Guest KingKraz Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Hey all, I'm new to this site; 1st post! I'm a regular at www.sport-touring.net. Anyway, I just picked up an '01 V11 Sport and have a few issues. My speedo bounces like a mad man; I hear that guzzi speedos are notoriously messed up, but it sounds like a screwy cable to me. Anyone have this problem? Fixed it? Brake light only works with the rear brake. I guess the front switch isn't working or something. Suggestions? Parts: Anyone know where I can get stuff like oil filters and stuff online? I'm also looking at getting a windscreen and cleaning up the rear end a little in terms of the fender, brake light, and blinkers. Service schedule: I'm wondering if anyone has a map of what needs to be done how often. Drive shaft lube, oil changes, valve checks, etc. I looke forward to being on this site a bunch. I LOVE my guzzi and hope I can clear up some of these issues soon. Thanks! kraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 You don't say where you are. In the UK Motomecca are good for online stuff and do a nice colour matched screen for the V11 Sport. I bought one and fitting was very easy. For such a small screen its surprising how much the wind blast is reduced. I have also had parts from The Motor Works. http://www.motomeccaspares.co.uk/ http://www.motorworks.co.uk/guzzi/ Servicing is basically lube changes every 6000 miles (engine, tranny and final drive) Valve checks every 12,000 and grease the driveshaft every 24,000 according to my owners manual. I have a spare V11 owners manual if you need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 How the speedo cable is positioned is critical for the speedo. My front brake switch went out of 20something thousand miles....still on order. But I have not heard it to be a very common problem. Somewhat common, yah. Maybe the brembo switches that are activated by fluid pressure are more reliable???? I really want to go LED in the stoplight to reduce the amp load on the switches, but I may get a dedicated relay for the brake light....or not. (too lazy) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KingKraz Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Nogbad, I'd love to get your spare manual. I'm in California, USA, so I'll be happy to pay shipping or send you something in exchange. The bike's got 20,000 miles, so maybe the brake switches suck too. I wonder if it's possible to just put on a pressure switch for the light. I'll look at the speedo cable. Today I ordered a Fast By Ferraci Fender eliminator, so I'll look into some blinkers and perhaps a windscreen. Shiny side up, rubber side down, kraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Kraz, PM me with your address and I'll post the manual over to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 In the US, you can get parts at www.mgcycle.com mph cycles carries some cool stuff as well; www.mphcycles.com and Todd Haven (owner) has been a great supporter of this website. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Welcome Kraz ...take minute and pop into our "introduction" section and tell us a bit more about yourself, where you live, etc It's definitely great to see another ST'er over here, say hi to ksann WRT your questions, I think they've been answered from a high level. But there is a bit more depth to all of them scattered about. A quick search of the forum for "cable", etc... will probably turn up several threads on the problematic speedo cable for example. Whats interesting is that the Veglia speedo hasn't really been a problem for anyone AFAIK, although the Tach has a horrendous track record. As mentioned, with the speedo, the cable is almost always the culprit. On your model, the angle drive on the transmission sometimes "explodes" and/or if the cable is poorly routed(which doesn't take much), the speedo will behave as you describe. Later models, 2003+, changed the angle drive to a simple bent tube for the cable, but that too had issues... As far as fender eliminators, yes the FBF kit is probably the cheapest and most simple. Check out the fender-eliminator FAQ for more options: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=460 WRT to the front brake switch, the little switches on the our bikes' levers are also notorious for getting fouled with dirt/debris... even bugs. I'd check out the switch to see if the wiring or mechanism is gunked up. I'm sure someone will chime in on their standard maintenance schedule, but the MG is so basic that it can vary quite a bit. Most guys just do the "major" stuff once a year when Winter arrives, and do the standard oil changes every month or few thousand miles depending on how/where they ride. But, the manual you are being sent will clue you in on some of that. Additionally you should get "Guzziology" the bible of MG maintenance/repair. It is written by Dave Richardson of Moto International in Seattle, and can be had on Amazon. And yeah, parts... again, where do you live? I see that you are in CA, but where? As mentioned, online, MG Cycle, MPH, and Moto International are great sources for our bikes, and aftermarket sites like FBF have goodies too. However, depending where you live, you may have a dealer or two local to you we can recommend. Well, hope that helps a little, and welcome again... Hope to hear more from you, and if you are in Northern CA, maybe once everyone finally has their bikes back together up here... we can have a ride again Cheers al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Oh yah, One of the possible speedo failures is caused by the pressed fitting at the lower elbow(where the cable meets the gearbox) Solution: just press it back together and be sure that when you reassemble the spinning square thingy seats itself properly in the the gearbox, otherwise it will force the fitting apart, again... This usually results in no speedo, rather than a bouncy needle. So, it probably is not your bike's problem. But good to know about! Tip courtesy of Mike Stewart if I recall correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KingKraz Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Thanks for all the responses guys! I'm specifically in Lemoore, CA, which is halfway between Fresno and Bakersfield. I ride all over and get as much in as I can. I know ksann from ST.N, and he's been giving me some advice on the guzzi as well. Anyway, good to see another great site. You guys rock! Ciao, kraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stewart Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 The speedo cable is the first place to attack, one problem area is where the cable rubs against the headlamp housing. This puts alot of side pressure on the cable as it snakes its way up to the speedo head. When my speedo was jumping like crazzy , I replaced the cable and the needle still jumped. The speedo was then replaced and it cured the problem. You may be able to have the speedo repaired but expect to pay $160.00 for starters. I have had good luck finding speedo's and tachs on ebay. I usually stay at Harris Ranch when I go down south, not too far from Lemoor. I think I will be staying there one night when I go down to the Guzzi rally at the end of this month. Hope to see you there. Good luck, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stewart Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Oh yeah, On the front brake switch thing, If I remember correctly there is a small little ball (which usually falls out and rolls somewhere which is impossible to get to) which sits against the brake lever and pushes against the switch to close the contact. If someone removed the brake lever, the little ball may of fell out and this could be why your switch does not work. There is also a little adjustability of the brake switch by loosening up the tiny, tiny screws and moving the switch. You should hear a faint click by the switch when the brake lever is pulled in. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KingKraz Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 I can hear the faint click, so I'm not sure that it needs adjustment. I read somewhere about the little ball in another thread, so if I ever get a few minutes I'll try and take that whole area apart and clean. kraz There is also a little adjustability of the brake switch by loosening up the tiny, tiny screws and moving the switch. You should hear a faint click by the switch when the brake lever is pulled in. Mike 45075[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 If you can hear the faint click the mechanical operation is ok, so the ball should be present and correct. Therefore, don't take it apart!. If the switch is clicking you may have a wiring problem, so the next job is to get a continuity meter and measure the resistance across the switch. It should be infinite and then show a short circuit when you pull the lever. If that is ok, the wiring between switch and brake light or between battery live and switch is broken. Check for a broken / loose / disconnected or corroded connector. I am posting the manual today, and there is a wiring diagram in the back of it. The red-black wire to the switch is the 12V and the red-blue is the feed to the stop lamp. You should be able to find the relevant connector near the front of the bike. It should be a 5 pin with colours red-blue, Red-black, white-brown, white-black, and solid white wires. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poh Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 hi, also new member with -01 V11 sport. The front breake light switch is a standard micro gap switch. Mine went dead after 500 km (!) from new. I took it off and got a 1-3 (varying) ohm reading across the connectors when closed (when the buttom is out). The switch is a standard item from any electronic part shop for about 10 US and should give zero ohm when closed. Dont drop the tiny ball. good luck! poh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stewart Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 If the brake switch is at fault, a cheaper replacement would be a switch from just about any Ducati. You will have to splice the two wires into the harness but it will be way cheaper and faster than ordering one from Guzzi. Once again, watch out for that little steel ball. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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