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Failure!!


staedtler

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the roper plate takes care of the oil filter being missplaced?

 

 

 

 

we'll see tomorrow what the deal is. A ducati mechanic is going to take a look at it and give me the news. this dude's a good frienD of my buddy, might not charge me for the diagnostic (a six pack will do)....i'll take it from there.

then, all options are open,.... i'm still trying to ascimilate what's going on....but still, i'm bracing for the worst case scenario...wich defenitely SUCK ASS....

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Y' know something , what's done is done , now sit back and wait for tomorrow where some truth will be revealed. You just make yourself tired with only speculations.But is normal , if I was in your case I would do the same but it at the end it ain't so worth it.

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the roper plate takes care of the oil filter being missplaced?

 

Pete's plate keeps the oil from sloshing back under hard acceleration - keeps the oil pickup from sucking air.

 

Greg's "hose clamp around the filter" keeps the filter from backing off. There are a couple of theories as to why they back off, but Greg's solution keeps it in check no matter what the cause is.

 

Rj

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Y' know something , what's done is done , now sit back and wait for tomorrow where some truth will be revealed. You just make yourself tired with only speculations.But is normal , if I was in your case I would do the same but it at the end it ain't so worth it.

I'm with Alex on this one. It may not be as bad as you think.

If it is a screwed motor you have a few options

1) Buy the aftermarket high priced go fast mods & have a brand new rebuilt faster goose

2) Look for a salvaged v11 on the internet & swap the motors which will be a lot cheaper.

3) that new Griso 4valve is going to be in the dealerships soon :race:

4) let it sit in the garage for awhile & buy a cheap bike to ride around on until you can afford to do what you really want to do to the v11

5) you do like to drink beer dont you? lol go get a 12 pack of good beer & relax. Good ideas will come to you. :drink:

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I can't wait to read how this drama turns out. No, the Roper plate won't take care of a loosened filter. It will take care of a slightly low oil level combined with a lot of hard acceleration off the line. With any luck, your looking at big end rod bearings. That fixed my bike. Maybe not. I just reread your first post and my bike never did anything like what you described in it's death throws.

 

Wick

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Y' know something , what's done is done , now sit back and wait for tomorrow where some truth will be revealed. You just make yourself tired with only speculations.But is normal , if I was in your case I would do the same but it at the end it ain't so worth it.

 

Sage advice.

 

I think bigbikerick still had a transmission- not the engine. Does Frank Wedge still have an engine?

 

And, if it boils down to it, I'd wager Gary's bike would damn well sorted out and worth a bit more than $4.5K.

Ask him if he'd thow in a hose clamp :grin:

(I'm not disparaging Greg, just pokin fun in general)

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Guest Gary Cheek

Before any dismantling, it would be worth, for interest, checking current oil level. There are no signs of external oil loss?

 

KB :sun:

 

 

Too late for oil. :(

 

Time for a gross look-see. :homer:

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Ugh, that's exactly what mine did. Wait till you see what's left of that front crank bearing. If you keep the crank GET IT TURNED. We tried new bearings and she spun em in 5 miles.

 

Strangely, it doesn't ping anymore, at all.

 

And I've sent a check for my plate.

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Guest Gary Cheek

Ugh, that's exactly what mine did. Wait till you see what's left of that front crank bearing. If you keep the crank GET IT TURNED. We tried new bearings and she spun em in 5 miles.

 

Strangely, it doesn't ping anymore, at all.

 

And I've sent a check for my plate.

The big ends of the con=rods are likely to need resizing as well. Hopefully there will be enough meat to do it (usually is). The machine shop will need to remove a bit of metal from the mating faces then re hone the rod to size. Should be done in pairs since it actually shortens the eye to eye length. Probably not enough to matter but still usually paired up. If there is no one in your area to do the crank and rod work shoot me a PM. We can handle it here for you if needed. You are going to need a few special tools as well .
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Before any dismantling, it would be worth, for interest, checking current oil level. There are no signs of external oil loss?

 

KB :sun:

:stupid:

If the oil level was set too low, burned to low, or leaked to low, it would be good to know.

The information might not be worth much in determining what needs replacing, but you will have a better idea why she died, if not for technical reasons, for peace of mind.

You may only get one chance to measure the oil level, before the Ducati mechanic gets his hands on her:luigi:

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I have bigbikerrick's engine. By the time I even find out if it runs, I'll have put more than $500 into repairs just to ready it to be tried out. In addition to the horrible Guzzi bubble paint, it was burned and smacked into at the front by the tire. The original plan was to fix it (the V11 Sport engine) up and put it into the Bugswatter and set the original Bugswatter engine aside for later repairs/sell. Now, with the impending purchase of a Norge in a few weeks, my plans have changed. I'm trying to sell the Bugswatter. I will at some point have some sort of spare engine available. Which one depends upon the status of the V11 Sport engine. At the moment, it's being soda blasted to the tune of $200. I should be picking it up today or tomorrow. Then it's replace a bunch of stuff, adapt an engine stand, find a set of throttle bodies and injectors, linkage etc. I have a lot of that stuff too, but it has to be re-conditioned as well and then whatever parts are missing have to be ordered and installed. As everyone in the USA knows, getting parts here for MG's is not always an expeditious process, so this could be a rather lengthy project time-wise.

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The big ends of the con=rods are likely to need resizing as well. Hopefully there will be enough meat to do it (usually is). The machine shop will need to remove a bit of metal from the mating faces then re hone the rod to size. Should be done in pairs since it actually shortens the eye to eye length. Probably not enough to matter but still usually paired up. If there is no one in your area to do the crank and rod work shoot me a PM. We can handle it here for you if needed. You are going to need a few special tools as well .

 

 

There was plenty of metal left on my parts, yes. The only thing I needed to buy were the new bearings

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