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Guest redguzziv10

Swing Arm Bearings

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So how did you get it out then?

 

I gave up trying myself eventually- I even tried an expanding anchor bolt on the end of a 10mm threaded rod as a kind of slide hammer but the anchor bolt wasn't up to it - kept slipping out. I wasn't prepared to shell out for a pukka slide hammer with bearing extractor (100s of quid for quality kit) so in the end took the swinging arm to the local jobbing mechanic. As the paint needed re-doing anyway I gave him free hand with the torch but he still had to grind a bit out from the outer races and collapse them. A tribute to his skills that he didn't mark the arm itself apart from burnt paint. He said they were the toughest bearings he could remember having to extract (mainly down to the width and especially the blind drive side) and he's been doing it all his life.

 

I take my hat off to you sah!

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I have my swingarm off, and noticed the drive side bearing sticks and is notchy.  I found all these horrible threads about removing them, so I'll probably make a visit to a machine shop to get the old one out.  

MG Cycle has what redguzziv10 found, same id numbers stamped on them, $55 each  :homer:

http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2838

 

Here's a link to the company tech specs about the bearing:

 

http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/ball-bearings/angular-contact-ball-bearings/double-row/index.html?prodid=124003303&imperial=false

 

And here's one with the same dimensions (note I'm not claiming that they have the same load specs, I don't see those listed) but only $10 each

 

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-574/5303-dsh-2RS-Radial-Ball-Bearing/Detail

 

There might be others, I had limited success with google searches.  Anyone replace these with something non-oem?  Needle or cylinder bearings would be nice considering the mass being carried by them.

 

 

in case anyone is as stupid as me...
The swing arm bearings are
SKF
ID = 3303
part = A-2RSITN9/MT33

Apparently the important bit is the MT33 bit. Stands for high speed grease wacko.gif
and they're a sun'fabitch to get out!

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My bearing were rusty, one side very notchy to remove I welded a nut to the center of the bearing and screwed a bolt in to act like a puller. They were hard to move but gave with a breaker bar on the bolt and no damage to the swing arm.

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No matter which bearing you install , pry the rubber seal off the bearing and fill the bearing with grease , then push the seal back in place.Practice on the old bearing to become familiar with what you are doing. Filling this space in the bearing will prevent any future problems

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Not sure tapered rollers will do - you'd need to put the thrust on them for them to work properly and I don't think you can get that with the pork chop design. I thought perhaps double row taper rollers, but couldn't find anything in the catalogue that would fit or convert and I'm not sufficient an engineer to work it out.

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Any thoughts on which bearings to use? Anyone know what tapered roller bearings might fit?

 Remove one without destroying it and go to a bearing supply warehouse or a GOOD automotive parts store.

If you have enough money anything will work....

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I ended up ordering two replacement bearings that I found online, same dimensions and construction.  from www.thebigbearingstore.com

 

The Big Bearing Store Items
        2 5303-2RS Radial Ball Bearing 17X47X22.2 @ $10.32 = $20.64

 

Hopefully they work well, two with shipping for half the cost of one from an online guzzi parts dealer.  Now to just get them greased and mounted. :)

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No matter which bearing you install , pry the rubber seal off the bearing and fill the bearing with grease , then push the seal back in place.Practice on the old bearing to become familiar with what you are doing. Filling this space in the bearing will prevent any future problems

The rubber seals on these came off easily enough. Would you do anything to clean out the old supposed cheap grease or just fill liberally with good stuff? 

 

It only took the machine shop I brought the swing arm to 2 weeks to get the old bearings out. Hopefully the new ones go in easily for them. 

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A good grease will do. You can leave X grease in the cavity and fill it up. These are not a constant rotating bearing. In the case of a wheel bearing too much grease is as bad as too little. Too much grease will cause the bearing to run too hot and bad things happen !

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While diving into my clutch and sealing up all the oil weeps, I discovered the need for swing arm bearings. I remember gstallons' advice to fully grease the new bearings  (USA-made SKF replacements, Guzzi part [ 92 21 8418 ] from MotoInternational, Seattle,WA,USA $48.13US each).

 

For the bearing seals, what to pry the edge up with: a pick, a blade, a little screwdriver? And pry from the inside edge or the outside?

 

I've been warming the old bearings and swingarm with a heat gun every day  for a week and applying penetrating oil (first PB-Blaster and now ATF/acetone) in hopes of a happy result with the slide hammer tomorrow. Prepared for an epic struggle. We shall see . . .

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I have never tried to get grease inside a sealed bearing - but I do grease the mating surfaces to ease installation.

 

For removal - heat the swingarm around the bearing, maybe shoot some freeze spray on the bearing. Slide that hammer.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Joe and I tried the usual tricks, and ended up welding and jacking those suckers out of there. good luck! 

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Joe and I tried the usual tricks, and ended up welding and jacking those suckers out of there. good luck! 

:o

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docc , try experimenting with prying the shields out of the old bearings . a screwdriver is the best thing to pry with . You will get a technique and remember it.

 Remove one shield only on the new bearing and pack it w/high temp wheel bearing grease. Replace the shield and install this side in the swingarm first. This is just in case you did less than perfect on reinstalling the dust shield . 

                  Good luck .

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