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Can't Get Guzzidiag to Connect to Bike!


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    You may want to read the latest tutorials on guzzidiag, before launching that driver.

    I'm reluctant to offer advice on something that I know so little of, but my understanding is, that if you install that chip driver you may have future conflicts with guzzdiag reader & writer.

    The guzzidiag reader that I downloaded and used to drive the chip showed up as a little red icon in the file name and was labelled "IAW15xReader_V0.67"

     Most definitely make sure your side stand is up and the switch closed. 

    fwiw

    good luck

    Kelly

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Not sure, I'm a bit of a computer Luddite I just know it's been faultless with me. I did however spend a LOT of time researching Guzzidiag on the wildguzzi forum and the Guzzi.de forum where the peopl

Yes.

The very first time I used GD on my Griso, I could see everything, but not connect with the ecu on the bike, I screwed around for 3-4 hrs, double checking everything, but it was only when I found the

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2 hours ago, 80CX100 said:

    You may want to read the latest tutorials on guzzidiag, before launching that driver.

   

I did.

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9 hours ago, mznyc said:

I will try,but what are the odds that all people who have had success connecting had it on a unicorn center-stand or a lift with the side stand up?

Not sure, I'm a bit of a computer Luddite I just know it's been faultless with me. I did however spend a LOT of time researching Guzzidiag on the wildguzzi forum and the Guzzi.de forum where the people that invented it live and there are quite a few connection issues resolved there. Mainly in the earlier iterations and for Apple users. 

Have a look at the guzzi tutorial thread on the Wildguzzi forum and start from page 1. It takes a while to read through but it's an education and will help.

The only things I have to add re connections are these, not from personal experience but just what comes to mind from research.

The black lead on the interface leads doesn't need to be connected to the battery. The ECU will provide the earth.

Dont connect the power and earth leads around the wrong way or you'll destroy the chipset in the leads.

Swapping computer ports can be the answer.

make sure you have the correct model bike loaded in Guzzidiag

Connecting the leads first and then launching the application can work

Erasing the guzzidiag programme and re down loading and re launching can work. 

make sure the battery voltage is ok or connect to battery charger.

Kill switch on.

I mostly pull the fuel pump fuse not for connection reasons but to stop the injectors sending a shot of fuel down the intakes every time I cycle the ignition.

I think thats about the extent of my knowledge on connection issues. 

 

 

Ciao

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12 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Not sure, I'm a bit of a computer Luddite I just know it's been faultless with me. I did however spend a LOT of time researching Guzzidiag on the wildguzzi forum and the Guzzi.de forum where the people that invented it live and there are quite a few connection issues resolved there. Mainly in the earlier iterations and for Apple users.

Have a look at the guzzi tutorial thread on the Wildguzzi forum and start from page 1. It takes a while to read through but it's an education and will help. I did read through the WG thread

The only things I have to add re connections are these, not from personal experience but just what comes to mind from research.

The black lead on the interface leads doesn't need to be connected to the battery. The ECU will provide the earth.I've tried with Neg attached to batt,I'll try off.

Dont connect the power and earth leads around the wrong way or you'll destroy the chipset in the leads. I haven't

Swapping computer ports can be the answer.Tried that

make sure you have the correct model bike loaded in Guzzidiag Did that.

Connecting the leads first and then launching the application can work Tried that

Erasing the guzzidiag programme and re down loading and re launching can work. Tried that.

make sure the battery voltage is ok or connect to battery charger. It's good

Kill switch on.Kill switch off.(Bike running)

I mostly pull the fuel pump fuse not for connection reasons but to stop the injectors sending a shot of fuel down the intakes every time I cycle the ignition.Haven't done that.

I think thats about the extent of my knowledge on connection issues. 

 

 

Ciao

Thanks Phil,made notes to yo suggestions....

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Kill switch on.Kill switch off.(Bike running)

I've never had the bike running at hookup. Don't know if that is an issue or not.

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1 minute ago, Chuck said:

I've never had the bike running at hookup. Don't know if that is an issue or not.

No Chuck.a a semantic clarification.I say Kill switch "off" means engine can run. Phil says kill switch 'off" means bike can't run....I'm not starting the bike,just noting what I call it.Neither is right or wrong,just clarifying definition...

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I like referring to that as the "Run" Switch. Interesting that it gets its current through the Sidestand Switch when the sidestand is up (stowed)  while rolling down the road in gear.  When the stand is down, the Run/Kill Switch gets its current through the gearbox Neutral Switch and Relay#3 (middle).

Any chance, mznyc, that circuit is blocking your Run Switch from working with the sidestand up, bike in neutral?

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8 minutes ago, docc said:

I like referring to that as the "Run" Switch. Interesting that it gets its current through the Sidestand Switch when the sidestand is up (stowed)  while rolling down the road in gear.  When the stand is down, the Run/Kill Switch gets its current through the gearbox Neutral Switch and Relay#3 (middle).

Any chance, mznyc, that circuit is blocking your Run Switch from working with the sidestand up, bike in neutral?

I've been trying with side stand down not even thinking about possibility it could affect connection but planning on trying,but as I mentioned before,for everyone who has had success they are doing it on a shop stand,centerstand or on a lift with sidestand up?...I find that unlikely.....yes bike in neutral

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Will the bike start and run in neutral with the stand down?

If so, your Run Switch is working fine on the Neutral Switch/relay circuit. There would be no benefit to using the Sidestand Switch instead.

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5 hours ago, docc said:

I like referring to that as the "Run" Switch. Interesting that it gets its current through the Sidestand Switch when the sidestand is up (stowed)  while rolling down the road in gear.  When the stand is down, the Run/Kill Switch gets its current through the gearbox Neutral Switch and Relay#3 (middle).

Any chance, mznyc, that circuit is blocking your Run Switch from working with the sidestand up, bike in neutral?

No,clutch has to be pulled in to override the switch

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That’s normal. The Clutch Switch only locks out the starter. Once running, it will run in neutral with the stand down? 

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37 minutes ago, docc said:

That’s normal. The Clutch Switch only locks out the starter. Once running, it will run in neutral with the stand down? 

Yes.

 

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Certainly does not sound like a problem with the Run Switch, then. I did learn from guzzidiag to leave the Run Switch on and use only the Ignition Switch to turn on and off.

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      Thinking out loud,

      Going over the basics, when connected is the blue indicator light on your Lonelec cable on and shining brightly? showing that you've got good connection and that the chip is working?

      That screen shot you posted of the FTDI CDM Driver file, just in case it's conflicting, if you can locate where that file was downloaded or moved to, delete it and hopefully all extensions, root files etc with whatever file management utility you have, Clean Sweep etc or possibly system tools? idk

       Verify your bike has the stock 15M or (15RC doubtful) ECU.

        Verify you've got the  GD 15x Reader file

         Connect and plug in Lonelec cable to the computer, bike & battery, does the light on the cable come on?

         right click 15x reader file, select open, then click read on the prompt (my port automatically selected)

         open GD verify preferences for your bike

         On GD click connect, if it prompts you to start the bike, start it,,, if it doesn't connect by itself click connect again, may have to try a few times giving it time to respond.

         If it doesn't connect, I left the bike running, closed GD, then launched it again and clicked on the connect button,,,, disregard instructions to turn the bike on, it's already running.

         If it still doesn't want to connect, just for shits and giggles while you're trying to connect, maybe wiggle some of the relays, I think #5 was one that people mentioned gave grief to a good running signal,,,, maybe try the same thing wiggling the Lonelec cable, clutch lever switch and wires, neutral switch wire, idk.

          If it still doesn't want to connect, leave cable connected, GD open, and turn off the bike's ignition switch, wait a moment for files to settle then start the bike and try to connect

         When you did this last exhaust job, was there any other work done that might have disturbed a wire or connection that might come into play?

         fwiw

         Kelly

         ps sorry for previously adding to all the SS confusion, I can't keep all the stupid safety switches straight, lol. I remember being flummoxed a couple of times when I couldn't get the V11 started because I forgot to pull the clutch in. I've never tested the V11, but on my CalVin, if I coast to a stop with the engine running, in neutral and put the SS down, the engine stays running,, but if I'm in gear, even with the clutch pulled in the engine will stop running.

         

              

      

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34 minutes ago, 80CX100 said:

      Thinking out loud,

      Going over the basics, when connected is the blue indicator light on your Lonelec cable on and shining brightly? showing that you've got good connection and that the chip is working?

      That screen shot you posted of the FTDI CDM Driver file, just in case it's conflicting, if you can locate where that file was downloaded or moved to, delete it and hopefully all extensions, root files etc with whatever file management utility you have, Clean Sweep etc or possibly system tools? idk

       Verify your bike has the stock 15M or (15RC doubtful) ECU.

        Verify you've got the  GD 15x Reader file

         Connect and plug in Lonelec cable to the computer, bike & battery, does the light on the cable come on?

         right click 15x reader file, select open, then click read on the prompt (my port automatically selected)

         open GD verify preferences for your bike

         On GD click connect, if it prompts you to start the bike, start it,,, if it doesn't connect by itself click connect again, may have to try a few times giving it time to respond.

         If it doesn't connect, I left the bike running, closed GD, then launched it again and clicked on the connect button,,,, disregard instructions to turn the bike on, it's already running.

         If it still doesn't want to connect, just for shits and giggles while you're trying to connect, maybe wiggle some of the relays, I think #5 was one that people mentioned gave grief to a good running signal,,,, maybe try the same thing wiggling the Lonelec cable, clutch lever switch and wires, neutral switch wire, idk.

          If it still doesn't want to connect, leave cable connected, GD open, and turn off the bike's ignition switch, wait a moment for files to settle then start the bike and try to connect

         When you did this last exhaust job, was there any other work done that might have disturbed a wire or connection that might come into play?

         fwiw

         Kelly

         ps sorry for previously adding to all the SS confusion, I can't keep all the stupid safety switches straight, lol. I remember being flummoxed a couple of times when I couldn't get the V11 started because I forgot to pull the clutch in. I've never tested the V11, but on my CalVin, if I coast to a stop with the engine running, in neutral and put the SS down, the engine stays running,, but if I'm in gear, even with the clutch pulled in the engine will stop running.

         

              

      

Correct me if I'm wrong with the OP's original issue but the Guzzidiag "reader" file has nothing to do with Guzzidia connecting. The "reader" file or software is for reading and downloading the ECU map file in a .bin format so that it can be read and manipulated in human format in Tunerpro as required. You then use the Guzzidiag writer to re write the modified maps.

The Guzzidiag software is a separate stand alone  software and allows you to see what parameters the ECU is seeing in real time and make adjustments to the CO for example on the 15m and on later ECU reset the throttle base setting and turn the closed and open loop on and off and also read and clear faults on all ecu's.

Ciao   

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