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V11 Sport - Oil FIlter Change


jsciullo

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Guest azccj

My underseat factory tool kit came with the tool to remove the oil filter access cover. It's on the oppisite side of the spark plug wrench it's a perfect fit and works great. Mine is a 2003 so I don't know if they changed something for that year. I'm glad I looked at the tool kit before I bought or fabrcated the tool. I decided not to use the regular MG filter, not because it cost $18.00 from the dealer but because I couldn't find a wrench to remove it. I got the Walmart filter and then bought a steel filter wrench from checker which worked perfectly.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

My underseat factory tool kit came with the tool to remove the oil filter access cover. It's on the oppisite side of the spark plug wrench it's a perfect fit and works great. Mine is a 2003 so I don't know if they changed something for that year. I'm glad I looked at the tool kit before I bought or fabrcated the tool. I decided not to use the regular MG filter, not because it cost $18.00 from the dealer but because I couldn't find a wrench to remove it. I got the Walmart filter and then bought a steel filter wrench from checker which worked perfectly.

What is checker?

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What is checker?

 

Checker is the name of an auto parts supply chain if I remember correctly.

 

I used the infamous Wallyworld filter myself and found a wrench that fits it perfectly hanging on a hook next to the filters. Excellent fit.

 

Good luck! Dennis.

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  • 4 years later...

I didn't get a tool when I purchased my V11 Sport and I don't have easy access to a welder so I used a bolt and nuts with 27 mm heads in the configuration shown in the pics. Lock washer between the nuts prevents nut slippage (I hate when that happens!!)... Cost me $7.00 at Ace hardware. Works great!

Pic1.jpg

Pic2.jpg

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  • 4 years later...

Getting the cover off is easy compared to removal of the filter itself. I thought the tool kit had the wrench on the other side of the spark plug wrench. Even then, if you're struggling just take the whole sump off.

 

I remember when I undertook my first service for this bike (bought used and it's 14 years old) the bloomin' filter was an original UFI. Which has 14 flutes - it seems in the US market a lot of you guys using Walmart/Fram or whatever with 7/8/9 flutes. Hey ho. But this filter and the new official UFI replacement both had 14 flutes anyway...which makes them darn near completely round. And there's no nut on the top of the filter or anything to help you unscrew them.

 

but that shouldn't be a problem right? Common practice is to grease the filter seal and screw on hand tight...so this should be a cinch. Not so. I sweated and strained.

THEN I used a strap-type filter wrench but it just slipped around the filter (it's nearly completely round and quite oily).

THEN I took a chisel, punctured the side of the filter and tried to knock it round. But the chisel just chewed up the filter housing (it's pretty soft) without turning the filter off! How tight must this thing have been screwed on?

THEN with the outer housing now seriously roughed up the oil filter/strap wrench could actually grip the thing and twist it off.

 

I put this down to the level of thought most tradies are capable of and "have a go heroes" in New Zealand. They have this mentality of tightening everything up as much as they can... "you don't want it to fall off, do you mate?" Undoing rocker cover bolts, oil sump bolts, everything just a PITA. No grease on any of the bolts, all hard stainless bolts screwed as hard as possible into an alloy casting. Geez. Gorillas the lot of them.

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I just drop the pan.  The first time, I was able to replace the filter through than manhole but couldn't thread it back on.  I think once I was able to compete the filter change.  Last time 2 times, I just dropped the pan and secured it with a hose clamp. 

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How tight? One and one-eighth turns after the (oiled) gasket touches.

 

Second (fourth, fifth?) -hand bike needs a change? Drop the sump and take a good look. Some well-meaning chap may have cinched it with a hose clamp!

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  • 8 years later...

Thought I'd read up on oil change before I did mine this year.  I have all the supplies, including sump gasket.  Seems like some folks say its an annual thing regardless of mileage and others change oil every 5,000 miles and the filter every 10,000 Is this correct?  I changed the oil and filter at 26.5k miles about a year and a half ago.  Now at 28.2k.

Has a consensus been reached here over the years on how often to change the oil and filter?

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Which is cheaper , an oil change or an engine rebuild ? 

 We were w/o electricity for about 30 days one winter , I changed the oil daily on a 8500w generator. This was a small gas powered generator and I was taking NO chances .  I have never seen an engine failure from frequent oil changes . 

 On that bike , I would do oil changes every 2500 and oil/filter changes at 5k. You better get accustomed to how tight to get a filter. I have a great oil filter wrench from SnapOn and I will get the part # .  OK ,it is a SnapOn OFCA 1 or OFCA 2. The only way to go !

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GASKET REMINDER! Just pulled my HiFlo Filtro out and the rubber gasket remained in the engine. I noticed that as I tipped the filter over to empty it. The gasket came right off of the filter boss, but I seem to remember someone having oil light issues related to threading a new filter and gasket over the old stuck gasket. Best to check the bike's prostate and do the finger wave around the filter gasket boss. 

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Hi,

I pull the pan on my V11 Lemans when replacing the filter.  The original owner put a hose clamp on the filter to keep it from working itself loose so I kept up with the technique.  With the hose clamp the filter can't be removed through the filter port in the pan.  Plus, I think he may have boogered up the filter cover threads or pan threads...I've not attempted to remove round port cover.

I also use a hose clamp on the filter of my LMIV & Eldo.  My experience has been that the rubber oil filter base gasket looses tension between filter changes.  The hose clamp keeps the filter from rotating loose as the base gasket tension diminishes.  As long as the filter doesn't rotate theres a good chance oil pressure won't diminish to critical low levels.  My personal experiences with my older MG's has been that the filter is nowhere near as tight when I go to remove it as it was when I installed it.  However, since I replace the filter every 2nd oil change maybe the base gaskets have improved over the years and it will be different once I exhaust my current filter inventory.  IDK.

Art

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54 minutes ago, guzziart said:

Hi,

I pull the pan on my V11 Lemans when replacing the filter.  The original owner put a hose clamp on the filter to keep it from working itself loose so I kept up with the technique.  With the hose clamp the filter can't be removed through the filter port in the pan.  Plus, I think he may have boogered up the filter cover threads or pan threads...I've not attempted to remove round port cover.

I also use a hose clamp on the filter of my LMIV & Eldo.  My experience has been that the rubber oil filter base gasket looses tension between filter changes.  The hose clamp keeps the filter from rotating loose as the base gasket tension diminishes.  As long as the filter doesn't rotate theres a good chance oil pressure won't diminish to critical low levels.  My personal experiences with my older MG's has been that the filter is nowhere near as tight when I go to remove it as it was when I installed it.  However, since I replace the filter every 2nd oil change maybe the base gaskets have improved over the years and it will be different once I exhaust my current filter inventory.  IDK.

Art

I always have been under the assumption those oil filters are supposed to be hand tight. Even if it "does not feel right"...

This is a subject of endless discussions across every forum.

On my V11, I do "reasonably" hand tight, and so far, did not notice anything astray.

Using a worm clamp around the filter feels "overkill". The fine thread pitch of the oil filter access makes it easy to damage. They should have opted for a coarser one, making it easier to engage.

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54 minutes ago, p6x said:

They should have opted for a coarser one, making it easier to engage.

I think it is a fine thread for a very good reason. Confirmation, for instance, here:

Quote

Finer threads are stronger as they have a larger stress area for the same diameter thread. Fine threads are less likely to vibrate loose as they have a smaller helix angle and allow finer adjustment. Finer threads develop greater preload with less tightening torque.[5]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread#Coarse_versus_fine

 

or here:

Quote

Superfine pitch metric threads are ... commonly used in the aviation manufacturing industry. This is because extra fine threads are more resistant to coming loose from vibrations.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread#Preferred_sizes

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