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Right side exhaust support broken ChC screw.


p6x
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17 hours ago, docc said:

Is there enough threaded portion of the remaining fastener protruding inboard to get a clamping pliers ("ViceGrip®") on the turn the fastener inboard to remove (after a liberal soaking of penetrating oil-of-choice plus, maybe, a bit of heat gun)?

Sorry for this scary view of my broken frame tab, but it shows how the fasteners can protrude inboard . . .

IMG_0342.jpg

Docc that looks ugly!

What was the cause of that carnage.  A lay down or a tie down?

I've seen some funky poor welding on a variety of alloys, but that repair looks quite good.

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Metal fatigue failure from years of overloading the Tekno pannier. At first I thought the welds failed, but it was the three metal tabs that broke. My fabricator decided to connect the entire frame tab to the tubing instead of the three separate points. He also addressed the other side preemptively.

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I got it out using the "jam nut" technique. I also understood why the head broke. I purchased stainless replacement M8 x 40 mm long CHC screws, but the passenger foot peg holding bracket is not in line with the threaded hole. I need to untighten the other screw to align the hole with the thread. I need to remove the seat skirt to access the other screw though.

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On 5/25/2022 at 9:19 AM, PJPR01 said:

I've had some good luck at Ace Hardware, they have lots of screws, metric and SAE, different heads.  In fact for the V11 rack, I wanted longer screws than those which came with the original package, and found exactly the same recessed hex head shaped, but a bit longer to get more purchase on the thread at my local ACE hardware.  They were silver, so I just painted the heads black to hide them on the rack frame.  You might have luck finding something similar for these, and they have a long metal frame in the bolts section that you can match your thread to so you can guarantee it's the right coarseness and thickness.

I did all the purchases from "The nut place" 6605 Gessner Road, Houston, TX 77040-4015; They have all metric fasteners in stock, stainless too, they also have a machine shop, they can do fabrication.

Nice and friendly people. I recommend.

 

 

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I recall the recommendation that stainless steel fastener threads be coated with a grease or sealant to inhibit corrosive bimetal electrolysis when screwed into aluminum (the aluminum becomes sacrificial). I wonder if similar applies to stainless steel screwed into steel?

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1 hour ago, p6x said:

I got it out using the "jam nut" technique. I also understood why the head broke. I purchased stainless replacement M8 x 30 mm long CHC screws, but the passenger foot peg holding bracket is not in line with the threaded hole. I need to untighten the other screw to align the hole with the thread. I need to remove the seat skirt to access the other screw though.

 

NGMY0887

 

Time permitting, a spritz with Kroil or other penetrant and patience will help extract broken bolts. As well dad taught me decades ago to use anti-seize compound on fasteners which might suffer from electrolysis or road grime.  The plugs on his Continental C85 were so treated.

 

Bolts that protrude out the backside can also have their threads covered with the small vinyl caps that are sold with children's toys etc.

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4 hours ago, docc said:

I recall the recommendation that stainless steel fastener threads be coated with a grease or sealant to inhibit corrosive bimetal electrolysis when screwed into aluminum (the aluminum becomes sacrificial). I wonder if similar applies to stainless steel screwed into steel?

One of the big defect of the stainless steel is galling..... I mean stainless steel in stainless steel. In my battle tank days, we used molysllip, molykote, and coprikote. A quick web search got me to UK https://www.molyslip.co.uk/copaslip/

But I am certain you can get these compounds here in the United States. It worked on battle tanks taken through terrain, mud, salt water, sand what not....

Tomorrow, I shall install four stainless steel M8 x 30mm CHC. Just to meet the minimum purchase, I now own 50 M8 nuts, 50 M8 washers.... I regret the days when you could simply purchase the exact quantity you needed...

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8 hours ago, gstallons said:

Stainless steel is DRY . You must use a anti-seize lubricant to prevent thread galling .

Buchanan's sells stainless lube for their spokes. I still have an ancient bottle I use for those rare occasions.

http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/miscellaneous_tools.asp

 

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Trust me . you funk up enough EXPEN$IVE $tuff , you will never , ever put things together dry as long as you live !!!!!!!! 

 

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The reason why the screw broke is because this is the side where I dropped the bike. To be able to put everything back together, I had to loosen the two screws of the foot peg bracket, and pull on the exhaust and the foot beg to align the holes to slide the screw.

For the other side, no issue at all. The screws go in and out without any force.

I found the relay shown on the left hand side pic suspended by a broken zip tie. What is that relay for?

The screws are M8 x 40mm long. I used anti-seize anti-ruts compound.

_DM36091_DM36093

 

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I will venture this is the turn indicator "flasher" unit. "85 c/m" (cycles per minute?)

52104317130_ed087fa38c_b.jpg

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