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Weegie

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Weegie last won the day on August 18 2021

Weegie had the most liked content!

About Weegie

  • Birthday July 11

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  • My bikes
    98 Magni Australia, 92 Magni Sfida 1000, 99 Magni Sfida 1100, 2017 BMW R9T Racer
  • Location
    Scotland

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  • Interests
    Almost anything with an engine, beer & books; not necessarly in that order

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Guzzisti

Guzzisti (2/5)

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  1. Interesting @Pressureangle I don't know if I'm setting up my Sport correctly but I close the airbleeds then balance at 2k and 3k rpm on the butterflies the idea is both TB's get the same amount of fuel so I try ensure they get the same amount of air, at 3k hopefully they are starting to flow a reasonable amount of air Then I set idle using the throttle stop on one side only (other side is screwed way out). Finally I adjust the air bleeds to balance the TBs at idle. Correct me on this if I'm wrong but my thinking is the amount of air fed via air bleeds is pretty much insignificant in the scheme of things compared to the butterflies so they've negligable effect at any significant throttle opening. I agree on the statement regarding getting it perfect I just get it near enough at the 2k and 3k mark and average a little
  2. Weegie

    Engine Stand

    Just what I do, so others may have a different opinion, but all I use is either some blocks of wood or a wide jack something like this If supporting the gearbox as well, I just stuck a scissors jack underneath it Stein Dinse (and probably a lot of others) have specific stands, but I've just never found them necessary https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=686#prettyPhoto
  3. Here's my 98, it's a nothing video just a start and idle but let's you guys take a look. Given me a lot of headaches, now sorted about much as I can sort it. Still runs hot and you'd better not get caught with it in traffic or it'll cook (you and the bike). Out on the road though it's great fun, it encourages you to rev it, I'm normally running it at 5k and above because that's where it seems happiest and noise is great The Australia 98s had the Daytona RS engine (hence the heat due to the stupid cam only fitted to the RS lumps), a beam frame, similar to Guzzi's (the 92s had a tubular frame more akin to Tontis) and Paioli forks replacing the Forcelle Italia on the 92s
  4. I saw it already but it's a great video and what a symphony!!! It's also worth looking at his other videos some truly splendid bikes with some background on them including some other Guzzis. I know that bike and its previous owner who had it for a long time. It's in first class condition and the PO is very meticulous in caring for his bikes. It's an Australia 92, with the standard Daytona engine, but that particular engine has been upgraded to a "B" kit, its also got some other goodies including a spacer that incorporates an oil cooler with temp and pressure gauge plus Caruso oil pump with steel oil pump and service shaft gears. There was a later run of Australias made in 98 and they were different in quite a few ways, though you might not notice at first glance
  5. Got them on the Magni 1000 and a monoshock on the R9T I really like their products
  6. I was going to add earlier to check the Voltage on the black wire which I believe is the reference but didn't as @farfons stated he ran that wire to the battery and there was no change, the same with the earth but again he did that as well. In my experience on my Sporti that double "jack" plug comes apart easily, for now they're held together with a cable tie, but I'm going to cut them both off and replace it with something more secure. The reference itself is measured in a crap place passing through a fuse and 2 relays (starter & headlamp) in the Sport, not to mention the wire running the length of the bike, so corroded or dirty contacts could cause the reference to "see" low volts and lead to overcharging. That said you've already eliminated these as potential problem by running wiring to the battery to test and found no difference, so you've reached my level of ignorance on the issue.
  7. Out of interest @Tomchri are you just using 2 of the available phases (2 of the 3 yellow wires) on the Shindengen 847 and leaving the 3rd disconnected? It's what I'd like to do with my Sport 1100 and HiCam engined bikes that use the same charging system as the V11 Not a cheap option, but I've not got much faith in the alternative, specifically stating they won't support batteries with low internal resistance (LiFe and AGM batteries).
  8. No all Daytonas were 4v/v HiCam engines, the difference between the cooking Daytona and the RS were Dark Grey Engine Paint WP Suspension front and rear (the early bikes has pretty awful Marzocchi front forks and a Koni rear shock) Stage C engine tune (Wiseco pistons, Carrillo Rods, hotter cam, Hi Flow air filter, different exhaust and map) That looks like an early one (it's a 93 and that's about the year they started in production) judging by the forks, pork chops and engine colour, although it has the pod filters and bellmouth as fitted to the Dr John and what looks like a Termigioni full system, I can't be sure, the crossover isn't standard and the end cans are Termis (or Termi stickers). The white paint job, or it could be a wrap, isn't standard either (but I think really suits it) and the wheels are black, the originals were white, which looked great until you rode it and had to clean them after every ride. Personally I think it's a really nice example that's been tastefully modded. All that's just off the top of my head there's probably more. Even a "cooking" Daytona is a magic thing, the 4v/v engine is a beast, it encourages you to rev it and it sounds glorious. 15k sounds a little rich, but they really are great bikes and I think will rise in value, after the round heads I think it's the best looking engine Guzzi made.
  9. I wasn't going to post again, but, the PRV release pressure can be adjusted by shimming the spring to compress, making the valve lift at higher pressures. With the HiCam engine my own experience was the OEM spring acuation wasn't all or nothing, it partially lifted, prior to full lift When I conducted static tests on the valve I found the lift pressure with cold oil on the bench was higher than the pressure when I ran the valve in the engine. My best guess why this occurs (and it's no more than that) was the valve cycling inside the running engine. The result was the running pressure in the engine was lower than the lift pressure obtained on the bench. I also want to thank @Lucky Phil for all the time and help he generously gave me and the solution of installing the Griso spring into the PRV in the HiCam. Without it I'd still be groping around in the dark. The aforementioned results were with the 4v/v engine and it's different to the 2v/v engine. I've never had the need to conduct any tests on a 2v/v engine as I've never experienced any problems with the 2v/v bikes. On both of mine the pressure is stable at approximately the PRV lift pressure of 60psi once the engine is up to temp and revs over 2ks. No idea if that's any help or not but thought I'd add it just in case
  10. I've been poked with a stick before on oil pressure and my approach to monitoring with what I percieved as a potential problem engine. I don't think my phillosophy is 100% correct for all people on all ocassions, nor do I believe it's 100% wrong. IMHO there is more than "one way to skin a cat" and the answers to questions/problems don't need to be mutually exclusive. EDIT: And just to let everybody in on a little secret, the reason manufacturers don't fit gauges to vehicles anymore?............Accountants I'll get my coat
  11. Have you checked the PRV @LaGrasta ? Just an idle musing on my part and I wondered if it was sticking slightly. @motortouring IMHO its not bad idea to do that, I just never thought about it
  12. I don't own a V11 but have a Sport 1100 an LM 1000 & a HiCam engined bikes, so on V11 specifics I'm somewhat lacking, but AFAIK there is little difference between the V11 and Sport on the lubrication side. You obviously are well aware of the pressure behaviour on the bikes and I'm sure you also know that the oil pressure switches don't have the best reliability reputation. On your friends V11 it's almost certainly the bulb that's defective. I've never switched the bike off with the kill switch and then kept an eye on the pressure warning, so can't say for sure, if there would be a slight delay or not, but I can't recall seeing it happen. I've never ran a 2 v/v bike on 10/60, but the additional viscosity might also increase the pressure decay time. I also don't understand the statement about the oil pressure being out after the bike stalls (ignition OFF), the light will be out if the igntion swtich if OFF as there is no voltage to it, pressure or not it will not illuminate. If the light doesn't illuminate when the ignition is on and the engine has not been run the pressure switch is defective or starting to fail. What I'd do is either replace the switch, remove the exisitng switch and test it, or install a temporary gauge into the pressure switch location to separate the true pressure behaviour in the system from the instrumentation. If installing a gauge I believe the crankcase thread for the switch is an M12x1.5 thread Here is a crank test on a HiCam (4v/v) bike with cold 15W/50 oil, it doesn't have any relevance except you can see there is a short period when the engine stops rotating and the pressure decays to approx 7psi. That's on cold oil though, I'd expect it to be much quicker on a hot engine
  13. Just put that onto my watch list I haven't checked what the threads are on the Guzzi part as I don't want to drain the tank right now If you do size yours it would be great if you could tell us if this is a direct replacement as I'd purchase a couple for my bikes. If you check his stores for a few dollars more he offers an assembly with the guaze filter and/or the filter separately
  14. Just to add that I don't think it'll make any difference on which side the Petcock and pressure regulator are, providing the tubing in the fuel system is rearranged to suit. However if the Petcock and pressure regulators have just been swapped over then I doubt the engine would start. You'll also be running the pump dry and that won't be doing it any good either. Line from the Petcock should run to the fuel pump inlet, the pump outlet then runs to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter a line runs to one of the injectors then the other after that a line runs up to the regulator on the tank (ASS-uming it's the same a HiCam or Sporti). I'd follow the Petcock line and make sure it's running to the pump inlet, if it's running to one of the injectors then you'll need to swap the Petcock and pressure regulator components around. Apologies if I'm "teaching my granny"
  15. Yup they used these POS's a lot, good design let down by inappropraite material. @Lucky Phil has thread where he tore one down then modified it to work properly. I think it's an O ring that the gas swells and makes the tap hard to use. It looks to me like that one is in the Open position, but it might not be fully open, they are a bitch to use and I end up using a pipe wrench on them to open and close. Clockwise to close and Anticlockwise to open as viewed from the floor looking up to the tank, obviously the opposite if looking from the tank downwards towards the ground Good catch @paulnaz I never noticed and checked my Sporti and HiCam (don't have a V11) and the fuel tap is on the left on both bikes looking from the rear of the bike towards the front)
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