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How to read the TPS


red lion
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23 minutes ago, red lion said:

So  your saying that the caspers connector is more accurate then just using pins or wires. I think i will buy them.  thanks.

A connection is a connection. What the Caspers does is reduce the hassle and frustration. With a pair of multimeter terminals on the two loose ends, it is much much easier. 

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9 minutes ago, po18guy said:

A connection is a connection. What the Caspers does is reduce the hassle and frustration. With a pair of multimeter terminals on the two loose ends, it is much much easier. 

Agreed. It is a fiddly enough operation without fiddly connections (pinning and back-probing connections). The Break-out Harness reduces the fiddlinessness.

@po18guy's direct meter connections are brilliant and take out even more of the fiddly connections. :thumbsup:

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3 minutes ago, docc said:

Agreed. It is a fiddly enough operation without fiddly connections (pinning and back-probing connections). The Break-out Harness reduces the fiddlinessness.

@po18guy's direct meter connections are brilliant and take out even more of the fiddly connections. :thumbsup:

Considering how fussy this is to set the last thing you need is "spiked" wires to get your reading. Just add another layer of fussiness you don't need.

Ciao

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2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Considering how fussy this is to set the last thing you need is "spiked" wires to get your reading. Just add another layer of fussiness you don't need.

Ciao

I am such a spaz that I would be making sparks where sparks do not need to be.

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On 7/31/2021 at 11:35 AM, po18guy said:

I am such a spaz that I would be making sparks where sparks do not need to be.

No it probably wont be arcing (unless your doing something very dodgy) it's just fiddly enough without worrying about spiked connections creating variability or coming unspiked etc. If I was on a trip and needed to do it on the side of the road or something I'd do it but it wouldn't be my first choice in the way I approached it. 

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On 7/30/2021 at 5:52 PM, red lion said:

So  your saying that the caspers connector is more accurate then just using pins or wires. I think i will buy them.  thanks.

With regard to accuracy, it occurred to me that the cheap meter I carry on the Sport is fine to check battery voltage or continuity (+/- 0.2 volts), but not nearly accurate enough to set the TPS baseline  (+/- 0.003 volts?)

@red lion, I wonder if your reading is more a limit of your voltmeter and not an actual TPS fault . . .

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On 7/30/2021 at 5:42 PM, Paradiso said:

A few days back I checked my TPS reading using a 'Caspers' connector I'd bought some time ago, but not used. It read 196-I'd set it some time ago using pins, but I thought it was closer to 150 than that. I adjusted it to 157 and had a test ride. It made a dramatic difference to smooth running, particularly at lower revs.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 

I've decided I want to finally include this TPS review as the final step in my tune up/work done these past couple of months and plan to also use the Caspers connector cable that had been recommended here, but I am completely puzzled exactly how do you "adjust" the TPS.  I don't see any screw or place to adjust the TPS per se looking at my bike.

What screw exactly is it that is used to adjust the TPS (anyone have a photo?), and given how "sensitive" this TPS seems to be, this has to be a micro screw somewhere, not a large one on the throttle bodies I am guessing.

Thanks again!

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1 hour ago, PJPR01 said:

I've decided I want to finally include this TPS review as the final step in my tune up/work done these past couple of months and plan to also use the Caspers connector cable that had been recommended here, but I am completely puzzled exactly how do you "adjust" the TPS.  I don't see any screw or place to adjust the TPS per se looking at my bike.

What screw exactly is it that is used to adjust the TPS (anyone have a photo?), and given how "sensitive" this TPS seems to be, this has to be a micro screw somewhere, not a large one on the throttle bodies I am guessing.

Thanks again!

Oh, no, the TPS adjustment sucks much more than a simple screw. There must be nine steps to get it right.  But worth it. 

See Step#2 of the Decent Tune-up for insights. (FWIW, the TPS is Step#2, not the "Final Step."

I should add an image of the TPS fasteners (thanks for asking) . . . [edit:done]

 

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To do a TPS adjustment, you need to loosen the 2 screws that fasten it to the throttle body and rotate it until you read your desired output - 157mV. It's pretty sensitive, we are talking micro adjustment here. Only loosen the screws enough to allow rotation while maintaining some tension. Your output might jump around when you tighten the screws back so you might need to rinse and repeat until locked in.

And definetely read and follow docc procedure in Decent Tune-up: 

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19610-decent-tune-up/

 

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1 hour ago, PJPR01 said:

What screw exactly is it that is used to adjust the TPS (anyone have a photo?)

 

20 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:

To do a TPS adjustment, you need to loosen the 2 screws that fasten it to the throttle body and rotate it until you read your desired output - 157mV. It's pretty sensitive, we are talking micro adjustment here. Only loosen the screws enough to allow rotation while maintaining some tension. Your output might jump around when you tighten the screws back so you might need to rinse and repeat until locked in.

And definetely read and follow docc procedure in Decent Tune-up: 

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19610-decent-tune-up/

 

Thanks to @PJPR01 for asking. This image has been added to the "Decent Tune-up", Step#2, to help identify the two fasteners that secure, and adjust, the TPS:
IMG_7650.jpg

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Thanks Docc!  So you’re saying that just by loosening and then tightening those two screws that seat the TPS that is in effect what is used to “adjust” the TPS to 157 mv by “ rotating the black head”?

I guess that’s what has been confusing me when reading and subsequently skipping that step #2 always.

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10 hours ago, PJPR01 said:

Thanks Docc!  So you’re saying that just by loosening and then tightening those two screws that seat the TPS that is in effect what is used to “adjust” the TPS to 157 mv by “ rotating the black head”?

I guess that’s what has been confusing me when reading and subsequently skipping that step #2 always.

The mounting ears of the "black head" are slotted such that the TPS rotates relative to the fully closed (as @gstallons emphasized) throttle plate. Pay special attention, in Step#2, to remove all of the aspects that can hold the throttle plate open even the slightest.  In fact, pressing the throttle plate tightly closed while setting the TPS, or "Zip-tying" it as @Lucky Phil has suggested, is absolutely worthwhile.

Only loosen the two fasteners enough to tap one of the mounting ears with something like the butt of a small screwdriver handle. Watch how much the reading changes with these tiny taps.  Tighten first one, then the other fastener while watching how much the reading changes. Keeping the fasteners as snug as possible helps minimize the tightening change, yet expect 0.030 volts or so. Always tighten the fasteners in the same order and amount and the reading change becomes very consistent.

At this point, use the "tap" method to compensate for the "tightening change" and, as @Speedfrog said, "rinse and repeat until it's locked in." :luigi:

 

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