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play in ignition barrel


bentombed

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i'm restoring a neglected scura,  onto the final stretch.

what i have found is there is a lot of play in the ignition barrel, when you put in the key you need to wobble it around to get the oil pump to engage, is this a big problem?  i'm a fan of the not broken dont fix it school of life. 

secondly the bike is a hard start, even with a fully  charged battery, it will go but it needs a fair bit of coaxing. are these two bit related?   i'm yet to check the earths but i have replaced all the relays and fuses. the charging system seems to be fine. 

 

Cheers

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6 minutes ago, bentombed said:

i'm restoring a neglected scura,  onto the final stretch.

what i have found is there is a lot of play in the ignition barrel, when you put in the key you need to wobble it around to get the oil pump to engage, is this a big problem?  i'm a fan of the not broken dont fix it school of life. 

secondly the bike is a hard start, even with a fully  charged battery, it will go but it needs a fair bit of coaxing. are these two bit related?   i'm yet to check the earths but i have replaced all the relays and fuses. the charging system seems to be fine. 

 

Cheers

I'm trying to understand the relationship to the oil pump and ignition switch. Do you mean the Low oil pressure light or the fuel pump to prime? If you need to jiggle the key in the ignition switch to make things work then you should consider it "broken" and look into fixing it. You can disassemble it.

hard to start? what have you done to it so far in the restoration. How long has it sat dormant?

Ciao

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5 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

I'm trying to understand the relationship to the oil pump and ignition switch. Do you mean the Low oil pressure light or the fuel pump to prime? If you need to jiggle the key in the ignition switch to make things work then you should consider it "broken" and look into fixing it. You can disassemble it.

hard to start? what have you done to it so far in the restoration. How long has it sat dormant?

Ciao

fuel pump to prime.  all the lights come on.  the bike sat outside, in a carport, uncovered, for 3 years.   the battery is old, i'm thinking a new battery should fix the hard to start issue.

 

changed all the fluids, restored the drive shaft. check tappets,  replaced swing arm bearings. painted lots of bits.  the bike was very weathered but seemed to run ok. I have not yet ridden it. 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, bentombed said:

fuel pump to prime.  all the lights come on.  the bike sat outside, in a carport, uncovered, for 3 years.   the battery is old, i'm thinking a new battery should fix the hard to start issue.

 

changed all the fluids, restored the drive shaft. check tappets,  replaced swing arm bearings. painted lots of bits.  the bike was very weathered but seemed to run ok. I have not yet ridden it. 

 

 

 

What sort of battery? If it's an Odyssey it'll still probably be ok after conditioning. They start better in my experience if you set the high idle lever on and don't touch the throttle until it's running.

Ciao

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Hopefully Kiwi Roy will show up.

I believe the switches are rebuildable, although I've never had one apart myself.

If the swtich is dodgy I'd be doing that as quite apart from the starting issue, there's a good chance it'll give up and leave you stranded somewhere. From a quick glance at an early V11 diagram it doesn't look like the switch is under the same load as earlier schemes, which is a good thing

Old battery is where I'd start & although I don't have a V11 Phil's advice about the battery reconditioning or replacing and starting advice is what I do with my Sporti. In my experience twisting the throttle on starting just makes things worse

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I had two starting issues with my 2004 V11 when I got it. First one turn the handlebars to the right lock & no instrument lights, nothing. Turn the bars to the left lock everything worked. Turned out under the tank were two bullet connectors that when the bars were to the right pulled apart enough to stop everything.

The second issue which might be what you are experiencing, although my cylinder was still tight, the wiring was not supported going into the cylinder & one of the soldered joints broke but didn’t come away. I took the cylinder out & had enough play in the wiring to re-solder all back where it should have been. Added a physical support to take the tension off the wires going to the lock cylinder & all has been good since.

Luckily for me it wasn’t beyond what was easy to see.

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3 hours ago, nobleswood said:

I had two starting issues with my 2004 V11 when I got it. First one turn the handlebars to the right lock & no instrument lights, nothing. Turn the bars to the left lock everything worked. Turned out under the tank were two bullet connectors that when the bars were to the right pulled apart enough to stop everything.

The second issue which might be what you are experiencing, although my cylinder was still tight, the wiring was not supported going into the cylinder & one of the soldered joints broke but didn’t come away. I took the cylinder out & had enough play in the wiring to re-solder all back where it should have been. Added a physical support to take the tension off the wires going to the lock cylinder & all has been good since.

Luckily for me it wasn’t beyond what was easy to see.

i think the second issue is what is going on with mine.  I will find some time and take the barrel out to look. thank you. 

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