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No charge , broken stator wire


docc

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3 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Mmmm . If it is working , be happy . 

Yeah, well it would charge but run my battery down to 50% (~12.54 volts) just sitting overnight. :bbblll:

Seems that is an unacceptable electron leak. All good with the new stator and R/R. Just trying to keep us all aware what to watch for in this common area of concern.

This is my fourth R/R (the first two went about 30,000 miles/ 48.000 km and the third went 45,000 miles/ 72.500 km after grounding the case to the engine).

Third stator, but I have learned to be much more mindful removing and replacing the alternator cover because of connection strain. This latest ElectroSport has addressed that known issue as well as changing the weak "bullet" connectors to spade types (much more positive connection, it seems). :thumbsup:

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I have never bothered but you can buy wire that is tin plated, they use it on boats a lot so a marine store is a likely source.

I think it would stand up to the conditions in the alternator better,

 

Docc, can you give us the model No of your regulator so I can look up the connection, there might be something in the wiring instructions that pops out.

 

Roy

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1 hour ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

Docc, can you give us the model No of your regulator so I can look up the connection, there might be something in the wiring instructions that pops out.

Roy

My understanding it is the OEM for the 2000 V11 Sport:  Ducati Energia  343637

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On 8/7/2020 at 3:57 AM, Mikko said:

yeah, i mentioned that in another post. I upgrade all my wiring on equipment with tin plated marine wire. This company has it for the best price and in stock.

Marine Grade Wire

That must be where I read it.

I dont use tin plated wire but I always dip the wire in Vaseline before crimping, it keeps the copper bright.

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Docc,

          Are you sure its discharging, my V7iii will sit at 14.7 all day while riding but it drops to high 12s overnight even if disconnected.

Its risky trying to read the leakage current with a multimeter, very easy to blow the fuse in the meter then it will read zero for sure.

One method I use is to connect a small incandescent lamp in series with the meter on milliamp range it will act as a current limit to protect the meter fuse.

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I've always avoided reading amperage/current with my multi-meters for that reason. The lamp is a great trick I always forget about!

No doubt the batteries will discharge from charging level voltages after coming off a charger or being ridden. A healthy AGM looks to take 24 hours or more to fall off into the 90%+ range (12.75-12.84v).

When this stator failed, the battery had gone too dead to start the bike. After I repaired the stator and charged the battery, it fell off to ~50% overnight (not characteristic of this conditioned PC545 at all).  Disconnecting the red charge wire stopped the discharge. Replacing the regulator definitely stopped the discharge.

Testing resistance, I found continuity from the red charging wire to the regulator case/ground under 1k Ω.

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I had this same problem recently, that left me stranded a handful of miles from home.
Then it left me stranded again (after I fixed the wrong problem LOL).
Then it almost left me stranded a 3rd time when the fix (soldering job) decided to un-fix itself.
Finally, the stator was replaced and all was right in the world again.

The frustrating part of it was that the charging "idiot light" was true to its name, and acted like an idiot - either not lighting up at all, or briefly coming on and going out again a short time later. This, combined with my general disdain for idiot lights, prompted me to wire up a compact volt meter I got from Aerostitch. Hopefully, no more surprises in the future.

 

__Jason

IMG_9173.JPG

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