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Throttle body airboots R & R


gstallons

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I am going to replace the rubber boots on the throttle bodies on my 03 bike . Before I start , I would like advice , hot tips or anything to aid in this procedure . TIA !

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Those things, especially new, are mighty stiff going on. Use P-80 Emulsion Temporary Rubber Assembly Lubricant . . .

s-l640.jpg

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11 minutes ago, gstallons said:

I am going to replace the rubber boots on the throttle bodies on my 03 bike . Before I start , I would like advice , hot tips or anything to aid in this procedure . TIA !

Its easier to fit the manifolds to the throttle bodies and then bolt the whole lot to the heads.

Ciao

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I leave the boots in real hot water for a bit,, and use a dishwashing liquid  called Zalo over here,, some green stuff from the misses dep.  :rasta:

Cheers tom.

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I am going to replace the rubber boots on the throttle bodies on my 03 bike . Before I start , I would like advice , hot tips or anything to aid in this procedure . TIA !

I’ve just replaced all four boots with no special treatment. A small amount of silicone grease or green soap wouldn’t harm. Good luck!


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The question I am going for , I can't get the throttle bodies back far enough to install the new boots . I need to know the procedure . Do I disassemble , bend or break ?

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I can't recall for sure, but I think you can loosen the airbox boots first, and push them inwards to the airbox. If so, there should be space enough to pull the TB's out of the boots on the cylinder. If not, you may have to remove the airbox. I did that.

I guess users with much more experience than me would chime in.

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Hey Chuck,      I agree with Pete; there is something about guzzis and air boxes & filters, Mandello has perfected the art of building motorcycles around them since 1921, lol.

     I was initiated on the Tonti cylinder style air filter on my CX100, I fought to change the filter, said screw this (like many others) and put on K&N's.

     Tonti, Spine, CARC they're all a pita in their own special unique way  ;~) lol.

     Re the topic at hand, depending on the rubber part and location, I've used silicon grease, WD40 and Armor All, but as someone has already mentioned, heat works wonders, just like changing a tire,,, soft and pliable beats cold and stiff every time.

     Good luck with it

     Kelly

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I have some big hunker channel locks. With them, you can get enough leverage to re install them. Barely. All the above help, too.

Lacking the big hunker channel locks, some orthodontia may help..:rasta:

IMG_20180908_091859823_HDR.jpg

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13 minutes ago, Chuck said:

I have some big hunker channel locks. With them, you can get enough leverage to re install them. Barely. All the above help, too.

Lacking the big hunker channel locks, some orthodontia may help..:rasta:

IMG_20180908_091859823_HDR.jpg

Might as well ad fuel tank going back with the same force  :rasta:  Had a not planned stop, in a lousy place of course after fitting new boots. The one that came of,, was easy to fit back,, ehh warm enough.   Retighten was the point.

Cheers tom.

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I used a razor blade to remove the old boots . After getting them off and out of the way , I see the r.h. injector has not been spraying fuel . For now , I am looking to see which wires trigger each injector . I am going to manually trigger them to see the injector ( or lack of ) spray pattern .  

Then on to step 2 and beyond . It is now a matter of triggering each injector to get a good look at the spray pattern . The l.h. side is flooding and the r.h. side is the opposite . If I were smart enough to put the pics of things , you could see my problem .  

Now I am going to need advice on how to remove the injectors to send to a fuel injector service for repairs ! 

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