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RR Oil Dipstick/Thermometer...


VtwinStorm
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48 minutes ago, docc said:

This disparity would make me want to increase the rear tire pressure (within reason) and monitor the change in temperature.  On the contrary, perhaps the front pressure is too high and should be brought down a notch. A little of each? Or just of no practical consequence at all?

Could be Docc!  It's possible...I may experiment a bit.  On the Norge I like to run cold 40/40 psi both front and back, gives me the traction, mileage and tread wear life that I like.  I know some folks on their Norges or Stelvios like to run 36/40 or 34/38.  Have never had a blowout or any sort of tire failure, so I'm assuming it's always been this way.  Will be curious to see once the external temps drop down here in the next couple of months whether the temp differential remains the same or varies.  

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40 minutes ago, Chuck said:

I would think the 10% rule would apply..

You mean referring to pressure Chuck?

So, I'm running 40 psi cold, both of the tires increase to 43 or 44 psi when warm.  All good here on the PSI front...

:)

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10 minutes ago, PJPR01 said:

Could be Docc!  It's possible...I may experiment a bit.  On the Norge I like to run cold 40/40 psi both front and back, gives me the traction, mileage and tread wear life that I like.  I know some folks on their Norges or Stelvios like to run 36/40 or 34/38.  Have never had a blowout or any sort of tire failure, so I'm assuming it's always been this way.  Will be curious to see once the external temps drop down here in the next couple of months whether the temp differential remains the same or varies.  

I've got to agree with Chuck about the "10% (pressure change) Rule."  I also have relied on my trusted tire technicians to suggest that wear patterns might indicate a different pressure selection.

Also, a good exercise to remind us that, sometimes, too much information is, well, just too much information. Especially when it leads us to fuss over a system unnecessarily or change things that don't need changing. Or think about things while riding that could be distracting from our path of travel and reaction times . . .  :race:

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Totally forgotten to ask: Does the installation of the Roper Plate interfere with the dipstick/thermometer? Any clearance issues for those that have both installed on the same V11?

Just got my Roper Plate today. Shout-out to Pressure Angle for the fair price and fast shipping. Thank you!

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1 hour ago, VtwinStorm said:

Totally forgotten to ask: Does the installation of the Roper Plate interfere with the dipstick/thermometer? Any clearance issues for those that have both installed on the same V11?

Just got my Roper Plate today. Shout-out to Pressure Angle for the fair price and fast shipping. Thank you!

None...I have the Roper plate installed, no issues at all.

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18 minutes ago, PJPR01 said:

None...I have the Roper plate installed, no issues at all.

Thank you, PJPR01. I really prefer plug and play modifications and updates to my machines.

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If this has a polished chrome dipstick then I found that hard to read an oil level with the oil simply running down every time it's retracted and giving a false reading.

And how does one get a reading when it really matters, riding and in the saddle?

Chris.

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@Chris Wilson I sympathise, I also find the dipstick thermometer almost impossible to read. Mine isn't chrome possibly stainless.

I also have a Roper Plate installed on the bikes I have which tends to make it a little harder to insert the stick cleanly into the oil.

Previously I used a seperate dipstick when I wanted to get a good reading, sorry a pretty useless answer. Even using a flat metal or plastic stick, I never had too much faith on the accuracy of the readings. The Roper Plate makes it a little harder, but that could well be my lack of dexterity.

I've never had any issues with the bikes consuming oil between services, so I didn't dip it that regularly and when I did found it to be well within acceptable parameters

Later I realized that with the Roper Plate installed into a Broadsump the dipstick can be rendered redundant. All I do now after recommendations from @Lucky Phil , @pete roper and others on the Centauro forum, is to fill the sump to just below the Roper Plate. This put the oil a good bit above the OEM dipstick high mark. The oil level can be seen through the hole with a flashlight.

I've never experienced any pressurization issues, or additional oil consumption using the higher oil level and will continue to use it

Not much of answer but best I can do

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1 hour ago, Chris Wilson said:

If this has a polished chrome dipstick then I found that hard to read an oil level with the oil simply running down every time it's retracted and giving a false reading.

And how does one get a reading when it really matters, riding and in the saddle?

Chris.

As I understand, one is supposed to use the original, note it is full, then put in the thermometer dipstick and mark it with a scratch or a permanent marker at the "FULL" line. I will try this when I get my V11 back in the Spring.

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2 minutes ago, Weegie said:

@Chris Wilson I sympathise, I also find the dipstick thermometer almost impossible to read. Mine isn't chrome possibly stainless.

I also have a Roper Plate installed on the bikes I have which tends to make it a little harder to insert the stick cleanly into the oil.

Previously I used a seperate dipstick when I wanted to get a good reading, sorry a pretty useless answer. Even using a flat metal or plastic stick, I never had too much faith on the accuracy of the readings. The Roper Plate makes it a little harder, but that could well be my lack of dexterity.

I've never had any issues with the bikes consuming oil between services, so I didn't dip it that regularly and when I did found it to be well within acceptable parameters

Later I realized that with the Roper Plate installed into a Broadsump the dipstick can be rendered redundant. All I do now after recommendations from @Lucky Phil , @pete roper and others on the Centauro forum, is to fill the sump to just below the Roper Plate. This put the oil a good bit above the OEM dipstick high mark. The oil level can be seen through the hole with a flashlight.

I've never experienced any pressurization issues, or additional oil consumption using the higher oil level and will continue to use it

Not much of answer but best I can do

Great insight! Thank you, Weegie!

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Ever try to get an oil level that is parallel to a windage plate when you only have a side stand?

Even with one person on the bike and another with a strong light looking down the filler hole it's very difficult.

I find that an accurate dipstick the ONLY way to check a Bellagio's level by yourself short of using a cradle of some kind to hold the bike upright.

This is the main reason why I am not tempted with metallic rods as a dip gauge.

As noted, using the original as a true gauge is possible.

Chris.

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@VtwinStorm I tried using a Sharpie to mark upper and lower levels, but it never really worked for me, I hope you have better luck.

Using the a Roper Plate, which is a highly recommended, inexpensive and not too difficult mod to install when you're changing the oil is a good idea on its own.

It also solved all that dipstick m'larky for me too and I have plates on both the Sporti and HiCam.

I don't own a V11.........but there's still time ;)

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18 minutes ago, Weegie said:

@VtwinStorm I tried using a Sharpie to mark upper and lower levels, but it never really worked for me, I hope you have better luck.

Using the a Roper Plate, which is a highly recommended, inexpensive and not too difficult mod to install when you're changing the oil is a good idea on its own.

It also solved all that dipstick m'larky for me too and I have plates on both the Sporti and HiCam.

I don't own a V11.........but there's still time ;)

I am installing the Roper Plate this winter. It is a "must"...if it saves my oil pump from cavitation and my bearings from failure, it was well worth it!

I may just score the stick to make sure it is reading at true "FULL".

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