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Bar End Weights


Guest freeman

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Guest freeman

This may be an old subject, but I figured I should speak up anyway. I owned a 2003 V11 Sport (Naked) that I purchased new from Moto International in Seattle. From what I understand because mine had them, they take the initiative to exchange the stock bar end weights with a bar end weights approximately twice as heavy. I always thought the vibration in the handlebars people were talking about seemed excessive because I never had that problem.

Well I wanted a LeMans, so I sold my V11 and purchased a 2002 LeMans that came with stock bar ends.

Man what a difference. Once I figured it out what the difference was, I immediately called up Moto International and bought a pair of the heavier bar ends and it makes all the difference in the world.

If anyone feels the vibration is a little too much with stock bar ends, I highly recommend buying the heavier one's. They are black as well and look like they are stock. Best thing ever. :bike::mg::race:

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  • 2 months later...
Guest Barnapkin

I used the 14oz. throttlemeister. Got cruise control at the same time.

They say that after 5K mi the vibes are not as bad. (engine fully broken in??)

I have 9K on my lemans, and they did have less amplitude.

The're still there.

 

The nice thing about the throttlemeister is that it's fat.

I find myself gripping the throttlemeister more than the thinner throttle.

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Another great trick is to fill the handle bar with fine bird shot (#7). This has the same effect as it does in a "dead-blow" hammer, plus it's really cheap!

Use steel shot rather than (toxic) lead shot.

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This guy has interesting poop on bar-end weights

 

http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_faq.htm#bar9

 

He makes a point that added weight is most effective at the end, diminishing to zero benefit at the clamping area.

 

But if one has a choice, it seems that the ideal weight might not be exactly 12.75 ounces. Nor might the weight you end up with if you fill the whole tube with lead.

 

Rather than fill all with lead, why not add weight at the end, (duct tape?), until you reach a point at which resonance of the bar is moved below the offensive frequency, probably at cruising rpm? Then seal this weight at the end of the bar. Of course the added weight would have to be fixed at the same distance from the clamp as the test weight.

 

Just an idea I haven't tried myself. Sue me if it doesn't work.

 

Cheers

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This guy has interesting poop on bar-end weights

 

http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_faq.htm#bar9

 

He makes a point that added weight is most effective at the end, diminishing to zero benefit at the clamping area.

 

But if one has a choice, it seems that the ideal weight might not be exactly 12.75 ounces. Nor might the weight you end up with if you fill the whole tube with lead.

 

Rather than fill all with lead, why not add weight at the end, (duct tape?), until you reach a point at which resonance of the bar is moved below the offensive frequency, probably at cruising rpm? Then seal this weight at the end of the bar. Of course the added weight would have to be fixed at the same distance from the clamp as the test weight.

 

Just an idea I haven't tried myself. Sue me if it doesn't work.

 

Cheers

 

The thing about bar end dampers is that vibration is an issue of harmonics. Engine RPM is the source of the vibration and that vibration varies over the range of RPM, so no single vibrational frequency can be said to be the target of the "tuned vibrational damper" that a "specified weight" bar end weight would seek to be. As well, minor differences from machine to machine would also conspire to alter any target frequency that might be identified on any single bike.

The plasticity of the bolus of lead shot (and of the lead itself) serve to broaden the range of damping provided by the total mass of the bolus. This does provide the best damper for a given mass.

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