Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Quick reply, between the shovers, still struggling with the Ti ECU:rasta:.  Just tried with a new TPS, battery needed some juice, wouldn't even fire. I need to go for a little ride, to cool down. Later.

 Cheers tom 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Decided it was the day to play with maps and tuning. Did the Decent Tune Up route a few weeks ago and valves to 0.007/0.009", idle bypass full closed. Coppa with Ti mufflers and front crossover.

The factory settings are .1 and .15 and most run .15 and .2 which is within reason. Running .25 on the inlet is +150% of the factory specs. It's all very well talking about CO readings and how well it

I had everything except his valve clearances. 157 mv TPS, new plugs, fresh carb balance, bypass screws closed.

Posted Images

Hi, 

1 hour ago, docc said:

I am uncertain, now: Is the TPS baseline target 156 mV or 157 mV?

it's 156.25mV or, if total accuracy is targeted, 8*(5/256) with as many decimals as can be successfully measured. 

Much success
Meinolf

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, gstallons said:

Now , lemme get this straight ............ 0.157v at absolute closed throttle blade . Min. idle screw backed out , no choke linkage interference , balance link disconnected . With all this ok , adjust your TPS to 0.157v .

No________ go back through your procedure and make it so . 

If all this is true. Reconnect your balance shaft and adjust your min idle adjustment screw to 0.540v . 

Yep.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Few miles test ride today, No, about same behavior, so inn with the other Meinolf mapped ECU. Another full tuning, and then no firing at all, 1bang from right muffler.
No spark,, I did ohm the almost new sensor from TLM 0.0, shit. The old one shoved 644.
Next goal, correct distanse, was it more preferable at the upper end, 0.8 - 0.9mm ?
Sensor lenght was 29.95mm, all I have in shims is 0.7 and 0.9mm.
More spear parts.
Cheers Tom
6048a091c375486098772829626d2863.jpg9b2f0efc499d829b16911c68675bfad7.jpg2f0c215ac8a14560db96db08030be8a9.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

My suggestion is tighten up the valve clearances, .007 and .009 is too much. Even going from .10/.15 to .15/.20 made starting harder. Just a suggestion. I'd actually go back to the factory settings of .1 and .15 just to compare and then if the difference is profound you can either stick with it or go .15/.20 again.

When chasing issues it's always best to revert to factory settings and at least get a baseline again. You can always revert if you wnat to.

Ciao

Link to post
Share on other sites

Correct distance, and easyly made in an afternoon in my friends shed, and a couple of useful tools for the Øhlins.
Did the measure tonight and ended up with 0.85mm clearence and good spark again.
Have to go riding with a friend tomorrow, meaning that will be nice, but can't wait to see how she behave now.
I am listening to the SB mech from down under to, so when I get her straight, curious as usual, I will reduce my valve clearenses a few times, CURIOUS, and my own experiences. ( like the Carb tune)
Cheers Tom 1b72ebb66cf074a26b19f1ad9086dea4.jpg2d8c84761e3d8be94af0df31621746ad.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, Tomchri said:

Correct distance, and easyly made in an afternoon in my friends shed, and a couple of useful tools for the Øhlins.
Did the measure tonight and ended up with 0.85mm clearence and good spark again.
Have to go riding with a friend tomorrow, meaning that will be nice, but can't wait to see how she behave now.
I am listening to the SB mech from down under to, so when I get her straight, curious as usual, I will reduce my valve clearenses a few times, CURIOUS, and my own experiences. ( like the Carb tune)
Cheers Tom 1b72ebb66cf074a26b19f1ad9086dea4.jpg2d8c84761e3d8be94af0df31621746ad.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
 

Nice cam sensor tool. I assume the projection slides in and out of the body and is held by a lock screw to get the depth? Although how do you get the depth measurement?  Even using a vernier is tricky with the engine on the bench and impossible with it in the frame. Might need to make me one of those in aluminium. I also made an Ohlins fork cap toll about 25 years ago, I'll dig out the image. 

Here it is.

DSC01050.JPG

DSC01049.JPG

Ciao 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Always different measures with the vernier. Aircraft alu, 10mm steel rod, and clearece finished with Dormer brosh (reamer,or ), and a lock nut. Never liked the thought of putting anything down that hole, be it JB or.

Cheers tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Nice cam sensor tool. I assume the projection slides in and out of the body and is held by a lock screw to get the depth? Although how do you get the depth measurement?  Even using a vernier is tricky with the engine on the bench and impossible with it in the frame. Might need to make me one of those in aluminium. I also made an Ohlins fork cap toll about 25 years ago, I'll dig out the image. 

Here it is.

DSC01050.JPG

DSC01049.JPG

Ciao 

Looks even more refined, we didn't bather with the 1/2 square, since it's only handtight,,, made a 10mm hole straight  thru thou .  Why didn't I show that with a picture :rasta:

Cheers tom

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Tomchri said:

Looks even more refined, we didn't bather with the 1/2 square, since it's only handtight,,, made a 10mm hole straight  thru thou .  Why didn't I show that with a picture :rasta:

Cheers tom

I dont understand what surface the depth tool rests on with regards to the crankcase surface. It appears to have a tapered shoulder that rests against the edge of the oring opening, is this correct. If so what flat face do you measure against to get the depth? I would have a flat face on the body of the tool that sat flush against the crankcase face that the sensor plate and shims bolts to then after setting the depth measure from that face to the end of the body and and from the depth projection to the end of the body and subtract the difference to get the reading.

Ciao

Link to post
Share on other sites

It rest on the flat surface on the crankcase. Works good.
Cheers Tom 195510d0f0b77d3c7edf593f4cf24ac6.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Øhlins tool, with the 10mm hole on the side, if a little help needed.
Cheers Tom e1b3a279e83f0836301aac17d9bf0d72.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

0.85mm
Cheers Tom 86d9632d5d2b208d6bdfe9178a9c6044.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Tomchri said:

It rest on the flat surface on the crankcase. Works good.
Cheers Tom 195510d0f0b77d3c7edf593f4cf24ac6.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk
 

Ha, ok I was imagining it was used from the other direction,Doh. Thats why the knurling is where it is. Sometimes my dumbness amazes even me.

Ciao

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Ha, ok I was imagining it was used from the other direction,Doh. Thats why the knurling is where it is. Sometimes my dumbness amazes even me.

Ciao

I definitely need all the help I can get :rasta: happy to come back with something. Greenie is running,,,, But very wet outside,,, and it's Friday.

 Cheers tom 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...