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Guest redguzziv10

Swing Arm Bearings

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I think they suffer from not actually moving very much.

 

I think that's my problem... and not the bearings.

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Doc, below is a link of a a guy (who is funny as fack, but that aside) in this video he shows a trick to remove bearings in blind holes. I know the swingarm bearing is pretty big and I needed a welder to remove it, I wonder is the trick works. It looks plausible.

 

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"Skookum as frig! :thumbsup::grin:

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Doc, below is a link of a a guy (who is funny as fack, but that aside) in this video he shows a trick to remove bearings in blind holes. I know the swingarm bearing is pretty big and I needed a welder to remove it, I wonder is the trick works. It looks plausible.

 

I've used this method to remove crank spigot bearing bushes but I bet it wont remove a swingarm bearing using a hammer. They are way tighter than some drill motor bearing in an alloy housing. The hydraulic method shown MAY work in a shop press though.

 

Ciao 

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After days and days of fighting with the driveshaft-side swingarm bearing I succeeded in getting it out.

My first try was to just use heat with my good inside puller and a slide hammer. No luck.

I ordered a cheapo puller kit that took either a slide hammer or two-jaw puller. None of its pullers fit snugly in the bearing. I ground the closest puller to the right size and modified its two-jaw puller to fit on the very thin area around the bearing. I cranked it tight and the bearing pulled out. 

 

I had to grind a lot of metal off the original puller to get to the one sitting on the bearing:

Modified Inside Puller.jpg

 

I ground the two-jaw puller to have a slight hook to fit the narrow material surrounding the bearing.

Puller and Swingarm.jpg

 

Here's what it looked like after I pulled the bearing. You can see the hooked inner surface of the puller legs.

Puller and Bearing.jpg

Edited by CagivaRider
Added pictures
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Good job on a purpose-built tool. +1 Big ol' pipe from the opposite side would not drive it out? Or, is it a blind hole? Fortunately, have not had to tear the project down that far... yet.

 

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It's a blind hole with very little space below the bearing.

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When you install the new bearings , remove the dust seal . Pack the bearing completely with wheel bearing grease ,install the dust seal . Install the bearing with the disturbed dust seal inside of the swingarm . This bearing will not move 5 -10 degrees so the grease will only help .

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1 minute ago, gstallons said:

When you install the new bearings , remove the dust seal . Pack the bearing completely with wheel bearing grease ,install the dust seal . Install the bearing with the disturbed dust seal inside of the swingarm . This bearing will not move 5 -10 degrees so the grease will only help .

A new double sealed bearing will already be greased.

Ciao 

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1 minute ago, gstallons said:

Not as much as you think .

I've removed seals from quite a few double sealed bearings to use in engines when I didn't have the non sealed types and always found them to be adequately greased. I mean it cant hurt to do as you suggested I suppose.

Ciao

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These roller bearings have just enough grease to not rust on the shelf . The 303SS bearing has a steel seal and this can't be done . Any other 303 bearings with fibre or rubber seals can be easily filled w/grease .  Buy one and look at it . The swingarm is not easily repaired . I would rather do this than another swingarm R & R . On wheel bearings I would add a small amount of grease to them to add to the lifespan . If you're in the chips , you can install ceramic bearings !

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