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First thing I did when I bought the 'Mighty Scura' was piss off the single plate clutch and reinstall a stock airbox. That bike is sex on wheels. Pod filters don't filter and are detrimental to performance. Idiots claim ridiculous HP increases that aren't achievable and never mention the flobering lack of midrange and bottom end torque, even with the best, custom built map. Far greater benefits can be achieved by spending money on suspension and brakes.

If you are curious, add a temp sensor to the intake inside the airbox. You can get a datalogging temp sensor if you want, or you can just run a temp sensor that displays temp and read it. See how much warmer, if any, is the intake air temp vs the ambient air temp. It should be straight forward. If there is a difference in temps, you will see it. How large the difference is would indicate how big a difference it is making. For sure, warmer intake temps mean less hp. That is what it is. But if the intake air temp of a Guzzi isn't much higher than ambient air temp you aren't going to gain much from reducing it. On the other hand, if your intake air temp is 60 degrees warmer than ambient air temp or more there is clearly something to be gained there. And being temp, it is easy to measure. No point putting in the work to reduce intake temp before measuring to see if intake temp is an issue. Side note, when you run a V8 with a forced induction like a roots style supercharger the supercharger leads to higher manifold / intake temps. At a point, adding more boost by running the blower faster raises manifold temps more than it increases boost, so that the gains from higher boost levels are offset by the losses from higher intake temps.. Running a fuel high in alcohol like E85 cools the intake air, dramatically lowering manifold temps. Measured boost levels may even decrease, because the cooler intake air is denser. But power goes up. A lot. Engine Masters, a tv show on Motor Trend Network, did a show on that where they run a V8 with a roots blower on different fuels, with and without an intercooler. The best combination is the blower on E85 as it cools the intake temps more than the intercooler. It even cools the intake temps below ambient air temp as I recall.

Looks it. I guess this Sport will start easier? Bike kinda reminds me of a guy who had a really nice 78 750 Bonneville that ran a set of Mikunis. Sure, they work wonderfully but it just doesn't sit right..

As of today, I still have about ten plates left.

THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE!

Dear All, I got a reply from Piaggo regarding this and the thread for the pivot pin is M22x1 with 6h tolerance - please see the drawing attached. So I am assuming that the correct tap for recutting the female thread in the pork chop hole would be M22x1mm 6H (Metric Fine Thread) Miro

Uncle Voodoo is hilarious, and honest.

Short version is that stewgnu is the winner, long version is weeks of aggravation After numerous take off and reinstalls of the selector box and sending it back and forth to Hamlin, a gentlemen named Dave Blue who worked for Guzzi for years came by and completely disassembled/reassembled the selector box and adjusted eccentric starting from scratch. He cant understand how it worked fine for 6K miles when it was way out. Dave was passing thru and had to leave so I reassembled and it shifted much better but was not returning to center every time and we knew center spring was good. This is where it gets Guzzi weird, I took off shifter box one last time to see if I could see anything obviously wrong, nothing. I reassembled it with the intent of burning it if I couldn't get it corrected. Went on a ride and shifted perfectly and has for 600 miles now. Good grief.

#USAF

Is that an ice scrapper they use for a pick?🙂

My experience has been to give Curtis a call and let him rummage around and see what he finds. His latest website change did not solve this.

Back from ‘holiday’ GuzziMoto - so belated cheers. 🍻 I actually found Gale’s data revealing. V11’s are faulted for having a mid-range hole - is there maybe more here than meets the eye The power loss experienced by Gale’s 427ci sucking under hood air is 111 Hp - which is equivalent to almost 16 Hp per litre. Now this hooded hot aired 550 Hp divided by 7 (as in 7L) is 78 Hp per Litre Whilst ambient air 661 Hp divided by 7 is 94 Hp Numbers somewhat in our 1L V-twins territory Now I’m not postulating we would reduce Hp losses of 16 Hp here - or even halving that again @8 Hp. But conservatively if we halve it again @4 Hp - that’s got to be up for consideration Under hoods aren’t particularly hermetically sealed areas - all that open space betwixt engine bay & road - meaning it’s getting spoiled airflow too Maybe our restricted pocket of air between tank & radiating finned cylinder’s is more detrimentally heated than we imagine? Are we overly assuming it’s quite the little refreshing wind tunnel in there when we’re moving along? Might Gale consider the V11’s heated intake density ‘pure Jackassery’

Got to poke around today.Yep,fiddle with that relay and she comes to life.Can't isolate which connection is failing tho,...I guess beefing up the whole block is in order....

really funny thread docc

That’s what my brain told me but my bike said you better grab one fast.

Hope I’m not too late. Looking to buy one.

Royal Enfield Super Meteor 650 & Tourer.

I hope it's red that didn't photograph well.

Keihin carbs?

I'd try fitting the left pivot pin from the inside, so that the pin swages the damaged outer few threads into line. After that, wind that LH pin out enough to fit the swingarm and RH pin. If you use a tap to recut the threads, you risk having a loose pin if you don't use the correct tolerance tap.

Sorry no one else followed up on this last comment. Personally I think insulating the stock airbox is a good idea. My Daytona had an airbox that was under the seat, not wrapping up and forward to the V of the engine. But I think overall the V11 airbox is a better design. But one drawback of the V11 design would be engine heat. Anything that slows the transfer of heat to the airbox should help reduce intake temps. Reducing intake air temps should help make more power. Will it transform a V11 into a fire breathing monster? No. That ain't gonna happen. But more power is good.

I found this short vid by Gale Banks (he sure knows a thing or two about pow-wuh!) with air density data interesting. I often wonder on Ozzie summer days just to what degree our stock intake box perched between two combustion chambers shedding heat - ends up baking the air charge prior to the intake valve opening. Would wrapping in some reflective insulation which claim to reflect heat continuously up to 260°C & intermittently up to 400°C be worthwhile as in performance gains - or futile exercise?

Docc: Since you and I have essentially the same bike (mine being slightly faster), and I assume the laptop is for working magic with Guzzidiag, can you share what exact cables etc that work with your bike and a Mac laptop....? If that is what you are doing.......? Muchas Gracias de California, Jésse

I know we all are getting dependent on computers more and more, but for Pete Roper's sake, who needs a MacBook for drilling holes in the airbox lid?

Man, I'm not sure what's wrong. I've been sick with a virus for a couple of weeks. I've started to slowly recover and get back to normal. Anyway to the topic. Lightning struck nearby yesterday and it took out my new stereo and sub. So I'm not listening to anything. I was actually able to drive for the first time, so I was able to exchange the cable box. It's a bad deal to be home ridden with no tunes. I have a bluetooth speaker, so there's that. Whining over.