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cold air without snow - always great fun with the V11

I rode (stock relays) in monsoon, heavy rain weather systems we seem to have more an more in Texas, and never once noticed an issue. I thought, and I may be wrong, the relays are pretty well protected from water underneath the seat?

Thanks for bringing up this topic; UTAC used to based in Monthlery France, where I happened to do my High School. UTAC stands for Union Technique de l'Automobile et du Cycle. Monthlery has a racing track where Grand-Prix F1 and Motorcycle took place when I was a kid. While in Monthlery, we used to go to the track to watch cars while they were being tested, and spoke with the UTAC technicians. UTAC has grown and has an international footprint today. However, the headquarters are still based at the Monthlery racing track like they were in the 60's when I was there. The track is no longer certified for racing, but it is used for numerous events of all kinds for cars and motorcycles. UTAC is the company you would use to do all your testing including certification. They can be trusted for impartiality, even if the test was paid for by Bridgestone; UTAC is a private for profit company. Glossary: the report mentions "on the ring"; the "RING" is an oval with banked curves. The Monthlery circuit is not where they did the test in the report. The test was conducted at Bridgestone Italian tracks. As you can see in this very old diagram made by UTAC (look at the telephone numbers with only two and three digits), initially the track was long; 7.765 miles when you include what is described as "boucles des Biscornes (Biscornes Loop). Look at the two videos herewith: the one on motorbike is done on the Biscornes Loop. The second video is shot on the oval. As pointed out in the second video, during tests, they run the oval counterclockwise. For races, clockwise, and they omit the Biscornes loop. They take the short cut turn at "The two bridges". I have driven on the Biscornes loop, not with a motorcycle though. The track is very representative of all you find on road. The oval is also very bumpy, because with time, it has degraded. This is the reason why they have added so many chicanes to prevent drivers to go too fast.

Took the words right out of my mouth...this place is golden. When you have a 20+ year old bike you need everything going in your favor. The combined knowledge and wisdom here goes a long way in helping to acheive that. Thank you all for taking the time to help.

It's winter here my friends. Not riding my V-11, rather my MXZ. Put 144 miles on this weekend in some crisp, clean and sunny, cold air. .

Oh no ! These are the first videos I have watched that I didn't lean in the turns .

Makes me think there should be an "Under the Seat Maintenance Checklist " to compliment the other two checklists . . .

I can't remember who posted about them here; but picking up a pair of the Odyssey L bracket terminal extensions for my battery terminals were definitely one of the best additions to my bike. I find it extremely crowded around the battery area on my V11,just trying to reattach the cables to the battery was a major pita,the terminal extensions solved a lot of grief. Ps edited to add that the recommendations to relocate the battery tray mounting to underneath the frame brackets,is well worth doing. Each bike is different,my battery tray required a little bit of filing on the mounting tabs for clearance. With the battery tray mounted underneath,it only adds a small amount of extra clearance around the battery,but that area is crowded,every little bit helps.fwiw ymmv

This topic has been raised numerous times over the now two decades of this forum's existence, and there have been a handful of examples where owners have tracked down a paint or powder-coating color that approximates the OEM "anodized" red finish on some of the V11 Sport/Lemans models "porkchop" (sideplate) and valve covers. Since neither the porkchops nor the valve covers were actually anodized, it proved difficult to find a finish that would replicate the OEM faux anodized appearance. And unfortunately the finish on the "porkchops" didn't prove very durable, and the finish on the valve covers often faded as well. So the search for an appropriate finish started almost immediately. And BTW, I was told by an anodizing shop that one can't just get those parts anodized due to the type of casting... at least not the valve covers. Well, I recently obtained a powder coating sample from Prismatic Powders, called unsurprisingly "Anodized Red", that looks remarkably close to the original OEM finish before it faded and cracked: https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PPB-5936/anodized-red ANODIZED RED (Item: PPB-5936) I haven't applied this finish to a part yet, but the sample looks very good. So if you are looking for a finish to repair or replicate the OEM V11 "anodized" red color, this might be an option to consider.

I have switched from my long-loved Pirelli to Battlax tires the last few changes and "like" the T32 very much. I say "like" because motorcycle tire preferences are so much like music and ladies. It's a good thing we don't all "like" the same thing!

After a quick read, some (slow) reflection, it seems the Battlax T32 Sport Touring aced it over almost all the other brands save for the Dunlop Roadsmart 3. One parameter the test lacks, is longevity and autonomy. How do those tires retain the rated efficiency over time? I am on my second set of Michelin Road 5 2CT, and I rode the whole of the Motorcycle Grand Tour of Texas 2022 on them. I wanted to check the Road 6 this year, but for lack of availability, I had to settle again for the Road 5. When I read the specific report on the Michelin Road 5, I find some elements I concur with, others I don't have that experience of the lack of progressiveness in cornering. When I did the twisted sisters last year, which are a mix of tights and more opened corners, I did not have to fight to lean the bike. It also may come from how I approach curves. I tend to use the rear brake; I believe the tester did not. I am going to have to check the Battlax T32 at some point... after I check the Michelin Road 6. It is interesting how some of the rider's reviews for those tested tires do not reflect the data presented in this UTAC report. I also noted the author of the report uses the word "subjective" several times.

there is a pretty nice summary of the function of each relay (by docc last Summer I think) in the long relay thread that can be included.

Haha, well, time to give some additional consideration to what else is under the seat . . . First, battery: > Notice how the seat has been cutting into the hold down strap. This could also indicate undesirable seat pressure on the battery case. While the seat pan can be relieved with a rotary cutter (Dremel®), consider a "battery basket drop" that places the forward basket mounts beneath the subframe. Drops the battery considerably and no more interference seat <-> battery. > The terminal stacks are prone to loosening and developing corrosion. While a simple loosening and dose of Caig DeOxit® would be well advised, tightening might best be achieved changing those fasteners to hex heads. > Check the date code on the PC545 and learn to "condition" it, especially if the static voltage has dropped below the 85% (12.65 volt) threshold. Next, ECU: > Check that the isolation blocks that fasten the ECU are intact. Very common that they separate and should be re-adhered or replaced. > Make certain the ECU case ground is clean, treated (DeOxit), and tight. Be careful not to make a connection with your wrench to the nearby Positive Battery Terminal! > Groom the connectors lying on top of the ECU off to the side so the seat is not pressing on the ECU through those connectors. Fuse Block and tail connectors: > The connectors that have been dragged into the tool tray can easily be serviced (cleaned, treated, tightened) and tucked back out of the way. > Open the Fuse Block lid and treat (DeOxit) all of the fuse connections. Carefully inspect the green 30 amp Fuse #3 (Charging/Regulator) for signs of excessive heat (melting/deformed case or burnt blades without "blowing the fuse"). Any signs of heat should lead to certainty that the Regulator case has an additonal ground strap directly to the engine timing chest. > By prying the fuse block up out of its isolation blocks you can inspect, tighten, and treat the hidden spade connectors that feed the Fuel/Ignition and ECU relays.

Let's not jump to conclusions...lots of fiddle faddle needed here. Your original comment of "expect owner involvement" rings in my ears.😆

They call them "Hypersport" tires. Whatever that means. In my opinion, not a racing tire. But perhaps a trackday tire. I have only ridden a few times on Bridgestone tires, and I wasn't impressed. But I don't think they are bad tires, just not my preferred tires. Also, what works best on the race track is often not what works best on the street. For race track use you want a tire that works well when hot. Cold performance doesn't factor into it. But for the street you want a tire that works well cold. Even when you are riding it hard, it is often given a chance to cool back down when you stop at a light or get caught behind a cage / car. Sometimes you will see racers crash because they backed off to build a gap between them and the guy in front of them. But then the tire looses temp and when they get back on it the grip isn't there. The window for temp in a true track tire is usually pretty small. Also, a track tire doesn't hold up to long term heat cycles. It is usually done after a dozen heat cycles or less.

Mine has these on it: https://www.bridgestone.de/motorrad-reifen/sport/battlax-s21 I can't say much about them, as I haven't ridden it much yet, and that in very cold conditions on a newly bought bike, i.e. I don't know the bike at all. One of the blokes I share the garage with said they are more or less one grade short of race tires. Can anyone confirm that? I have a feeling that the previous owner might have chosen grip at all cost, and bugger the mileage. We'll see. I'll try and remember to report back when I have ridden a bit more in friendlier conditions, and got the suspension dialled in to my weight a bit. The previous owner is probably at least 20 Kg. heavier than me, and I have a feeling that he had it set up hard for his weight.

Well, that explains the tape then. That's a goog thing... Yeah, and tape instead of mounting bolts might too...

I have a Coppa Italia. It used to live in germany. It is now enjoying the seaside living in Portugal.

Well, mySport absolutely LOVES this 53ºF/12ºC dry, dense air. Climbing between 5000 and 7000 rpm, there is a certain divine resonance that tunes the whole earth to the heavens.