Jump to content
IGNORED

oil leak, right side


p6x
 Share

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, docc said:

I did not know they are different. Thanks for the clarification!

@p6x asked, "Can this timing chest/case can be removed without taking the engine down completely? "

The answer is, "yes." Other things have to get out of the way. Someone did this recently and posted. Maybe @andy york or @Pressureangle in one of the Timing Gears threads . . .

Valpolini are from what I've seen a plain metal based gasket with what looks like a pressure sensitive sealant coating. I've used them on rocker covers and they are very good and far superior to the composite gaskets of any kind, silicon or otherwise. The Guzzi timing cover gasket is a similar style but a true "crimped metal" gasket with pressure sensitive sealant so the metal base has been formed to provide some spring to it which means it doesn't rely entirely on the sealant. The "spring" means it adapts to expansion and contraction very well as the engine heat cycles. It's virtually a single layer MLS head gasket in effect. It also provides a more solid layer between the two sealed components so there is not relaxing of the gasket and the securing screws maintain their tension.

Cioa  

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My next question would be how long does it take to just remove the timing case to change the gasket.

Today it was 99 degF (38 degC) and with the humidity, it is suffocating to do any kind of physical labor.

I think I am going to wait for cooler days, and keep going with that seepage, unless it worsen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would it be a horrible bodge, or a waste of time, or a risk of worsening, to drag a pick along that leaking juncture / clean it well with a solvent, and apply an RTV silicone from the outside, working it into the seam?

Field expedient? :luigi:

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, p6x said:

My next question would be how long does it take to just remove the timing case to change the gasket.

Today it was 99 degF (38 degC) and with the humidity, it is suffocating to do any kind of physical labor.

I think I am going to wait for cooler days, and keep going with that seepage, unless it worsen.

Tank off, front subframe off, alternator cover and alternator off plus a few other bits and pieces as well as the cover itself. Honestly without the "its a 10 minute job" thing maybe you'd have it off in an hour and a half being careful. My as well change out the crank seal while you have the cover off as well.

Ciao 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, docc said:

Would it be a horrible bodge, or a waste of time, or a risk of worsening, to drag a pick along that leaking juncture / clean it well with a solvent, and apply an RTV silicone from the outside, working it into the seam?

Field expedient? :luigi:

That's a "get you home fix docc".:thumbsup:

Ciao

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Lucky Phil said:

Tank off, front subframe off, alternator cover and alternator off plus a few other bits and pieces as well as the cover itself. Honestly without the "its a 10 minute job" thing maybe you'd have it off in an hour and a half being careful. My as well change out the crank seal while you have the cover off as well.

Ciao 

You did not include the usual Murphy law: if anything can go wrong, it will!

I am going to get the gasket first.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, p6x said:

You did not include the usual Murphy law: if anything can go wrong, it will!

I am going to get the gasket first.

 "Unless the aircraft is unserviceable and grounded don't start the component removal process until you have the replacement part in your hand" How may times did I need to reinforce this to the aircraft mechanics I supervised. Plus the crank seal. Even if you don't change it it wont cost any extra shipping and if you damage the original during the process you'll have one on hand.

Ciao

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seeing as how you have a LeMans it could be a little more involved than any of the other V11 models.

Have you ever had the fairing off ? Thats the easy part ....10 bolts and its off. 

I was going to write this up but decided against it. It can be a bit intimidating. If you are going to be crawling around on the floor, your gonna hate this job. If you have a lift you will just learn some new words.:grin:

I think the front triangle frame needs to come out because of the horn and voltage reg mountings might block access to the top of the cover.

make sure you have a very good set of Allen sockets and make sure you have a good bite when loosening the fasteners.

when you get closer to doing the job let us know. I have done this quite a few times:race:

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, p6x said:

You did not include the usual Murphy law: if anything can go wrong, it will!

I am going to get the gasket first.

  2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Tank off, front subframe off, alternator cover and alternator off plus a few other bits and pieces as well as the cover itself. Honestly without the "its a 10 minute job" thing maybe you'd have it off in an hour and a half being careful. My as well change out the crank seal while you have the cover off as well.

Ciao 

 

I had forgotten about all that crap having to come off to do that job; as LP says, I seem to recall a small seal on that shaft, and iirc you need a special little tool to pop the alternator off. I had made a home made one out of an old screw driver that worked better than the one I bought from EME, fwiw.

Make sure you have that tool and be patient and careful doing that part of the job, I've read far too many horror stories of guys getting the tool stuck in there and Murphy's law can turn it into quite the adventure.

Patience and good luck

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I purchased some black auto-vulcanizing sealant and I applied it this evening. 

Hopefully, this should carry me through the Texas Tour completion.

I added some oil to compensate the seepage.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, the leak is not quenched completely. 

Now that I know that the oil is a good paint remover, I better isolate it else my engine is going to loose its color...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My right side oil leak was the top oil cooler hose.  Tough to track down since the oil leaked into the wire mesh jacket on the hose, then got blown off of there.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, bbolesaz said:

My right side oil leak was the top oil cooler hose.  Tough to track down since the oil leaked into the wire mesh jacket on the hose, then got blown off of there.

I have been looking up that area too. Thanks for the tip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...