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SOS In the shop,which is the fuel pump relay?


mznyc

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Working in the shop and dont have manual with me,forgot which relay drives the fuel pump,pump is not coming on,fuse is OK....

My last chance to sort before I go on a work trip for a month or so.....

Thanks!

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The very back relay, #5.

It is the most stressed relay in the stack, flowing 22.5 amps through the NO contact. Never good for the typical 20 amp micro-ISO relays commonly available.

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The fuse block can be pried up out of its rubber isolation blocks (the fasteners do not need to be loosened or removed) to reveal these flinky spade connectors to the front two fuses (Fuel/Igntion and ECU) . . .

gallery_328_223_160743.jpeg

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Thanks for the tip Docc,it appears to be the backside of the relay board,shake it,press it and she squirts an amazing amount of fuel on the garage floor....I've been lucky so far with not having this affliction,...oh well,...Can't recall who had the best fix/write up on this?...

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1 minute ago, mznyc said:

Thanks for the tip Docc,it appears to be the backside of the relay board,shake it,press it and she squirts an amazing amount of fuel on the garage floor....I've been lucky so far with not having this affliction,...oh well,...Can't recall who had the best fix/write up on this?...

 

 

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Pulled relay block,pushed all connectors in on FI relay,didn't to to have much play but put her back together and she's running as she should....I'll have to find a permanent fix as I'm sure it will fail at the worst place.....

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These were replaced by previous owner to Dan Pruske's relays(GEI AR4-012-C11S),don't know if that's the latest flavor of the day but they have been reliable...

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2 hours ago, mznyc said:

These were replaced by previous owner to Dan Pruske's relays(GEI AR4-012-C11S),don't know if that's the latest flavor of the day but they have been reliable...

Yep. Until now. Be aware you are running a 20 amp (and questionably rated) in a 22.5 amp circuit. 20 amp relays run really hot there (which will affect the connections adversely).

Source some OMRON G8HE (35 amp, and honestly rated).  Form A/ "1A7T" (4-pin) will work in all V11 positions except the Start Relay, front/#1. Seems onlinecomponents still has the Form A G8HE (High Current 4-pin). Otherwise, members are currently sourcing the 5-pin (Form C) through ebay. ---> OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12

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Ordered some 5-pin Ormon Form C relays so I'll update them when I get it and do a few local test rides to shake her down,but I least I know where to look if I don't hear fuel pump click...thanks!

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  • 1 year later...

Replaced all relays to new Ormon,just cuz,....NO FUEL PUMP...,I'll pull relay block again and see if working it a bit brings the pump back to life as it did before.

Where do I check to see if volts are getting to relay block and pump.Just want to make sure volts are coming from ECU and then past relay to pump...

Thanks!

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Check for voltage (ignition on/Run Switch on) to the Fuse 2 (from the front), then 5th (back) relay. I forget exactly which contacts, but if you probe all with a volt meter, you should find 12 volts.

The connections to the fuel pump are under rubber boots and easily checked for voltage unless your pump is on top of the spine, under the tank.

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On 11/2/2022 at 10:16 AM, mznyc said:

Replaced all relays to new Ormon,just cuz,....NO FUEL PUMP...,I'll pull relay block again and see if working it a bit brings the pump back to life as it did before.

Where do I check to see if volts are getting to relay block and pump.Just want to make sure volts are coming from ECU and then past relay to pump...

Thanks!

I had to disassemble the terminals from my relay board to tighten and DeOxit the terminals to eliminate the intermittent failures and ghosts. Resign yourself to the tedium and you'll be rewarded.

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