Guest Nogbad Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 I wonder what the difference in the bearing set-ups is? But surely you said before that yours was rusty and you cleaned it out with paraffin? I am using a marine 'waterproof' grease, though it may not be as special a spec as the one that you are refering to. I'm having second thoughts about the inner ring. Next time I think I'll change it back to one with a drilled hole. I thought the solid ring would be better to keep water out and grease in, but as the water is getting in anyway, maybe the hole will let some of it out – though where it wil end-up, I don't know. 55865[/snapback] I think the water gets in at the shaft side. There is only a plain washer between the swingarm and the inner sleeve / bearing. I have noticed that if this area starts off clean, after a few wet miles you can see a deposit of mud and grit all over it. What causes this is the short hugger, as the wheel sprays a lot of gunk up over the rear of it. This then flows off the top of the hugger, right over the end of the drive box and swingarm. If you ride in heavy rain the top of the hugger gets covered in mud. What I have done is assemble the washer with a lot of grease both sides of it. However, there is no reason why you couldn't coat the washer with silicone instant gasket instead, creating a better seal between the (stationary-ish) drive box and the swingarm. The drive box does rotate minimally relative to the swingarm as the suspension moves. I think the difference between individual bikes is down to the clearances on the drivebox / wheel stacked length relative to the spindle / bearing / spacer set stacked length. This would define the likely gap at the washer end. You could try a thin rubber shim or a small gauge "o" ring at the swingarm side of the washer to keep the washer pressed up against the drive box and seal the swingarm end. See if you can get a feeler between the washer and drive box or swingarm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 What I have done is assemble the washer with a lot of grease both sides of it. However, there is no reason why you couldn't coat the washer with silicone instant gasket instead, creating a better seal between the (stationary-ish) drive box and the swingarm. See if you can get a feeler between the washer and drive box or swingarm. 55877[/snapback] There definitely isn't a good seal or any chance of it, mechanically, between the washer and the drive box end. Someone posted about later versions of this bearing having a rubber seal . I wondered about silicone – more in terms of wrapping it around the outside rather than coating the washer. I don't think it's great in such a high pressure area as it tears, but I'm also thinking of Hermitite, probably Golden Hermitite, to seal the washer / drive box / swing arm gaps. I've removed the hugger (so it's me rather than the drive box collecting all the crud!) and I suspect that water is working in just as it falls from the sky, whether the bike is moving or not. What do you reckon about Hermitite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 What do you reckon about Hermitite? 55880[/snapback] The only gunk with enough flexibility is a silicone. Hermtite "Instant gasket" would be ok. Golden and red grades are just jointing pastes and the danger of using much of that is it could go in amongst the rollers and jam the bearing. I can move the drive box to an fro only slightly, and can only get an 0.25mm feeler between washer and box or swingarm. Why not try a bead of silicone round the outside of the gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 The only gunk with enough flexibility is a silicone. Hermtite "Instant gasket" would be ok. Golden and red grades are just jointing pastes and the danger of using much of that is it could go in amongst the rollers and jam the bearing. I can move the drive box to an fro only slightly, and can only get an 0.25mm feeler between washer and box or swingarm. Why not try a bead of silicone round the outside of the gap? 55883[/snapback] I've just done that. I came in to post that you're probably right about the silicone – there isn't, of course, any pressure on the washer. What I've done is put silicone around the outside and then wrap with a silicone self-adhesive tape. Should help keep the rain out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 I've just done that. I came in to post that you're probably right about the silicone – there isn't, of course, any pressure on the washer. What I've done is put silicone around the outside and then wrap with a silicone rubber self-adhesive tape. Should help keep the rain out. 55885[/snapback] Will be interesting to see how the different approaches work. I shall probably check mine again and regrease in 3.5K miles when I do the 12K service. Then the next time will probably be around 16K when the current 020 rear will probably need a change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 Just whack plenty of grease in there, it'll be fine. Keep it greased and it'll not matter if there's water getting in, as long as it isn't allowed to collect and lie there it wont matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Just whack plenty of grease in there, it'll be fine. Keep it greased and it'll not matter if there's water getting in, as long as it isn't allowed to collect and lie there it wont matter. 55905[/snapback] I definitely used too much grease in the whole shebang, first time around. The stuff works its way out and flings everywhere (while, preversely, the water stays in). I have to say, the silicone tape is looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I have an SKF 6204 RSH/C3 fitted R side rear. I just had another L side brng go bad (it lasted 10k miles this time). I noticed brng wasn't marked w/C3 spec. Spoke w/ brng factor - C3 indicates extra clearance between balls/races (to accomodate heat expansion). Are std Guzzi brngs C3 - anyone got std bearings can check ? If they are spec'd - is it to allow for heat or poor manufacturing tolerances on related parts? Anyhow - I'm putting a C3 bearing in & see how it goes. (I already made spacer to be light interference fit w/ brngs). KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I have an SKF 6204 RSH/C3 fitted R side rear. I just had another L side brng go bad (it lasted 10k miles this time). I noticed brng wasn't marked w/C3 spec. Spoke w/ brng factor - C3 indicates extra clearance between balls/races (to accomodate heat expansion). Are std Guzzi brngs C3 - anyone got std bearings can check ? If they are spec'd - is it to allow for heat or poor manufacturing tolerances on related parts? Anyhow - I'm putting a C3 bearing in & see how it goes. (I already made spacer to be light interference fit w/ brngs). KB 56177[/snapback] The standard bearing that I have here is 6204 – 2RS1 / C3 There are some other letters on the new bearing box after C3: C3Q86 possibly – I can't quite make out the two last numbers. The bigger 6304 is also a C3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 see how it goes. KB 56177[/snapback] P.S. If it's back together, are you intending to go to Scotland? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 The standard bearing that I have here is 6204 – 2RS1 / C3 There are some other letters on the new bearing box after C3: C3Q86 possibly – I can't quite make out the two last numbers. The bigger 6304 is also a C3 56184[/snapback] C3 is the tolerance grade. A C3 bearing has increased internal clearance to account for either a heavy press fit, or high temperature service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gh67 Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 All you wanted to know about newer style bearings....my head started to hurt after about the 3rd page....but sounds like the RSL C3 is the way to go. Now...where to buy them? Any reason to get different bore size? http://www.skf.cz/katalogy/dd8063e.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 All you wanted to know about newer style bearings....my head started to hurt after about the 3rd page....but sounds like the RSL C3 is the way to go. ....etc../quote] Couldn't get your link to work but I checked SKF site .....more information than you could hope to take in in a lifetime.... In list, only spec difference on RSL to others is limiting speed rating (20k over 10K or 17K). Is that why you chose that one? I couldn't find where it explained suffixes RSL, RSH etc. I understood these referred to seals. Broken bearing was RSR (not C3, not SKF). Can anyone explain RSR etc suffixes? I have a new FAG 6204 RSR.C3 to fit. What do you mean re different bore size? I once thought a wheel bearing was just a wheel bearing - look at the SKF site & be awed. Given the no. of different 6204 type bearings from this one manuf alone - maybe some bearing failures are simply cos the wrong bearing is fitted? It's not for the fainthearted to venture into the world of Bearing Man...if only someone would guide us back to the true & righteous path of oe fitment only.....& if only Guzzi would manuf parts to spec.... KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 In list, only spec difference on RSL to others is limiting speed rating (20k over 10K or 17K). Is that why you chose that one? I couldn't find where it explained suffixes RSL, RSH etc. I understood these referred to seals. 56206[/snapback] The RSI is old technology, which is what we have OEM. The RSL is low friction. The RSH is better sealing. To keep out water, salt, etc. http://www.skf.com/files/152471.pdf At NAPA a 2RSJ just means a double sealed SKF RSI bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 I would have thought it best to go for the most effective sealing option. The bearing speed in a wheel is low. At 100mph the rear wheel is only turning at about 1500 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now