MotoKnee
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MotoKnee last won the day on September 21
MotoKnee had the most liked content!
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Location
Portland, OR
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My bike(s)
V7III Racer, 2001 V11 Sport
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Sorry for the confusion Docc. Here's the deal. I noticed the ebay ad a few days before the John Day rally. The ad read 2 V11s for sale, and a price of $13,000. No mention of $13k each. Hence the inference that $13k was for the pair, not just by me but also a friend that I sent the link to see if he wanted one. I guess we are both idiots. I checked the ad immediately after the rally and the price had been dropped to $9000. I still assumed it was for the pair as there was still no mention of $9k each. This price was only up for a day or two, then the ad went away. I no longer cared because it was at this time I had found a Greenie locally. It wasn't until Activpop mentioned he had spoken with the seller and the price was $13k each, that the $9k must have also been for each. I only posted in the first place because in the original ad, he gave more history and details, including the extra wheel, and thought maybe someone else had seen it.
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Activpop stated he wanted $13k each, and I agreed that must be correct. The seller then lowered the price to $9000 each. ??
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If you spoke in person, I'm sure you must be right. $13k seems optimistic, the $9000 he dropped to immediately after the rally is fairly significant.
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That looks like one of the two V11s that the seller had for sale on eBay earlier this summer. The other was an equally nice Rosso Mandello I think. He was asking $13,000 for the pair and had trailered them to the MGNOC rally in John Day, Oregon. They apparently didn't sell there and afterward he listed them for $9000 for the pair, then the listing was taken down soon after.
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Best of the best, absolutely stunning.
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Summer's last Walz
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As much for my own clarification as yours My understanding of circuits discussed: Assuming you find no power going to fuses 6 and 7, and even though the Hi/Low beams work, the IGN switch could still be suspect because the wire pair (1 and 2) work thru a different contact than wire pair 3 and 4. A broken wire (or dirty contact) on 3 or 4 would cut power to both the tail light and the turn signals. I don't think relays are involved as they are not used in the tail light or turn signal circuit. The schematic I'm looking at may not apply to your bike, and I'm often wrong.
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To test for power from ign switch to fuses: remove both fuses from fuse holder. turn on key. set meter to DC volts touch black lead to negative battery terminal. then, one at a time, touch red lead to each fuse terminal. 1 side of each fuse should have 12v present. If not, you may have ign switch issue.
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In the schematic I'm looking at, it appears that the taillight and the turn signals have a wire in common. That is the wire that comes from the ignition switch and supplies power to both fuse 6 and fuse 7. Fuse 6 supplies the taillight and fuse 7 supplies the the turn signals. You could check for 12V at the input side of either fuse (red and gray wire in the schematic). If no power is present at the fuse, you may need to clean/inspect the wiring in the ignition switch.
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And maybe give the flasher unit a look and a spritz of cleaner?
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My reaction rod has about a mm of up/down play at the frame end, tight at the bevel box end. No obvious wear of the bushing, 3500 miles on the bike. The bolt at the front is marked as 10.9 NORM, which is different than the unmarked rear bolt. The rod and bushing move together w/ respect to the bolt, as if the bolt diameter is too small. No washers or spacers on the bolt head or on the nut end. I would like to remove the bolt for inspection, but not sure how much disassembly is necessary. Wheel off, drive supported etc. Or can it removed with the bike on the sidestand? Thanks for any guidance.
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I now see that change in another schematic, fuse 5 power goes to pin 30 of the headlight relay, start relay pin 30 from switched ignition. That change is on the 2002 models? I was hoping to wait until winter maintenance to remove the tank for a wiring inspection (my sidestand switch has been removed, want a look at the jumper, also want to inspect regulator connections, bullet connectors) and a general see what's what. Don't want to miss prime riding weather due to cranking that sticky manual fuel shut off and creating a gas leak.