Mike Stewart Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 David, The metal jacket is to help keep the battery plates squezzed together and is a must for high tempertures (expansion) or heavy vibration. Many Harleys had battery failures due to the vibration jarring the plates loose in the battery. My 2000 V11 Sport battery just took a sh%t , so now it is time for an Odyssey. You can buy them on ebay all week long for about $50.00 and with a two year warrantee! They say the stock batterys are a gel type and do not leak. My V11 Sport has a white fungus that is coming from the battery and has leaked onto the battery holder. Time to neutralize it and finally make a new battery holder that sits abit lower toward the shock. Mike I apologize. I was wrong about the metal jacket version being for cold weather.I guess it is for high heat conditions, like close to an engine. Operating temp. plastic case only -40 degrees C to + 60 degrees C -40 C degrees to + 80 degrees C with metal jacket 40572[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 The metal jacket version is a little bigger, so if your seat won't close, you would have to lower the holder as Mike suggested or maybe remove the rubber tray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormsedge Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 Does anyone know of a battery/battery cable or wire quick-disconnect that one could splice in the positive side? Would like to permanently mount battery tender wiring, but be able to disconnect positive side downstream a bit to protect tender electrical bits while charger is operating. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 The ECU is isolated from the battery by a relay when the ignition is off. That should ease your mind a tad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 The ECU is isolated from the battery by a relay when the ignition is off. That should ease your mind a tad. Part of the ECU is isolated from the battery by relay when the ignition is off, but there is a direct line between the battery and the ECU. Pulling the number one fuse (5A) before removing battery or charging is a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Part of the ECU is isolated from the battery by relay when the ignition is off, but there is a direct line between the battery and the ECU. Pulling the number one fuse (5A) before removing battery or charging is a good idea. Mea Culpa. Pull fuse #1. Dave is correct. You'd think I know how to read a schematic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wick Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I've put Edge-guards and battery tender leads on all three of my V11 variants. I finally learned to grab the stack of terminals with a pair of hemostats to hold them together before unscrewing the fastener. It made it really easy to keep the original orientation and order. Of course, do the ground lead first to avoid shorting the battery. Wick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 I finally learned to grab the stack of terminals with a pair of hemostats to hold them together before unscrewing the fastener. Great idea! I have so many terminals now. I have an extra for my headlight relays, for my aftermarket alternator and for the charger. I did move all the ground wires to ground at the frame and then ran one wire from that frame point to the battery. Works swell, but juggling the positive terminal wires is still a pain. I was thinking of moving some of those wire to the starter hot lead, but then it would be a greater pain to remove the starter....can't win. But the hemostats may do the trick or maybe needle nose vice-grips Of course, do the ground lead first to avoid shorting the battery. Of course that is ground leads first when removing, and ground leads last when reattaching the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VA Sean Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Man I wish I had read this thread prior to replacing my battery... Since the Odessey uses a hex (allen) wrench to fasten instead of a screwdriver (like the stock battery), getting the connections cinched up was a total pain in the ass! Oh well -- Oh - my stock battery (on a 2004 bike) lasted only until December 2006. POS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeV11 Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 Since the Odessey uses a hex (allen) wrench to fasten instead of a screwdriver (like the stock battery), getting the connections cinched up was a total pain in the ass! I found ball-end allen wrenches ease this, but the hemostat idea will really help. I have to re-do mine to add a headlight relay. Oh - my stock battery (on a 2004 bike) lasted only until December 2006. POS! Mine was DOA when I took delivery in Sept 2006, never held a charge. I finally got an Odessey this winter and it is holding up so far. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VA Sean Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 I found ball-end allen wrenches ease this, but the hemostat idea will really help. I have to re-do mine to add a headlight relay. Mine was DOA when I took delivery in Sept 2006, never held a charge. I finally got an Odessey this winter and it is holding up so far. Joe Yep- ball-end allens are on my list of "tools to buy" I just didn't know I needed them so soon! Like you, I will be installing a relay soon (meaning, when I get around to it) for the Freeway Blasters I bought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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