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2000 v11 sport observations and questions


mikev
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Since buying my v11 sport earlier this year I've logged about ~750 miles.  Bike has ~25.5k miles now.  I got it at ~24.75k  Things I've noticed include, sometimes bike sputters out and stalls at low idle.  Occasionally I accidentally "find" a neutral gear where it should not be when shifting.  The neutral light works sometimes, usually when bike is warmed up it stops lighting up.  And, sometimes putting the kickstand down when in gear turns engine off and sometimes it doesn't.  Browsing the forum, seems like many of these things are quirky things others with this model experience too.  Just checking I am right about these things. 

Yesterday I after a great ride on a hot day home from work I backed the bike into garage and it was running in neutral, steering seemed to whine a little, for the first time I've noticed it.  Fluid levels look ok.

I've been thinking about what kind of maintenance I should do, change oil, maybe change drive shaft fluid.  Found fewer videos about how to change the oil on youtube than I expected.  It looks like you drain by removing the plug, then remove the plate/cover on the sump and replace the filter.  One video shows this filter as a Bosch 3300 which is a typical looking car-like filter with a metal cup.  You drain oil and remove filter cover and replace it.  (this version is in the manual) Seems pretty easy.  Another video I found had a completely different filter, kind of like some of my Toyotas have just the filter part & O rings without the metal cup.  A large bolt ran up thru the filter and exterior filter cap to remove it.  And yet another showed someone removing the entire sump to get at the filter.  

Can anyone here fill me in on how to do the oil change and any other maintenance I should be thinking about doing?  Tips & tricks etc.

 

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Thanks @pressureangle, I'm kinda new to motorcycle maintenance.  I have been reading that massive thread and while I've found a lot of interesting things, like people really seem to dislike the stock steering dampener.  I didn't find anything by searching 'oil change' or 'how to change the oil'.  So, I search youtube I already described what I found.  I guess 'how to change the oil' is like 'how to scramble an egg', you never see it in the cook books.  Funny thing, my brother-in-law had to teach my niece how to scramble an egg when she got an apartment.  I'll keep searching.

 

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43 minutes ago, mikev said:

Thanks @pressureangle, I'm kinda new to motorcycle maintenance.  I have been reading that massive thread and while I've found a lot of interesting things, like people really seem to dislike the stock steering dampener.  I didn't find anything by searching 'oil change' or 'how to change the oil'.  So, I search youtube I already described what I found.  I guess 'how to change the oil' is like 'how to scramble an egg', you never see it in the cook books.  Funny thing, my brother-in-law had to teach my niece how to scramble an egg when she got an apartment.  I'll keep searching.

 

About the only unusual thing in doing an oil change on a V11 Sport is the oil filter access. The oil filter is actually in the oil sump of the motor, and they added a "manhole" access port in the bottom of the sump to get to the filter AFTER you drain the oil out of the sump. Or some people prefer to change the oil filter by removing the sump. That allows increased access to the oil filter. One key aspect of an oil filter change is to make sure when you remove the oil filter the oil filter gasket comes with the oil filter. If it stick to the engine and you install another oil filter without noticing that the filter gasket was stuck in place it will cause oil issues with the sealing surface of the oil filter leaking oil pressure. A sure sign this has happened is a low oil pressure light that won't go out as it should.

If the stock steering damper is working properly it is fine. Ours failed. That is not uncommon. We removed it when it failed and never replaced it. The V11 doesn't really need a steering damper. But if yours fails and you prefer the heavier, slower, steering that comes from having a steering damper by all means replace it with a quality unit. My wife found she preferred the lighter steering and increased feedback she got without the steering damper. But I can see where some people would not prefer that.

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The first thing you lose sight of as an expert in any discipline is that everyone begins without knowing even the most basic tasks. 
So with that in mind, don't be afraid to ask basic questions. Yes, changing the oil is as simple as draining the oil from the plug at the rear, and changing the oil filter. I only change my filter every 2nd or 3rd oil change. 

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Check the fileshare section of this site for links to manuals and such.

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/forum/11-fileshare/

As for the oil change, given that this will be your first oil change on a new-to-you bike, I'd suggest that you drop the sump (oil pan). To do so, you will need to first drain the oil and disconnect the oil-lines that attach to it. There are about 12 small bolts, and the whole pan will drop. Then you will have super-easy access to change the oil filter, which is a "car-type" I've been using one by WIX (cuz I copied Docc), but several other brands are also compatible. Many of us avoid the recommended UFI filter, due to problems with the O-ring.

The main reason I recommend dropping the oil pan the first time is that some people secure the oil filter with an additional hose-clamp, which can only be removed by dropping the pan. This will also give you a chance to clean out the screen around the oil pick-up tube, and have a look up into the engine, which is just fun to do.

After the first oil-change, you can decide whether to repeat that process or use the "man-hole-cover" in the bottom of the sump.

As for the Bitubo damper - take it off and extend/compress it a few times in your hands. If it has a noticeable sticking point, it has started to work against you instead of for you.

There's also a thread called "Decent Tune-Up" or something like that. A decent tune-up would be a great way to learn about the bike and improve the riding experience.

There's another thread on shift improvement, but if you are new to motorcycle maintenance, you might not feel ready to take a pre-selector off the transmission. But when you are, people on this site will work through it with you.

And for other maintenance - I would change all three oils (engine, transmission, and final drive). And flush all three hydraulic fluids (clutch, front brake, rear brake). The clutch is kind of a bugger, but you can get an extension hose that makes it easier for this and future fluid changes. And if you don't know the bike's history, it might be time for new oil in the forks.

 

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I would also advise dropping the sump first time.

 

Once you have decided on a new filter, take it to an auto parts store and select a stamped metal type filter wrench that matches the flutes on the filter. They are cheap and operate with your ratchet handle. This will come in very handy when you decide to go through the manhole to change the next filter. Also that manhole cover uses a special tool you can get here or make one with a bolt/nut like I did before I bought the tool.

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=2695

The manhole cover has very fine threads and can be easily buggered so be patient replacing it.

 

 

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The learning curve is steep.

Clutch: As to the clutch, I recently had trouble with air in the line. Removed the rear wheel so that my fumble fingers could get in there. Most do not have to, but it is a bit of a wrestle to reach the bleeder screw. I thought, the line goes upward - all the air is at the master on the handlebar. So, I installed a bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master and all is happy motoring since. 

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Oil: Inside the oil sump is a screen. Since you might be in there, good time to check it and clean it, since the bike has only been ridden 1,100-1.200 miles per year or so. Since the oil filter mounts top up, I fill the filter with oil when installing a new one. Just that  much less time for pressure to build once you start it. I use HifloFiltro HF551 filters, which are generally pretty well regarded. Use a good oil for flat tappets (like Harley oil, diesel engine oil or similar) with enough zinc to protect your cam.

Shifting: A couple of "post-Guzzi engineer" members here have brainstormed a few things for shifting. First - in your case - would be the bolt-on "Lucky Phil Extender" which shortens the throw of the shift lever. That is half your problem. And, as I have been well advised, it is also a big help to preload the shifter with your toe just before clutching. That helps all that mechanism into motion when the time comes.

The other is a shift mechanism spring, which most of us will need at one point - but it requires quite a bit more digging into the trans. For a tune up, you might try some iridium plugs, as I found quicker starts/less cranking. The rest is in the "Decent Tuneup" thread.  Gives you something to do with all of your spare time :rolleyes:

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10 hours ago, mikev said:

Since buying my v11 sport earlier this year I've logged about ~750 miles.  Bike has ~25.5k miles now.  I got it at ~24.75k  Things I've noticed include, sometimes bike sputters out and stalls at low idle.  Occasionally I accidentally "find" a neutral gear where it should not be when shifting.  The neutral light works sometimes, usually when bike is warmed up it stops lighting up.  And, sometimes putting the kickstand down when in gear turns engine off and sometimes it doesn't. 

 

This could be a sticking Neutral Switch (located on the left of the gearbox beneath the starter.  Often a gearoil change solves this, most often reported with a switch to RedLine ShockProof (I prefer the "LightWeight"/blue). Otherwise, the single female spade connector to the switch, under its rubber boot, is susceptible to connections issues. Clean, crimp, and seal the area with Vaseline® or equivalent.  The middle relay could also be suspect (as could be all of the relays, but that is another matter, perhaps).

Scud suggested this maintenance procedure.( I concur! ) :

 

 

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I'd do a tune up and to try to keep the engine from dying.  At least put new plugs in it- they're about $2/ea at Oreilly's.   Clean some connections and for sure carry some spare relays with you and clean those contacts. 

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I bought 5 relays on ebay after wading thru the forum relay threads for a while.  Cheap ones from China should arrive in a couple weeks.  Others listed were $20 ea.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115003630292  got 5 for ~$26 with shipping.

Also ordered the manhole cover tool and will change the oil and do some other maintenance after it arrives. 

 

 

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Take my advice- since I'm probably only the latest in a long history of sufferers- use Craig DeOxit on all your relay terminals and use silicone (dielectric) grease when you assemble them. I chased gremlins for a long time, rejecting advice here from multiple sources, which turned out to be dirty relay contacts. Despite changing relays multiple times with the last time to the hard-to-find Omrons, nothing fixed it all until I cleaned and sealed the contacts properly.

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54 minutes ago, mikev said:

I bought 5 relays on ebay after wading thru the forum relay threads for a while.  Cheap ones from China should arrive in a couple weeks.  Others listed were $20 ea.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115003630292  got 5 for ~$26 with shipping.

I highly doubt the relays on that listing are the real thing, made in US Omrons that is. Omron label is obscured in picture and no mention of it in description either. In fact it states "unbranded" in "Item specifics"..

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