Guest Steve T. Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Can someone who services their own bike help me here? Some questions on valve adjustments from a new owner: Are you removing the fairing or just the bolts above the valve covers and moving the plastic up to reach the valve cover bolts? Do you re-torque the heads on each valve adjustment? Do you have to remove the rocker arm to access all the head bolts? What's the clearance specs for intake & exhaust? What are the torque values for head bolts, rocker arm bolts, and valve covers? I want to perform my maintenance at home and follow the factory specs the best I can. Thanks, Steve T sthoerner@peoplepc.com 2002 red/grey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtucker Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Well, I can't answer your Le Mans-specific questions, but here is some general info: Head retorque: I'm not sure if it's required anymore, but it is a good idea to retorque the heads on the first valve check. After that, you shouldn't have to worry about it - unless you are really bored and have some time to kill. Rocker arms: yes, you have to remove them to get to all the head bolts. Also, the top-center bolt is under a cap, and needs to be adjusted using a allen key. Clearance specs (US): intake: 0.002" (0.05mm), exhaust: 0.004" (0.10mm) Clearance specs (rest of world): intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm) Note: the only reason the US spec is tighter is because of EPA regulations. Do yourself (and your bike) a favor and use the looser "world spec". And remember, "a tappy valve is a happy valve!" I don't recall the torque values, but I can look them up in my manual at home. For some reason, I'm thinking 22 ft/lbs for the head bolts, BUT I COULD BE WRONG! Rocker arm bolts are not a big deal... it is basically a set screw that holds the rocker in place. I've never used a torque wrench for this. Same for the valve cover screws. However, keep in mind that with the covers, the screws are going into aluminum - very easy to strip. I tend to err on the side of caution. Perhaps someone else on the board can offer some proper numbers here. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichMaund Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Jason is correct with his info. I set up my bike exactly like that. The 22 ft/lbs is correct for the head nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Squashed Nose Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 22lbs/ft sounds terribly light for head bolts. Don't get me wrong, I'm no authority but the head bolts on my BMW 320i were up at 150lbs/ft. It took some straining to get them done up, believe me and there were 14 of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtucker Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 22lbs/ft sounds terribly light for head bolts. Don't get me wrong, I'm no authority but the head bolts on my BMW 320i were up at 150lbs/ft. It took some straining to get them done up, believe me and there were 14 of them. No... that doesn't sound right. I don't even think any of my torque wrenches read up to 150 ft/lbs! __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 Hey, I FINALLY remembered to look it up while at the house (I bought a shop manual for mine). 40 N.M, or 29.5 foot.pounds. The reason I remembered is that I had to retorque the heads on my Eldo- 28.5 foot pounds. The last sentance is just to confuse you... That's me...Agent of Chaos . Cheers, Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest k.tx Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 My thought about retorquing the heads: If you check the valves and they aren't out of alignment, leave it alone. If you see the valves go constantly out of alignment re-torque the heads. On my Quota the heads had to be retorqued after about 8k miles or so and since then the valve slash hardly drifts of. Because of the wear on the rockerarms, where it pushes on the valve stem, you may considere to have the backlash a bit tighter to balance with increasing mileage. On my V11 Sport I had no drift at all so far with 3k2 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 Steve, You may find this helpful, follow the link below: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CCItal...ianBikes/files/ Then select Guzzi Modifications & Maintenance Then select V11ValvesTourque.html Let me know what you think, Lex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SteveT Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 Finally, some clear instructions. This was exactly the kind of detail I was looking for. Thanks very much. It's really great that the time was taken to document this with the pictures. If you do it yourself you know it's done correctly. Thanks again, Steve Thoerner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jaap Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 Excellent work Lex. Can I put up a link in the FAQ section? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 Jaap, Please put up a link. I did this for two reasons. The first was selfish, I wrote manuals and training documents in a previous life (for Cisco) and found the best way to learn something was to try to explain it. The second was that Guzzi people have been great in my four moths of Guzzi ownership and I thought this might be a good way to do something positive for the Guzzi folks who have been so nice to me. I'll try to do a few more of this type of page as I learn how to do some of the basic maintenance on my Goose. Finally, PLEASE let me know if you find any errors or thing I could improve any of my pages. I used to have a non-geek (a guy who went to college and came out with a degree in English of all things* ) and a very close relationship with the development engineers to keep me accurate, I only have you folks now. Cheers, Lex * American Geek humor: Q: What are the words most often spoken by a liberal arts major after graduation? A: Would you like fries with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SteveT Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 I'd like to add another plug for the quality Lex put into developing this instruction. Riders out there, do yourself a favor and look this instruction over...even if you don't do the work yourself it's great to know exactly what should be done when your bike is serviced. Thanks, Steve Thoerner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest trispeed Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 the valve clearance specs listed here are wrong. The sticker on my bike (US/ california spec, 2004 model v 11 sport) says .15mm IN; .20mm EX what's wrong with the recommended values? they also say 5/40 oil, there's a point of contention for the shadetree mechanics here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rosso mandello Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 the valve clearance specs listed here are wrong. The sticker on my bike (US/ california spec, 2004 model v 11 sport) says .15mm IN; .20mm EXwhat's wrong with the recommended values? they also say 5/40 oil, there's a point of contention for the shadetree mechanics here! 84668[/snapback] I just set my Rosso Mandello on ,15 and .20, I have a fine stady idle and no noice from the valve cover, Runs great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest trispeed Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 moi oci! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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