Pre-load adjustment

[Guest indadogghouse]

I would like to adjust my pre-load on my 2003 v11 naked. I looked through my owner's and shop manuals and it looks like I have to remove my tank and side panels, possibly the airbox cover, and I need a "special key".

I've searched around this site for 'bout 45 minutes and can't find the answer to my questions, which are

1) There's no "easy" way to get at the pre-load adjustment? Kinda makes it difficult to adjust and try, now I actually have to make exact measurements...

2) And what is this special key that the manuals mention? Is there something in the tool kit?

 

Thanks.

 

Tam

[Guest Brian Robson]

Loosen the rear tank bolt, then take off the three bolts on each side panel. Use a long screwdriver and gently unlock the top ring. Then gently tap the adjuster ring as far as you need, then re lock with the lock ring. Clean the threads with say WD40, and lightly grease afterwards to make further adjustments a little easier.

The screwdriver route will mark the rings.

A C-spanner (straight piece of metal with a c shaped hook on the end) is better but difficult to get in the space. There is a also a c-shaped tool that attachs to a socket drive. The screwdriver is readily available and you don't really adjust the preload frequently.

[Guest indadogghouse]

Oh, the special tool is the C spanner, eh? Okay, I think that is in the toolkit.

You know I did what you mentioned, I took the tank bolt off, propped up the tank, took off the right side panel, and to my amazement, the side panel seems to be window dressing because right underneath the panel is a plastic molded panel that looks like some type of ducting... so in essence, taking off the side panel did absolutely nothing since the side panels just act as "skin" and "decoration" to these other covers underneath them.

Of course, I did this kind of quickly, so more tinkering is needed, but I didn't see anyway of easily or intuitively removing these covers (at least on the right side, I didn't bother with the left after what I saw). Again this is the 2003 V11 Naked. I will try using the long screwdriver, but with the panels on, it's difficult to reach. Probably will end up just taking the tank and everything else off, just so that I know how to do it. I was just wanting to do a quick pre-load adjustment.

 

Thanks again.

Tam

[docc]

Tam,

 

the ducting under the side panel is the airbox. I've always pulled my tank and airbox to set the preload. I've done it by 'drifting' as Brian suggests but found it much nicer to use a pair of c-spanners like are sold for adjusting motocross shocks.

And Brian's right about another thing, once set you won't have to mess with it.

[Guest Brian Robson]

It is easier to take off the side panels. The rationale is that the screwdriver may mark the airbox, but it won't mark or gouge the side panel covers.

Long screwdriver reaches the shock (if you grind off the tip of a cheap long screwdriver you lose the hardening and it is much gentler on the shock rings).

[Dirtybill]

It is easier to take off the side panels. The rationale is that the screwdriver may mark the airbox, but it won't mark or gouge the side panel covers.

Long screwdriver reaches the shock (if you grind off the tip of a cheap long screwdriver you lose the hardening and it is much gentler on the shock rings).

I usually get the missus to do it.

 

After she's done the ironing of course

[Mike Stewart]

I use a Progressive spring tool SW-783:

 

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/preload-wrenches.html

 

Just put the bike on the shop stand, use 3/8 extensions as needed and a few busted knuckles, some swear words and your preload is set. It is also easier if the rear hugger is off, but who uses them anyway?

 

Mike

[Guest indadogghouse]

Thanks for all the advice and responses. I worked on it this weekend and found out that to use the C-Spanners (which came with the toolkit) that I had to take the airbox and intake manifold off. Didn't feel like doing this, so I used the screwdriver method, first prescribed by Brian. I ended up using a long starter rod (used to start my radio control .60 size helicopter) and it was perfectly suited for this job. A long ~8", 1/4" diameter rod, blunt and rounded on one end with a 1" dia cyclinder on the other (perfect for putting a hammer to). This rod is stripped on the head so I couldn't use it to start my helo engine(bought another), but I decided to keep it around... pack rats unite! Finally got use out of something I decided to keep around, just because... woohoo. It did leave marks on the pre-load adjustment nuts, but it did the job.

Again, thanks for all the input.