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O2 V11

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Everything posted by O2 V11

  1. BramF, Have a look at these ones https://www.omniaracing.net/en/brembo-serie-oro-front-floating-brake-disc-for-moto-guzzi-v11-mans-20012005-p-164545.html Rob
  2. It looks like a parts bin special alright. I am inclined to go with it being a 2002 year early Le Mans, it has the first generation switchgear as fitted to the original Sports. The clipons being under the top yoke and the hollow front axle only muddy the waters. At that price it would be the perfect candidate for cannibilisation. Rob
  3. @BallabioJoj, I have a MBTX12U fitted and it works very well for me. Rob
  4. @LowRyter in a word, No. They are different sizes. Rob
  5. @gstallons you are correct, but I have always called it from day one of ownership a 2002. When the bike arrived in 2004 the "new" 2003 model was available. The 2003 model as we know sports many changes, amongst these are satin cases, an exhaust crossover, lengthened tank, ITI gauges with different paint schemes . My bike although it was made in early 2003 is not representative of what I call a 2003 model. To avoid any confusion around which iteration mine was I decided to a call it a 2002 model. Rob
  6. I see a post by @motortouring showing a Burgundy side cover on his bike which he said was manufactured in 2001 which would make this would be one of the earliest carryover models. The switchgear changed somewhere in at a guess late 2001 or early 2002. I have seen a Champagne Le Mans with the same switchgear as the original Sports and Rosso Mandellos but later ones had the newer switchgear. The question that needs answering is has anyone seen what is accepted as the carryover 2002 model available in Grey, Burgundy and Lemon/Lime with the earlier switchgear? If there is such a beast this would mean this configuration was manufactured from late 2001 until early 2003. Rob
  7. Carryover 2002 Sport Naked manufactured March 2003, as above ZGUKRAKR53M114957. Rob
  8. 40 mm is the fork tube diameter for this iteration. Rob
  9. Very nice, those should work very well, quick question, are you having to change your brake lines to suit? Don't forget to give us a rundown on how they perform, are you upgrading the master cylinder as well? Rob
  10. p6x, check your breather pipe from the top of the block to the frame, this is notorious for degrading and leaking oil. I had to replace mine after 17 years. Rob
  11. It has been a while since I have had my cover off but from memory there is only one position that the 4 dowels can be in for the cover to fit correctly. I got it wrong once and cracked my cover by tightening it up with the dowels incorrectly aligned. If you still have your cover on the bike have a close look at your gear linkages on the up shift. Make sure nothing is binding preventing the up shift, the starter is really close to the linkages. Hopefully you only have one of the connecting fittings reversed and it is catching on the starter, preventing an up shift past neutral. Rob
  12. Here are my tank connections, as docc said both of the under tank nipples are drains/vents. I have joined the two hoses that connect to these with a garden irrigator 'Y" into a single hose which is routed towards the ground at the left rear of the motor. This was done as my bike was a California spec one which had the tank overflow hose originally plumbed separately to a canister which was removed. My fuel lines are original so hopefully yours will look the same as mine.
  13. It could be either your tank vent or drain. There are two outlets on the bottom of the tank. One is a drain for any liquids that my be present around the filler ring and the other is a vent for any pressure that may build up inside the filler cap. If your bike originally was a CA spec one, the vent line would have been plumbed into the filter canister. This is generally removed and both lines a joined with a small joiner to the drain line and are discharged down at the rear of the sump. This is where the drain line is routed. For this I used a small garden irrigation "Y". I am unsure how the vent system is structured on non CA spec bikes. Rob
  14. I have had mine for about 3 years now. Tinnitus in one ear and the other one is just getting old. When there is a TV for example in the next room and I listen to it with my bad ear only it might as well be in a foreign language as I cannot distinguish anything. I put this down to loud motorcycles and work related noise exposure over the years. Before getting them any socialising was hard. With a lot of background noise I found it near impossible to clearly understand and follow the flow of the conversations. My wife eventually made me go and get mine. I went to an Audiologist who owned the business himself. I ended up with an inexpensive pair, about $2300, Oticon is the brand. After my hearing test the hearing aids were tuned for frequency responses which best matched what I can't hear. I have annual hearing tests and the process is repeated. Overall I am very happy with them, the batteries last about 2 weeks, they are turned off at night. There are other disposables you will need like earbuds and filters. As an aside, at work there are other people who have hearing aids from franchised operations who are not happy with their devices. I can only assume that theirs are not tuned correctly for their needs. There is a multitude of options out there now in hearing aids, Bluetooth models you can adjust with your phone and use as speakers for your phone or music, rechargeable ones you plug into a dock to charge. Back to the original question I take them out when riding and have never worn earplugs which in hindsight may have helped slow the decline in my hearing. Mine fit behind the ear and unless you look really hard you cannot tell they are there. Putting a helmet off and on will dislodge them as I found out. I find the sound just a little bit tinnier then normal but that is understandable you can't get bass out of a speaker the size of a gnat, wind can be a problem sometimes but it is not the end of the world. Overall it was the right thing to do and have no regrets with my choice in provider and the appliances themselves. Rob
  15. Didn't Carl Allison have an accident damaged TT many, many moons ago? He may have ended up dismantling it if my memory serves me correctly. Rob
  16. Cash1000, you could try hand cleaner. I have the Supercheap SCA branded stuff. Used successfully on painted alloy wheels that were black with brake dust. took a while with a toothbrush but eventually removed all the crud. It has a bit of gritty material in it so shouldn't be used on bare metal but is OK on painted surfaces. Rob
  17. Kane, when my front end was rebuilt it was fitted with both a 0.9 and a 1.0. I cannot say which spring went where. The springs were only part of the equation along with an Andreani valve kit in 26mm. Interestingly the oil that was used was 20 cSt as opposed to the usual 26 cSt recommended for Marzocchis The stock front end is atrocious with next to no compression damping. New springs would help a little but a deeper dive into the forks would give much better results. Race Tech would be a good place to start for either springs or a full front end rebuild. Rob
  18. Hi BramF, not in the EU but in New Zealand. This is available here for 44 odd Euro. The same kit will be available near you, keep searching the net, you must find one. This listing does not show a Brembo part number. Rob https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/brakes/listing/3234721013
  19. p6x, I do not think there is any benefit in nitrogen filled tyres. Never used it myself but if the opportunity arose I would not bother. On the other hand have installed angled valve stems front and rear. 90 at front and 135 at rear and yes both facing away from the side stand. Rob
  20. O2 V11

    Cockpit

    dowieze, This is what I used instead of the mount you are trying to find. There is enough room to put a nut on the bolt inside the steering head itself. A smaller socket set with plenty of extensions and a long reach/deep socket will get the job done. Using a shorter bolt would have been much easier, I used the shortest of the 3 supplied. RAM Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base (RAM-B-367U) Rob
  21. Wow, at only 2.6 kg that's quite a weight saving over the MBTX12U at 4.4 kg I just installed before Christmas. I have always had a lot of time for the Motobatt range of batteries. Just checked retail pricing at $339 as opposed to $160 for the conventional. For me it is a case of yeah, nah. Rob
  22. That wear is definitely not normal, even though it seems we favour left handers that accelerated wear on the left side doesn't make sense at all. I was going to say it must be a dual compound tire, soft in the left and hard on the right but I wouldn't want anyone to take me seriously... Rob
  23. swooshdave, the camera I am using is an Akaso Brave 6 Plus. The camera was being used in the supplied waterproof casing which would have been the main cause of the vibration/resonance. The Ram mount and 6 inch arm was solid. The casing and frame mounts for the camera are not the same quality as your GoPro. Next time the camera will be it's frame mount which hopefully will reduce vibration. The camera did a very good job with it's image stabilization but couldn't overcome the camera shake. Rob
  24. An update I went with this mount instead of the fork stem one. It is marketed as a handlebar clamp base. The mount worked perfectly fitting through the 8mm hex in the stem nut. I was able to attach a spring washer and nut with the aid of a .25" drive socket set. With having to use a long arm extension to enable the camera to be positioned so I can film over and including the top of the instrument panel, the downside is vibration. The vibration is so bad I cannot use this mount so back to the drawing board. Apart from the ever present shakes the footage I took was really good, thumbs up to Akaso on that one. At the same time I have been attempting to record the audio using a separate sound recorder from the camera. The camera cannot record audio when it is in the supplied waterproof casing. I purchased an extension microphone for the camera but this is not suitable for my needs either. Using all the advice I could find on the net I still haven't perfected the process yet. What settings works for a chain drive multi definitely does not for a Guzzi. There is too much mechanical noise from the gearbox and bevel box to mask the exhaust note with the sound recorder stashed under the seat, even with the sound restrictors removed on my Neptunes. Next move is to purchase a bum bag and put the recorder in that which should minimize the capture of mechanical noise and enable the exhaust sounds to be recorded. Rob
  25. Thanks knumbnutz for pointing me n the right direction I just gave myself the dork of the week, month, year award. I was sitting on the bike and the stand was down, everything is working perfectly. Rob
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