FreyZI Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 9 hours ago, Lucky Phil said: The top mount in the image I'm not seeing an image, Lucky Phil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreyZI Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 10 hours ago, Scud said: This would be a good time to install one of those remote clutch bleeder hoses if you feel like spending $70. Do you have a part reference for that? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 1 hour ago, FreyZI said: Do you have a part reference for that? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreyZI Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 27 minutes ago, Scud said: That's a precious part; should be gold plated. But, seems like a necessary investment to avoid future headache. Somebody (i.e., not me) should cobble a score of these together and sell to the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 5 hours ago, FreyZI said: I'm not seeing an image, Lucky Phil. sorry. As you can see it's slotted a fair way to relieve the stress. Best image I have. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreyZI Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 Powder coater is going to love me: Remote clutch hose and bleeder valves arrived today. Unfortunately, much (job) work ahead. Probably two weeks of shite ahead before I can devote much attention to Bubbles. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Are you going to strip out all the gears, bearings and seals from that? I have simply stripped off the old paint and used engine case spray paint (rattle-can) for a couple final drives. They came out nicely. FWIW - I used VHT brand satin black. A semi-gloss might look even better. The driveshaft collars are an easy powder-coat. Bubbles... for Champagne... I like it. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreyZI Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 39 minutes ago, Scud said: Are you going to strip out all the gears, bearings and seals from that? I have simply stripped off the old paint and used engine case spray paint (rattle-can) for a couple final drives. They came out nicely. FWIW - I used VHT brand satin black. A semi-gloss might look even better. The driveshaft collars are an easy powder-coat. Bubbles... for Champagne... I like it. Well, the more I thought about, the more I thought it's going to be a PITA to strip out everything. No obvious issues with the rear drive; oil looked unremarkable. Plus, I don't have a ring nut socket and I don't want to start whacking the thing with a drift. Stopped by Adv. Auto on my way home from work today and picked up aircraft stripper and paint. I got the VHT wrinkle plus, thinking it may be a decent approximation of the original fuzzy finish. That said, I have reservations about the fuzzy finish and thought I might instead use a semi-gloss black to (try to) match the swingarm. I know there are some threads about the wrinkle/crinckle paint for the engine, but I haven't read up on them. I'll strip tonight and think about the paint some more... Happy to accept any thoughts on the paint options. Cheers! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to keep the wrinkle finish on the final drive. It's far enough away from the engine and transmission that it will look fine with a different finish. Better to get as close to the swingarm as possible. On my Scura, the swingarm is powdercoated flat black (as are almost every other black bracket lever, footpeg, etc.). The engine, tranny, final drive and reaction rod are all painted with VHT Satin Black (over VHT Engine Case primer). For some reason, the final drive took the finish differently than the other cases, which is why I thought maybe Semi-Gloss would be good for the final drive. Overall, the Satin Black paint looks similar to the flat black powder - except on the final drive where the spray paint yielded an even flatter finish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreyZI Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Scud said: Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to keep the wrinkle finish on the final drive. It's far enough away from the engine and transmission that it will look fine with a different finish. Better to get as close to the swingarm as possible. On my Scura, the swingarm is powdercoated flat black (as are almost every other black bracket lever, footpeg, etc.). The engine, tranny, final drive and reaction rod are all painted with VHT Satin Black (over VHT Engine Case primer). For some reason, the final drive took the finish differently than the other cases, which is why I thought maybe Semi-Gloss would be good for the final drive. Overall, the Satin Black paint looks similar to the flat black powder - except on the final drive where the spray paint yielded an even flatter finish. Man, Scud, your Scura is impossibly clean (nice Turismo Veloce behind yours, too). I do see that the final drive is flatter than the swingarm. Maybe I'll just paint my swingarm, too (it cleaned up pretty well). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreyZI Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 Final drive is stripped and about ready for paint. Some unsightly areas where there was a lot of corrosion. I have both a semi-gloss and a crinkle paint. Will shoot a scrap of alu and see how they look. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 3 hours ago, FreyZI said: Final drive is stripped and about ready for paint. Some unsightly areas where there was a lot of corrosion. I have both a semi-gloss and a crinkle paint. Will shoot a scrap of alu and see how they look. Ah, yes, the nefarious V11 Achille's Heel of the outboard (oft neglected) needle cage. Have you been able to inspect the nose of the crown wheel? Grease those needle cages liberally, and often, y'all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 From Pete, several years ago.. One thing that rarely gets mentioned is the bearing in the right hand outer part of the bevelbox. It's there to allow for movement in the reactive drive so the box can rock slightly on the wheel spindle. Thing is Guzzi thoughtfully didn't put in a seal to keep the water out and even more bizarrely use a bearing with a hole in the inner race that would seem to almost be designed to allow the ingress of water! Throw in the famous 'Mandello Grease Phobia' and you have a recipe for failure! Now it's not an immediate, life threatening, problem but if the bearing wears or collapses it can lead to problems with other, more important, bearings in the box. The main trick is preventative maintenance. First, next time it needs a tyre check the bearing while the spindle is out. Remove the washer outboard of it and pull out the inner race. If the bearing needs replacing, (And if it's been neglected it may well do so.) it needs an expanding puller to get it out of the box. Best idea is to just unhook the box from the reactive rod and take it to the bench. Incidentally one of the gearbox bearing pullers for the old five speed gearbox fits this bearing too. The bearing itself is a 'Free Grandfather Clock With Every Half Dozen' one available from any bearing factor. Get one without the water ingress hole! file:///tmp/lu826549re2kxs.tmp/lu826549re2ky9_tmp_71e6c1a972543bfd.gif Press it in and grease it well before reinstalling it on the reaction arm. DON'T FORGET TO ALIGN THE DRIVESHAFT WHEN YOU RECONNECT IT! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Once the bearing is well greased, (I use a 'Waterproof' marine grease.) it can simply be re-greased thoroughly at every tyre change and it'll last pretty much forever. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreyZI Posted February 18, 2022 Author Share Posted February 18, 2022 10 hours ago, docc said: Have you been able to inspect the nose of the crown wheel? This is what I see: I haven't cracked the final drive open. I wasn't going to go there. But, I gather you're going to tell me that would be foolish... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 8 hours ago, FreyZI said: This is what I see: I haven't cracked the final drive open. I wasn't going to go there. But, I gather you're going to tell me that would be foolish... Yes, the nose of the crown wheel is inside the reardrive. Yet, if it's not leaking perhaps best to leave it be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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