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Later tanks and ethanol


Grim

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Hi, before i put the hammer down on an internal fuel pump/non-chin pad tank, does anyone have any opinion on that style of tank's ethanol hardiness?  

Are they also Acerbis? The inside looks "whiter" than the earlier tanks, but do they bubble and warp as badly?

 

I was contemplating making a smaller box tank from ally and just draping the top tank over it like a shell, but this is like £700, I could put a late tank on for £400.

 

Thanks gents

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My understanding is that both the early/chin-pad/external pump&filter short tank and the later/internal componentry long tank are both Acerbis roto-molded polyamide ("Nylon"-like polymer).

We are fortunate to have members that have experience with both tanks. @Lucky Philcomes to mind . . .

 

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Thanks... wishful thinking on my part.  My "new" tank is now starting to go, it was fine, then all of a sudden it was really hard to get back on, and now I can see small bubbles starting on the top.... 

Although the £700 I was quoted was for the entire job through a professional outfit, I do have the opportunity for a friend to weld an ally tank for free, he just wants me to make the net and cut the sheet metal first.  Seems a big job no?  Will lose a bit of capacity.

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Grim said:

Thanks... wishful thinking on my part.  My "new" tank is now starting to go, it was fine, then all of a sudden it was really hard to get back on, and now I can see small bubbles starting on the top.... 

Although the £700 I was quoted was for the entire job through a professional outfit, I do have the opportunity for a friend to weld an ally tank for free, he just wants me to make the net and cut the sheet metal first.  Seems a big job no?  Will lose a bit of capacity.

I'd go with the alloy tank option.

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16 minutes ago, Grim said:

Thanks... wishful thinking on my part.  My "new" tank is now starting to go, it was fine, then all of a sudden it was really hard to get back on, and now I can see small bubbles starting on the top.... 

Although the £700 I was quoted was for the entire job through a professional outfit, I do have the opportunity for a friend to weld an ally tank for free, he just wants me to make the net and cut the sheet metal first.  Seems a big job no?  Will lose a bit of capacity.

 

 

I'm guessing your 2003 Sport is a "carry-over" '02 with short chin-pad tank and white face Veglia clocks?

That would still be a LongFrame, so the long tank would still fit.

edit: Okay, yeah, I remember your Sport! :thumbsup:

4lgPTbF.jpg

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4 minutes ago, docc said:

I'm guessing your 2003 Sport is a "carry-over" '02 with short chin-pad tank and white face Veglia clocks?

It must be a bitsa... 

Yes, long frame, short tank, black ITI clocks.. it's like I got the worst of everything!!

 

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6 minutes ago, swooshdave said:

I'd go with the alloy tank option.

It's starting to look like a good long term option, hey we could alway sell them if it fits nice!!

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If I could get a replica aluminum tank like this one for under $2k I'd do it.

IMG_1148.JPG

 

I personally wouldn't like a tank under a false cover on the V11.

The next route for me would be a standard tank dried out and sealed internally. It should not expand or bubble after that and any fitment problem that may still exist, make adjustments to the frame mounts.

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54 minutes ago, footgoose said:

 

I personally wouldn't like a tank under a false cover on the V11.

Yeah a full ally tank would be the holy grail, there are a few places in the UK, I've called/emailed alot of them and they either don't want to do it or it would be prohibitively expensive, or they don't answer.

What are your reasons for disliking a false cover? Just personal preference or do you foresee some V11 specific problem?

 

I have looked at sealing, too many horror stories of it coming off and going into the fuel lines. Some folks were adamant that the nylon of the V11 tank was to slippery for a seal to get a good hold on, even when agitated with nails etc

Perhaps if a garage did it and would guarantee the seal? 

.

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yeah just personal preference. No functional problems. I guess I don't like esthetic "covers" in general. Though it would certainly solve the problem.

I'm lucky with my tanks I don't need to pursue the sealant route to find out. I'd certainly have to feel good about the process before doing it.

I don't recall seeing any bubbling on early tanks, only later ones. Anybody out there have bubble experience? This also has me thinking about the process of mfg of these tanks. Why some bubble, some not. Thickness of material throughout can't be consistent.

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7 minutes ago, footgoose said:

Just buy one and get it over with Docc:helmet:

If I could have just one other Moto Guzzi . . .

hdO2PiJ.jpg

I've seen very few early V11 tanks bubble their paint, and that is usually low on the "panniers" where the moisture would accumulate the most. The worst have been those V11 with extensive "decals" clearcoated onto the tank paint (Rosso and Nero Corsa). I'm not sure what those decals are (polyehtylene sheet?), but they certainly trap any outgassing that might otherwise work its way out of the tank material and its paint.

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2 hours ago, footgoose said:

If I could get a replica aluminum tank like this one for under $2k I'd do it.

IMG_1148.JPG

 

I personally wouldn't like a tank under a false cover on the V11.

The next route for me would be a standard tank dried out and sealed internally. It should not expand or bubble after that and any fitment problem that may still exist, make adjustments to the frame mounts.

I know Tankshop in the UK used to do these tanks years ago for external fuel pump bikes. Worth a shot. They were pricy however hand made. Worth a shot to see if they're still banging out tanks. 

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I had my "new" internal pump tank professionally lined before i had it wrapped in carbon fiber. It wasn't the cheapest option:

11-A1-D059-FDD3-4872-9807-B0-CB5-CC5-B14

This is what it looks like inside:

4-FC8443-A-25-C8-41-F0-81-A8-E7729-FDF41

 

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