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Ground truthing '02 Lemans purchase


FreyZI
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10 hours ago, Scud said:

This would be a good time to install one of those remote clutch bleeder hoses if you feel like spending $70.

Do you have a part reference for that?

Cheers.

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27 minutes ago, Scud said:

 

That's a precious part; should be gold plated.  But, seems like a necessary investment to avoid future headache.  Somebody (i.e., not me) should cobble a score of these together and sell to the forum.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Powder coater is going to love me:

IMG_14022022_001339_(800_x_800_pixel).jpg

Remote clutch hose and bleeder valves arrived today. 

Unfortunately, much (job) work ahead. Probably two weeks of shite ahead before I can devote much attention to Bubbles.

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Are you going to strip out all the gears, bearings and seals from that? I have simply stripped off the old paint and used engine case spray paint (rattle-can) for a couple final drives. They came out nicely. FWIW - I used VHT brand satin black. A semi-gloss might look even better. The driveshaft collars are an easy powder-coat.

Bubbles... for Champagne... I like it. 

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39 minutes ago, Scud said:

Are you going to strip out all the gears, bearings and seals from that? I have simply stripped off the old paint and used engine case spray paint (rattle-can) for a couple final drives. They came out nicely. FWIW - I used VHT brand satin black. A semi-gloss might look even better. The driveshaft collars are an easy powder-coat.

Bubbles... for Champagne... I like it. 

Well, the more I thought about, the more I thought it's going to be a PITA to strip out everything.  No obvious issues with the rear drive; oil looked unremarkable.  Plus, I don't have a ring nut socket and I don't want to start whacking the thing with a drift.  Stopped by Adv. Auto on my way home from work today and picked up aircraft stripper and paint.  I got the VHT wrinkle plus, thinking it may be a decent approximation of the original fuzzy finish.  That said, I have reservations about the fuzzy finish and thought I might instead use a semi-gloss black to (try to) match the swingarm.  I know there are some threads about the wrinkle/crinckle paint for the engine, but I haven't read up on them.  I'll strip tonight and think about the paint some more...  Happy to accept any thoughts on the paint options.

Cheers! :drink:

 

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Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to keep the wrinkle finish on the final drive. It's far enough away from the engine and transmission that it will look fine with a different finish. Better to get as close to the swingarm as possible.

On my Scura, the swingarm is powdercoated flat black (as are almost every other black bracket lever, footpeg, etc.). The engine, tranny, final drive and reaction rod are all painted with VHT Satin Black (over VHT Engine Case primer). For some reason, the final drive took the finish differently than the other cases, which is why I thought maybe Semi-Gloss would be good for the final drive. Overall, the Satin Black paint looks similar to the flat black powder - except on the final drive where the spray paint yielded an even flatter finish.

C6ED7BE4-8503-491C-859D-8C9114E0F922_1_1

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1 hour ago, Scud said:

Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to keep the wrinkle finish on the final drive. It's far enough away from the engine and transmission that it will look fine with a different finish. Better to get as close to the swingarm as possible.

On my Scura, the swingarm is powdercoated flat black (as are almost every other black bracket lever, footpeg, etc.). The engine, tranny, final drive and reaction rod are all painted with VHT Satin Black (over VHT Engine Case primer). For some reason, the final drive took the finish differently than the other cases, which is why I thought maybe Semi-Gloss would be good for the final drive. Overall, the Satin Black paint looks similar to the flat black powder - except on the final drive where the spray paint yielded an even flatter finish.

C6ED7BE4-8503-491C-859D-8C9114E0F922_1_1

Man, Scud, your Scura is impossibly clean (nice Turismo Veloce behind yours, too).  I do see that the final drive is flatter than the swingarm. 

Maybe I'll just paint my swingarm, too (it cleaned up pretty well).

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Final drive is stripped and about ready for paint.IMG_17022022_084528_(700_x_700_pixel).jpg

Some unsightly areas where there was a lot of corrosion. I have both a semi-gloss and a crinkle paint. Will shoot a scrap of alu and see how they look.

 

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3 hours ago, FreyZI said:

Final drive is stripped and about ready for paint.IMG_17022022_084528_(700_x_700_pixel).jpg

Some unsightly areas where there was a lot of corrosion. I have both a semi-gloss and a crinkle paint. Will shoot a scrap of alu and see how they look.

 

Ah, yes, the nefarious V11 Achille's Heel of the outboard (oft neglected) needle cage. Have you been able to inspect the nose of the crown wheel?

IMG_4845.jpg

Grease those needle cages liberally, and often, y'all! :luigi:

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From Pete, several years ago..

One thing that rarely gets mentioned is the bearing in the right hand outer part of the bevelbox. It's there to allow for movement in the reactive drive so the box can rock slightly on the wheel spindle. Thing is Guzzi thoughtfully didn't put in a seal to keep the water out and even more bizarrely use a bearing with a hole in the inner race that would seem to almost be designed to allow the ingress of water! Throw in the famous 'Mandello Grease Phobia' and you have a recipe for failure!

Now it's not an immediate, life threatening, problem but if the bearing wears or collapses it can lead to problems with other, more important, bearings in the box. The main trick is preventative maintenance. First, next time it needs a tyre check the bearing while the spindle is out. Remove the washer outboard of it and pull out the inner race. If the bearing needs replacing, (And if it's been neglected it may well do so.) it needs an expanding puller to get it out of the box. Best idea is to just unhook the box from the reactive rod and take it to the bench. Incidentally one of the gearbox bearing pullers for the old five speed gearbox fits this bearing too. The bearing itself is a 'Free Grandfather Clock With Every Half Dozen' one available from any bearing factor. Get one without the water ingress hole! file:///tmp/lu826549re2kxs.tmp/lu826549re2ky9_tmp_71e6c1a972543bfd.gif Press it in and grease it well before reinstalling it on the reaction arm. DON'T FORGET TO ALIGN THE DRIVESHAFT WHEN YOU RECONNECT IT! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Once the bearing is well greased, (I use a 'Waterproof' marine grease.) it can simply be re-greased thoroughly at every tyre change and it'll last pretty much forever.

Pete

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10 hours ago, docc said:

Have you been able to inspect the nose of the crown wheel?

This is what I see:

IMG_17022022_225328_(700_x_700_pixel).jpg

I haven't cracked the final drive open. I wasn't going to go there. But, I gather you're going to tell me that would be foolish...

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8 hours ago, FreyZI said:

This is what I see:

IMG_17022022_225328_(700_x_700_pixel).jpg

I haven't cracked the final drive open. I wasn't going to go there. But, I gather you're going to tell me that would be foolish...

Yes, the nose of the crown wheel is inside the reardrive.

Yet, if it's not leaking perhaps best to leave it be?

 

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