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Musical Relays


LowRyter

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Since both daviscr5 and Tom in Virginia have the later wiring, then the OP, LowRyter, likely has a different problem. Assuming the relays are high current OMRON G8HE, it could be that removing and replacing relays repeatedly has weakened the relay base connections. Again, Kiwi_Roy to the rescue:

 

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On 11/4/2020 at 6:05 PM, docc said:

Press to start and "nothing" can simply be the Clutch Safety Switch "bullet" connectors under the left side of the tank. They are notorious for locking out the start function.  Sometimes, this can be confirmed by holding in the clutch lever while keeping the start button pressed and rotating the bars back and forth. If the starter suddenly catches, it is likely a bad connection at those flinky bullet connectors.

thanks docc. I didn't know about that potential issue and will check it out.

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LowRyter , I would flip the relay holder over , remove the relays and snug up ALL the terminal connectors & do the same thing with the fuse holder . Install the grease of your choice and see what happens. Make all your work deliberate and record all your step by step work . 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/4/2020 at 6:05 PM, docc said:

Press to start and "nothing" can simply be the Clutch Safety Switch "bullet" connectors under the left side of the tank. They are notorious for locking out the start function.  Sometimes, this can be confirmed by holding in the clutch lever while keeping the start button pressed and rotating the bars back and forth. If the starter suddenly catches, it is likely a bad connection at those flinky bullet connectors.

Thank you Docc!  I didn't consider that and will test it next time she's refusing to start:).

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On 11/6/2020 at 3:03 PM, docc said:

I would suggest opening the headlamp bucket and inspecting the 3-way H4 bub connector for heat damage.  I have also seen a damaged H4 bulb filament cause a short. Faulty Relay#2, or its connections underneath, is also worth checking.

You know docc, based on frequent usage of the high/low beam "flicker switch" to warn cage drivers of travel path (and preclude left hand turns in front of me) it's very possible that the headlight bulb connector could be suspect.  A burned fuse has occurred several times during underway travels where loss of tach, lights, etc. have occurred.  My only reluctance is in breaking into a virgin motorcycle (fairing, etc., etc., etc. to get to the bulb) :wacko: but since it's a V11 the time is coming (i.e., this winter) and cannot be put off any longer.  Thanks for the tip. :thumbsup:

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  • 4 months later...
On 11/7/2020 at 2:30 PM, gstallons said:

I did this as a preventative measure some time ago. I installed a larger relay into the circuit going to the starter solenoid .  This remove the load from the factory wiring harness , fuses or relays . The original wire to the starter solenoid activates the relay with the relay controlling the starter solenoid .  Pin 85 to ground , pin 30 to 12v , pin 86 to factory solenoid wire and pin 87 to the starter solenoid .

 I have done this on my 03 and I have done this on Ford farm tractors with Lucas starters . Any time you can make a Lucas anything work better...........

Did this today, probably missed the relay size 40 - 50 amp ?, 1 Omron originally doing the job, 2 must be better  :rasta:, or go see a tractor dealer for a 70amp ?  Missing a relay base, may be seeing a scrap yard tomorrow,  don't see that base will be available at any store tomorrow.  

Cheers Tom.

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9 minutes ago, Tomchri said:

Did this today, probably missed the relay size 40 - 50 amp ?, 1 Omron originally doing the job, 2 must be better  :rasta:, or go see a tractor dealer for a 70amp ?  Missing a relay base, may be seeing a scrap yard tomorrow,  don't see that base will be available at any store tomorrow.  

Cheers Tom.

My understanding is this additional Starter Relay is applicable to the later wiring harnesses (2002 on) that burden the Ignition Switch instead of the early V11 that rely on the (weaker) Relay#1 NC contact. (And why early V11 require a High Current OMRON in the 5-pin Position#1.)

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