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Old to new style tank swap


Grim
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Hi, anybody done this?  Is the connector for the level sensor on the old tank the same as for "everything" on the new tank or do i need to buy a specific connector?
I see the return is now next to the fuel tap on the same side, so the right hand injector return is supposed to go through the hole where the filter used to be? 

I did search, badly, couldnt find the right words to get the results I wanted -- story of my life!

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Installing this on your 2003 Sport?

That has the short (chin pad tank) on the LongFrame (IIRC?), so fitment should be fine. On the early, short RedFrame Sport the short tank already can be touched be the forks at lock. Pretty sure the 1999-2001 ShortFrame won't take the long tank without fork contact at lock, but you should be okay.

Good question on the wiring and connectors, not just fuel level sensor, though. Your external fuel pump wiring will have to connect to the internal pump of the Long Tank. As well as the fuel routing, as you say.  The later long tanks connect with those "Quick Disconnect" (misnomer??) while the earlier hoses have simple hose clamps.

Avoid using the throttle rod "tunnel" to route hoses and wiring as the throttle can be fouled and send you halfway to a bad day . . .

IMG_2757.jpg

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9 hours ago, docc said:

Installing this on your 2003 Sport?

That has the short (chin pad tank) on the LongFrame (IIRC?), so fitment should be fine. On the early, short RedFrame Sport the short tank already can be touched be the forks at lock. Pretty sure the 1999-2001 ShortFrame won't take the long tank without fork contact at lock, but you should be okay.

Good question on the wiring and connectors, not just fuel level sensor, though. Your external fuel pump wiring will have to connect to the internal pump of the Long Tank. As well as the fuel routing, as you say.  The later long tanks connect with those "Quick Disconnect" (misnomer??) while the earlier hoses have simple hose clamps.

Avoid using the throttle rod "tunnel" to route hoses and wiring as the throttle can be fouled and send you halfway to a bad day . . .

IMG_2757.jpg

The later in tank pump tank is a sensible mod and one I wanted to do myself but I found it won't fit a short frame bike without the forks hitting the tank. Others disagreed somehow and reckoned it was "no issue". I never found out how it was "no issue" The advantage of the in tank pump is it's a whole lot neater for the injector hosing and far more "integrated". The downside is the loss of the Chin Pad "character". it's quite a bit longer around 60mm from memory and all forward of the front mount to fill in the extra gap created by the frame extension behind the steering head. I posted images and figure a while back.

Ciao  

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8 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

The later in tank pump tank is a sensible mod and one I wanted to do myself but I found it won't fit a short frame bike without the forks hitting the tank. Others disagreed somehow and reckoned it was "no issue". I never found out how it was "no issue" The advantage of the in tank pump is it's a whole lot neater for the injector hosing and far more "integrated". The downside is the loss of the Chin Pad "character". it's quite a bit longer around 60mm from memory and all forward of the front mount to fill in the extra gap created by the frame extension behind the steering head. I posted images and figure a while back.

Ciao  

 

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Haha... I remember that exchange well, Phil. I think we both learned something new. We clarified that there were 3 configurations from the factory.

  1. Short frame with short tank (pad and external pump) - up to 2001 model year, will not accommodate later tank.
  2. Long frame with short tank (all 2002s and many 2003s) - will accommodate later tank.
  3. Long frame with long tank. (2003 LeMans, and all 2004 and later.
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4 minutes ago, Grim said:

Forgot to ask, is this the "quick" release fuel line? Or do I just push hoses onto the red and white things?

 VOIaqLc.png

Hmm, interesting. The nefarious "Quick Release" parts are on the fuel lines, themselves. Why not push your fuel lines on and clamp them down with high pressure clamps? You're making up all new lines anyway, yes?

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28 minutes ago, docc said:

Hmm, interesting. The nefarious "Quick Release" parts are on the fuel lines, themselves. Why not push your fuel lines on and clamp them down with high pressure clamps? You're making up all new lines anyway, yes?

Yes, I have fuel line and FI clamps... I didn't know if the red and white things would accept that kind of treatment!!

I assume the quick release bit doesn't exert much pressure and I didn't want to crack some plastic that is:

a) Italian in nature

b) old.

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56 minutes ago, docc said:

Hmm, interesting. The nefarious "Quick Release" parts are on the fuel lines, themselves. Why not push your fuel lines on and clamp them down with high pressure clamps? You're making up all new lines anyway, yes?

Those connectors aren't really suitable for a hose and clamp situation docc. The locking collar is quite high and a long way onto the projection so you've got a lot of hose to push onto the projection over the retaining collar section ( which would be hard unless you reduced it's dia a bit) and then a hose clamp at the end without a lot of room left. Too much on a delicate fitting. It seems they work ok if you know the technique for releasing them and make sure you support the fitting when removing and refitting the QR hose. People break them by using poor technique and being ham fisted. You can buy after market metal versions but they are expensive.

ciao  

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Those fuel line connectors will take practice . after you get the hang of it , it will smoke you on how easy it is to disconnect . Push the hose toward the fitting , then push the quick release away from the fitting  {you may have to rotate the sleeve portion} and allow the hose to slide away from the fitting .

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52 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Those fuel line connectors will take practice . after you get the hang of it , it will smoke you on how easy it is to disconnect . Push the hose toward the fitting , then push the quick release away from the fitting  {you may have to rotate the sleeve portion} and allow the hose to slide away from the fitting .

Yep, but the important thing is to apply equal opposing force to the plastic fitting when you are pushing and pulling on the hose during the process.

Ciao 

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I have never touched one of these quick-disconnects on a 04 model . I have seen a lot of connectors on other stuff destroyed by Cavemen to Klingons . I know one thing , once you get pissed off , caution and care go out the window ! I have a tool box drawer full of devices to get these "things" disconnected and the technique is NEVER quite the same , go figure ?

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