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OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 DC12V or Equivalent (CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R?)


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A stronger coil should lead to a better contact, If you look at the specs of a Normally Open contact you will see it has a higher rating than the Normally Closed contact, this would be a function of the contact pressure.

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52 minutes ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

A stronger coil should lead to a better contact, If you look at the specs of a Normally Open contact you will see it has a higher rating than the Normally Closed contact, this would be a function of the contact pressure.

This may be unknowable or, at best, theoretical, but will there be any practical difference in the V11 Relay#1 NC application between a 1.2 watt coil and a 1.5?

(I specify that relay’s NC contact because it is the only NC utilized with our V11 relays.)

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During a visit to a wrecking yard, I noticed that some Toyota cars had Denso relays the same size as the V11, so I added them to the cart. I will try them and report back. I expect good things, as Denso is a good brand, and a car electrical system is at least as demanding as a bike.

Relay 1000.jpg

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On 6/15/2022 at 1:40 PM, docc said:

This may be unknowable or, at best, theoretical, but will there be any practical difference in the V11 Relay#1 NC application between a 1.2 watt coil and a 1.5?

(I specify that relay’s NC contact because it is the only NC utilized with our V11 relays.)

A stronger coil might lead the manufacturer to use a stronger contact spring, if you look at the specs they have quite a good current rating but always less than the Normally Open contact.

If you look at all Carl's Guzzi drawings around that era only the 1999 VII Sport and the 2000 Quota put any significant current through the Normally Closed contact of the Start relay all the rest of the bikes (2000 Bassa, 2000 Jackal, 2002 Nevada, 2002 Stone & 2004 VII Catalytic) only use the Start relay N/C to switch the headlight Relay coil current ~100 milliamps there must have been a reason for that.

I know my 1999 would drop as much as 1 Volt between the battery and the Voltage regulator at times (normally ~0.5 Volt) which I blame for destroying the regulator. The charging current goes up exponentially with Voltage, I'm sure there are other bikes that switch the headlight current through the Normally Closed contact but I can't help thinking its a bad idea.

IMHO the Voltage reference for the regulator should be as true to the battery Voltage as possible, I always meant to try feeding the regulator reference from one of the lightly loaded ECU relay, I will never get around to doing that now.

Measure the battery Positive to the black wire at the regulator before then after wiggling the two relays in their sockets you will see what I mean.

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