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5 hours ago, fotoguzzi said:

Lucky Phil would know. Hopefully he'll be along soon.

I'm thinking it would the only issue i see is the length of the remote reservoir hose and the overall shock length eye to eye. I can measure a std V11 shock for those things if needs be. 310mm rings a bell eye to eye.

Ciao 

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As I recall a common thing with aftermarket shocks was to make them like 5 or 10 mm or so longer than the original shock eye to eye. More than that can cause issues with the drive shaft.

As long as the shock is no more than 10 mm or so longer than the stock shock you should be good.

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Here is some info specific to Ohlins, but may help in cross referencing:

 

 

I thought we had a FAQ on rear shock replacements, but doesn't look like it.

Another popular and slightly less expensive option some years ago was Penske, and as I recall many owners liked it it better than Ohlins for a variety of reasons.

You might check with other manufacturers like Fox as well to see if they have something that fits.

And of course I see used V11 Sport/LeMans Sachs shocks on eBay all the time...

 

 

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Thanks, MartyNZ!  Here are images from the last two of those threads:

wambiker, 2006:shock2.jpgshock1.jpg

Martin Barrett, 2005:128_2806.jpg

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1 hour ago, docc said:

Thanks, MartyNZ!  Here are images from the last two of those threads:

wambiker, 2006:shock2.jpgshock1.jpg

Martin Barrett, 2005:128_2806.jpg

Goodness me no wonder the rear eye broke, look at all that corrosion. I have one of these original shocks but have not tried to sell it because i wouldn't feel right knowing they tend to fail like this but these images have got me wondering if corrosion is a major contributor to the failures. Anyone else had failures without corrosion involved?

Ciao

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32 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Goodness me no wonder the rear eye broke, look at all that corrosion. I have one of these original shocks but have not tried to sell it because i wouldn't feel right knowing they tend to fail like this but these images have got me wondering if corrosion is a major contributor to the failures. Anyone else had failures without corrosion involved?

Ciao

Well, this made me look at the Sachs that came off my Sport after 49,000 miles/ 79.000 km/ 7 years. I believe both the images above are from V11 in the UK. What I realized is there is a substantial, grooved "bush" inside the eye that contacts the actual pivot bolt. So, the thinking that a well greased pivot bolt would be preventive seems rather circumspect. The corrosion shown would be between the alloy eye and the pressed-in steel bush. Not at all sure how to prevent corrosion in that space . . . :huh2:

IMG_2929.jpg

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20 minutes ago, docc said:

Well, this made me look at the Sachs that came off my Sport after 49,000 miles/ 79.000 km/ 7 years. I believe both the images above are from V11 in the UK. What I realized is there is a substantial, grooved "bush" inside the eye that contacts the actual pivot bolt. So, the thinking that a well greased pivot bolt would be preventive seems rather circumspect. The corrosion shown would be between the alloy eye and the pressed-in steel bush. Not at all sure how to prevent corrosion in that space . . . :huh2:

IMG_2929.jpg

Not riding on salt covered roads would help docc as would an occasional spray on the id of the eye with some protective stuff like CorrosionX :) to keep the water out.

Maybe there isn't a fatigue issue with the original eye it's just it's not too tolerant to some maintenance and or environment stuff.

Ciao

Ciao 

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Looking at the cracked shock that I've just removed from my bike I too am not sure how this can be prevented, the corrosion that breaks the eye is between the steel outer bush and the alloy eye, why isn't it stainless steel? 

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51 minutes ago, Steve S said:

Looking at the cracked shock that I've just removed from my bike I too am not sure how this can be prevented, the corrosion that breaks the eye is between the steel outer bush and the alloy eye, why isn't it stainless steel? 

Plenty of shocks use an alloy eye. What you can do is remove the shock and press out the bush and check the alloy bore with a dye check kit and refit the bush if all is well. Apart from that you can apply some basic corrosion preventative measures.

I might do this to my low mileage one and then I can sell it with a clear conscious 

Ciao

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I meant why don't they use a stainless bush, the bush is an interference fit in the eye so it's hard to see how water gets in and corrodes it anyway

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52 minutes ago, Steve S said:

I meant why don't they use a stainless bush, the bush is an interference fit in the eye so it's hard to see how water gets in and corrodes it anyway

You would be amazed at how moisture works its way into press fit joints over time. Thats why on aircraft bushed components are always protected by either sealant or regular applications of anti corrosion applications. It only takes a microscopic  defect at the interface for the corrosion to start then it works its way in like a tiny thread that weakens the alloy and it cracks.

Very common.

Ciao 

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I don't see why not. I use it on my heavy equipment. I used to use WD-40 and switched over to using boeshield and it works. When i need to work on it, i spray everything down with it and it seems to do a much better job then anything I've tried in the past 20+ years. i don't want to sound like an infomercial but i'd say grab a can and try it. It's not too expensive.

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