis de Sade which is motorcycle maintenance. 
while waiting for the arrival of my blind puller from Amazon, (2 day delivery even up here), I thought I would follow the tech list - things to do when the wheels are off.  So on the final drive I checked and greased the needle roller which was in great condition and found the spacer and washer✔️  Then I decided to grease the prop shaft as I was on a roll. Got grease into the spline nipple and then with some difficulty greased the bottom UJ. Then went to find the top UJ nipple which, according to the diag. Is supposed to be behind the gearbox. 
Behind the gearbox is also behind the foot peg and rear brake hanger and under a shield plus blocked off from the bottom by the exhaust cross over. I tried to get the three bolts out of the cover over the UJ but could not easily get the third one. 
so before I disassemble half the back of the bike Am I  missing something here or is this really going to form a large part of my winter retirement projects.

Don’t get me wrong I am enjoying re-acquainting myself with the joys of bike maintenance, however it does raise two questions:

How are you supposed to the top grease nipple?

and if I had sent this to the dealer for service what chance is there that they would do this anyway?  My guess is “no chance” as it would fall in the too time consuming and out of sight box.

 

 

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Re the pullers, I've never actually used a blind puller, but I do have one old HUGE OTC Silver Slapper slide hammer puller with a variety of good quality arms and attachments, if I can get that thing into position with good purchase on the material; I'm confident I can pull anything out,,, now damage free without carnage,,, not so sure about that, ;~) lol.

Re the grease nipple on the U-Joints, I've never done it but I've read lots of horror stories.

Fwiw, I just finished servicing my tractor, part of that job included greasing the U-Joints on the PTO shaft, 2 of the grease nipples I was able to get with a straight tip on the grease gun, but there were 2 others, absolutely no way.

Thankfully quite  a while ago I had purchased 2 different 90 degree angle tips for my grease guns,the first one I tried didn't work, but the 2nd one (designed to slide in sideways in a slot), if I held it just right, managed to work and get grease into the joint.

It sounds like you may have a tough time getting a straight shot at this hidden nipple on the U-Joint on the driveshaft, you may want to pick a 90 degree fitting or something similar to give you a better chance at it.

Good Luck

Kelly 

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