Jump to content

Unbolt Frame Plate?


Purloined

Recommended Posts

9 minutes ago, Purloined said:

Emmylou is consoler-in-chief to multitudes. And for decades. She's not taken me up on invitations to hand-hold while I blunder through moto mechanical follies. I can't blame her for that and wouldn't ever. She does her thing. I hone my circus of the ridiculous. You have to pay to see her perform, here it's free. For good reason.

 

Docc, I was scrutinizing your image, the hub safety washer is an issue if you're removing the drive shaft/swing arm? Not an issue if it is possible to unfasten the plates one at a time and leave the drive train intact?

Yeah, that probably wasn't a great image to post, but it shows the frame side plates in all their dangling glory. No, the gearbox doesn't have to come out to get to the frame sideplates. Mine was out to get to that input hub failure.

Scud posted an excellent sequence, above. We'll all pop by for Step #7, after the paint . . . :bier:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Purloined, here's an image from the rear with the swingarm removed, and also the lower subframe (gearbox and swingarm intact). Gives you a view of how the frame sideplates are assembled

IMG_2740.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Step 7? That's adorable. We're skipping past to 9 or 10, the Irish Wake. Whiskey not beer. Celebratory? Plausible if putting someone out of their misery is an excuse for a party. You all can raise a glass in the aftermath of nonsense.

Times are tough; baby steps will get us through and I'm an enthusiastic supporter.  

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Docc,

The images you posted are edifying.

Things you think might be simple prove otherwise.

A big help in understanding the arcane intricacies of the bike. 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dropping the swingarm is really pretty straightforward with the bike on a lift and a platform jack under the sump. That really is the only way I have found to actually and reliably grease the front U-joint on an early ShortFrame.

I know I've had my frame side plates off, but I really can't remember why. A fit of lunacy, perhaps. :blink:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

docc,

I'm on the periphery of making things up when it comes to infrastructure to dive into moto mechanics. I've done a lot beneath cars in driveways hoping the ad hoc scene doesn't bite down too hard while it went on. Getting that deep into the motorcycle would require a lot of ingenuity. 

What you and Scud describe and illustrate doesn't seem daunting.   Riding around Connecticut is a gobsmacking gauntlet of crazed idiots piloting enormous SUVs who dane to snear and look up from their texts when my bleating horn interrupts.    . . . They're streaking down I-95.  

 I've done a lot of riding over decades.    Early, stupid things moved on from are almost perilous to me when I think back on them.    But to this day,  I streak down roads where I'm at ease.       I rode a 1980 le Mans 10,000 miles cross country. I loved that trip and I loved that bike and it was ridiculously unsuitable. Decades since it got sold.   My 2000 green moto was a shaky introduction to something I expected would be familiar but wasn't. A little heart-stopping when I first got on it.   

 I've unbolted a lot of stuff, changed some things, sanded off the two-toned paint someone added and it's the red stilettos I now think should get painted. But I've read too many accounts of drive-train failures; one if I recall recounted by docc (highway underpass?) and the tumult astride the Connecticut Turnpike + drivetrain failure imagines = four doom stars and maybe I won't put it back together correctly, exactly.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and advice, if there's a step 7, there will be invitations.   

 I love looking at posts of different bikes from everywhere. It's not a simple share on this site, here's a link to a google drive/images:    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1We-Py_P2cP7dQQsWSCIh_f2MAe7hK-EX?usp=sharing

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember those great images in that, er, unlikely setting. Your red frame side plates don't look that bad! Some of the early red plates (on Sports with the finned exhaust flanges) faded to pink.  And, gosh, those Guzzi "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" canisters sound delicious!

Pretty sure I pulled my stiletto side plates after the 2003 crash to replace both the bent swingarm and cracked gearbox. In reality, they didn't need to come off even for that.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn’t like the red frame plates on my Scura. I found a set of grey ones and I did the switch at home with basic hand tools. It’s not that hard. I made measurements and marked the threads. She’s back together and I’ve not had any problems. My advice, pre soak any bolt you plan on removing and take all the time needed. I don’t work on my Moto for money, so I spent the better part of a Saturday doing it.

742-DC92-C-FF74-4995-9551-A41-EFCBA5-CF2

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Mikko said:

I didn’t like the red frame plates on my Scura. I found a set of grey ones and I did the switch at home with basic hand tools. It’s not that hard. I made measurements and marked the threads. She’s back together and I’ve not had any problems. My advice, pre soak any bolt you plan on removing and take all the time needed. I don’t work on my Moto for money, so I spent the better part of a Saturday doing it.

742-DC92-C-FF74-4995-9551-A41-EFCBA5-CF2

Looks good! So, jacked it up and took off one at a time, or?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s correct. As long as you support it and make sure the weight is off, it’s pretty easy. That big nut, you’ll want to mark/count the threads and when you bolt on the new one ( that marking paint I sent you @docc is what I used ) screw it down to the same point.  I haven’t had the bike to a shop since to check / adjust it for being perfectly square...

She seems no worse for wear and I ride it quite “sportingly” as my neighbors around the lake can begrudgingly agree. I’m sure they are happy with my more subdued exhaust also :)

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Off-road-use-only cylinder-exhaust; 'see-through pipes', sound about as perfect as I could imagine. Sound engineers are artists too. 

Mikko: Looking good. What I want. And yeah, that's got to be a bellicose pipe in your pic. Loud? Nice.  

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s actually a QD Exhaust I traded for. I did have a set of Ticon Industries race mufflers. Those are very loud and sounded super mean. This by contrast is not. I’m still thinking about the final system. I have a very rare pair of Tubi mufflers from Ghezzi and Brian sitting at home. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a pair of those pork chops from a Centauro, are they the same? Mine look like nice polished aluminum, not painted. If they fit you can buy them off me. Can get pics if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, fotoguzzi said:

I have a pair of those pork chops from a Centauro, are they the same? Mine look like nice polished aluminum, not painted. If they fit you can buy them off me. Can get pics if needed.

This is a good question! We did discover the center mounting plate from a Centauro does not fit the V11 since the driveline offset if different. Seems this would also affect the side plate configuration?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While on the subject of these frame plates,

What is the fastening torque for the bottom large 18mm nuts, that hold the bottom of the frame plate to the frame cross member behind the transmission?

I've been struggling to adapt my Becker Technik work stand from my Griso so it will work on my V11; I finally cut down some large deep well 18mm sockets and have fastened them to the BT stand and it looks like it will work, but the sockets are fixed tightly on the BT stand and don't rotate, I need something to rotate in order to use it.

My game plan is to loosen the large 18mm nuts 1 turn, so the nuts will spin slightly as the sockets and stand swing into position and lift the bike up; but that means that each time I use the stand I will have to re torque those large frame plate 18mm nuts, curious if anyone knows off the top of their head what that spec is?

I may have it buried in manuals someplace I haven't gone searching yet.

Tia

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...