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For a few years now I've tried to beat this disease, but the best cope I can come up with is to try to look at them less and ride them more.

Are you sure the front brake "seizure" wasn't caused by a mal adjusted aftermarket front brake lever you have fitted to the bike. You need to adjust the master cylinder piston actuating rod length to make sure there is enough free play in the lever or they will jam on when the brakes get warm because of brake drag.

Well, a quick couple of blasts of DeOxit into the switch and for good measure on all 5 of the relays, and voila, the high beam flasher switch is working again! Much cheaper than buying a whole new switching unit!

Only down side to this is battery drain when the bike isn't running. Combine this with the drain from the ecu when parked and it's quite a drain so the battery tender is required. Phil

That begs the question, 'What is the correct material for brake fluid hose?'

The issue with non genuine reservoir rubber hose is after a while the brake fluid permeates the rubber and collects in a drip that runs down the hose and in some cases onto bodywork and damages paint. The hoses "sweat" brake fluid esp if the bike sits a while between rides. Genuine rubber hoses don't do this. It happened to my new DB1 Bimota years ago. During shipping the hoses had sweated and the result was brake fluid dripped onto the perfect Bimota paint work and damaged it. Not just my bike but all the bikes in the shipment. Bimota had used the incorrect rubber for the hoses. The importer had to repair paint and source the correct rubber hose. Phil

@docc Would it be this ==> Brembo Reservoir Hose

Hearsay, but from knowledgeable people: pods are always hard to tune, regardles of whether carbs or ECU. They work well on a track where it is mostly full throttle, but not well in day-to-day use, where partial throttle openings are the rule rather than the exception.

No longer need a bucket, a nice silicone plug sorted it.

After recently moving to San Francisco, I'm needing more garage space so it's time to sell my 22-year-old Italian girlfriend. Well maintained and in excellent condition, this Guzzi features: 1,100 cc twin, 6-speed transmission, shaft drive 43mm Ohlins fork and Ohlins shock (shock was rebuilt about 1,500 miles ago by DesMoto Sport in SF, which also set sag, preload, compression, and rebound for this 155 pound 71-year-old rider). Factory titanium exhaust pipes and canisters Cross-over header for more mid-range power Moto Guzzi racing ECU Distinctive two-tone red paint (there is no bubbling of graphics) Cover (removable) for passenger seat Carbon fiber front fender Factory steering damper Excellent Brembo brakes with braided SS brake lines Tool kit and manual Recent maintenance: Valve clearance adjustment and throttle body synchronization SCUD shift paw return spring (redesigned to prevent breakage) and lever spring New rear wheel bearings, drive seals, needle bearing, gear oil U-joints and swing arm bearings lubricated New rear brake master cylinder Spark plugs Fuel hoses and tank fittings Air filter Michelin Pilot Power tires Front fender extender All fluids New headlight and shell (metal, not plastic) Oil and filter just changed. Currently 43,625 miles (this will slightly increase as I ride the bike weekly to keep it charged and lubricated...and because it's such visceral fun). $6900 Bring cash and M1 license for test ride.

And let's not forget Miss Shilling and her orifice . . . https://www.damninteresting.com/how-miss-shillings-orifice-helped-win-the-war/

If you are replacing all those parts, it's likely that the reservoir will come with the hose that feeds the master cylinder. It's not pressurized. I put Rizoma tanks on mine and they came with the hose and spring clamps. If you have not already ordered new parts (or even if you have), it would be worth removing that lever to see if the adjusting screw that contacts the moving part of the master cylinder is set too far out (as alluded to above, I'm just trying to add a bit more detail.)

IF this "lever to piston" clearance does not exist you are having a hydraulic jack experience with your front brake system. There has to be adequate clearance to keep this from happening or you can replace all the parts you want and still end up with trouble.

Making people wonder what a rusty star picket is since 2019.

Gotcha. So, not a candidate for @Pressureangle's replacement of the early steel bucket. I wonder if later (2003-2004) "Sports" with fork mounted headlamp/instruments use the steel bucket of if all V11 changed to the plastic unit starting 2002 . . .

Docc...it's a hardened black plastic shell, with a metal ring and round rubber ring at the front held in place by a single screw. The bucket has the wiring harness molded into it, so that will be my challenge as I'll have to transfer that, or get a converter that then marries up to the 4 prong on the bike. I think I can make it work, but may require some assembly. At the moment, I have it all wired up using the original bucket, to test all of the lights and features and it's stunningly good (in the garage at least!). The new light also has semi circular orange LED blinkers in the headlamp...nice feature!

I hope you do. Don't neglect to look closely at all the solder joints and so on in there.

Vielen Dank...that will be the plan next...maybe I'll get lucky and clean the contact and it will work again!

I am of the theory that I caught a similar airborne virus at around 12 years old when I had a paper route and an older (14) gave me a ride on his new Honda 305 Superhawk. I have suffered almost 60 years since and tried various medical, psychological and other cures. I thought I had it in remission (numbers going down) until recently when the count started the other way. I have enlisted a psychiatric nurse who claims she has a solution and last evening came over with some of her solution which involves two roaming cats that she brought along, in the last picture. I think it maybe my final chance to beat this virus!

A further thought: the reason for the air-box is to create a volume of still air at the intakes of the carbies or throttle bodies. That is logical: if there is turbulence there, you can't depend on a constant ingress of air. Going by everything I have read, I would rather make an air-box out of an empty ice-cream container than run pods, or even velocity stacks, on a street bike. If it were to be velocity stacks, then with a box around them to create said still-air volume.

and, then: "Catch 22" - if the low amperage "tender/trickle" charger does not output adequate voltage for your specific battery (Hawker Odyssey PC545 in the case of our V11 OEM battery), then the battery life is shortened.

Probably EPDM or Viton. I can't remember what I used on the Bimota but I think the importer supplied it as a replacement. Phil

still in the phase where i’m in theory not going to really tear into this machine till next winter (2026), but biding the time noodling the process. A question of the day is in regard to the pods on this machine. I know some greatly disfavor pods on the V11’s, and lean toward the stock air intake myself, but thats for running reasons. So for the V7, i’m assuming i’ll source the missing parts to return back to stock style air filters, but at the moment its more because I think i’d prefer that “look”, as the pods look odd on this machine the way they’re currently installed. Then for running purposes, I’d prefer it run well, but is there much of a discernible difference on these bikes for “pod vs stock”? lower rpm, no ECU, carbs vs FI, etc, i’m thinking may make the running question a bit less poignant? or perhaps not….

Meh. No, neither the reservoirs nor the master cylinders come with the hose- I just replaced both sides on my 2000 V11. The barbs on both the M/C and the reservoir measure 7mm, which comes to .275", or a bit over 1/4". I'll try this one- says 7mm but it states .280"... we'll see. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-3-3ft-Rubber-Water-Black/dp/B08MZC17K2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2N3UKYKJHFF5W&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.COxJ2-UzaKM-UA4iA0hK-rbkBQwPalfZ4tv7idlzCl17ZTbgr0ajtwiY0D_G5Xbw8i5AkGNQffBhn0wz67GG5n1fJRJtaDqYYOKs8mcmFDoENeVh49my-YIJs1YSqgxfmikbaouwO48WTcNtaIiAW5LzpVFkutMxoguSrzfCmAzGRYEmdHdLZaJzEXQiBX2BaeEqpzLl2A0kn7HjxGWGOjzPmzkyO7HwIpZSBsae6YA.wiX15ixR3X3b5S-vGyCtQkssKXjJOpFRP6tPh69lzow&dib_tag=se&keywords=7mm%2Bbrake%2Bfluid%2Bhose&qid=1762104388&sprefix=7mm%2Bbrake%2Bfluid%2Bhose%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-4&th=1

Sadly the bolts are made out of parmasen so that's why they needed so many.

I did order these hoses... Ended up not needing to replace the fuel pump. I will keep them for spare parts just in case. Very nice quality hoses and clamps.

Are the 2002 Scura (and maybe the Tenni) headlamp buckets metal like the early Sports or had they changed to the plastic type used on the LeMans and others?

I had a look at the wiring diagrams in this manual, both for the earlier and later models. https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Going by that, I'd say it has to be the flasher switch. Look at this "extract" from the diagram The wire beside which I put a red line brings 12V into the switch block from the lighting relay. If the wiring diagram is true to the "real world" the volts are available to the flasher switch before the high beam switch. After the switch block, the "BI" wire goes off directly to the high beam filament of the headlight. Therefore, if the high beams can be switched on at all, the only explanation that the flasher (pass) switch doesn't work is that the switch itself is faulty. I would open the switch block and investigate.

Ordered 5 relays from Pickers... Starting there.... I just wanted to thank everyone who gave me inputs and suggestions on my Guzzi's fuel pump issue. As it turned out it was only a bad relay. The fact that tapping on the bottom of the fuel pump mounting plate seemed to activate the pump was just a total coincidence. The relay was working sporadically. I appreciate the groups knowledge and willingness to share it. I did order a new internal fuel pump and filter. It will be put away as spares.

Don't forget, 5 months now bikes inside. So realy hope my bike sickness/passion will continue as long as possible. Cheers Tom.

Maybe but $61usd V $15usd ! Phil

DeOxit Gold is really meant to treat “gold plated” connectors, as found in HiFi and other high end audio/video hardware. A bit overkill for our application on 20+ year old machines. The regular DeOxit works just fine for that. In fact, the regular DeOxit has 20% deoxidizing action were the Gold only has 0.5% deoxidizing action . . . Make your choice

Yes submersable hose but this is what you really need as normal 5/16 injector hose doesn't like to bend as sharply as is required in the space available. You can buy the pump off these guys as well. Ducati pumps are the same as are many others. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-hosekit.htm

Yes, here is the thread on it.