jimbemotumbo

Good advice above. The only other thing I can tell you is to be absolutely certain that all linkages are disconnected from the TB when you set the TPS. I'm sure you've already considered that. I always did a careful valve adjustment to Euro specs then the TPS, then the TBs. I also balanced at just off idle, say 1500 rpm, rather than 3k rpm, as I feel it results in a better tune. If I varied from that approach I would see a bit of 3k hiccup. YMMV

I find I am cleaning the screen a lot more often in the last few days!

+1 to Raz. Even if the relay change fixed you up, you need to spend some time cleaning the contacts and applying a bit of dielectric grease. Trust me, the problem WILL be back if the contacts are nasty. Ride Safe!

Cheapest and easiest fix that works for many vapor lock sufferers is the reflective heat tape, or similar shielding stuff, followed closely by installing a manual petcock. Although, I did it other way round and the petcock did the trick.

SNIP: I'll trade any one of my bikes for either! However the maintenance costs may surprise me. Cheers.

I have a Tuono R, so must add a bit to this: The Tuono lack of comfort is highly overstated, as is it's "nervousness" as Antonio puts it. I am a very legroom and general ergo conscious rider. I sold a new FJR tourer due to ergos (after throwing a good bit of money into changing it). I sold my V11 sport due to ergos. My 50 + year old knees can't deal with a sport bike at all, and they prefer my BMW 1200RT or a GS for leg room and comfort. However, I bought the tuono for a little hoon action now and then. Full Akro system and fueling changes made. After setting up the suspension properly, it's a stable freight train on steriods. All nervousness was dialed completely out in about 10 minutes. The most pronounced improvement comes from dropping the forks in the tree and setting rebound. The power rush on this bike hits HARD, and after the suspension tweaks I can now enter decreasing radius curves, with significant pavement quality changes, under full power and with full confidence. There is no wandering, twitchiness, turn-in, etc. probably the best handling bike I have ever had. The OEM bars had a tad too much sweep, so Protaper Hi-ATV bars went on. I now find myself commuting daily on this, and have done several all-day rides. Although the pegs are indeed high, the position is surprisingly very nice. No knee strain or neck problems for me, and I am a hard sell. I do not plan to add vario pegs or the like .. there is absolutely no problem here, despite my grumpy old knees. Great commuter, canyon-carver, and sport tourer. Mad crazy power curve. Superb stability and handling. I honestly think you could fit this with a rear rack or soft bags and tour the shit out of it, or tape it up and race it. Of course for touring, the 140 mi range is a bit of a worry out here in Colorado and points west. Hope this helps.

My 2000 Sport behaved the exact same way. As stated, it is a tuning issue. Adjust the valves to world spec, not US spec. Then set your TPS per instructions presented in the sticky so named. The key is to ensure ALL your linkages are disconnected from the TBs in order to get accurate adjustments. Finish off with a good balancing of the TBs, but not at idle. Balance them so they are most evenly matched at 1500 and 3000 rpm. - Jim

I forgot to mention the price includes shipping CONUS.

Gently used. Yellow cover (ed.?). No bruises, missing bits, splooge, etc. To loving home only. Price: 40 USD Prefer US shipping, but I can manage international.

Listed on ADVrider at $7800 appox. Low miles. Not mine. I don't know the owner and have not seen the bike other than a pic. Looks to be in excellent to mint condition. I want this badly, but have no cash. I offered to swap my Laverda SF2 for it, but he's trying to thin the herd and not looking for more bikes. Somebody buy this awesome bike! If not, my offer stands .. if anyone here wants my Laverda, they can buy this Mk1 and we can work out a reasonable trade. - Jim

Sam, You know I'll be there. Hoping to have time to tune the Laverda so she can hang out with her Guzzi cousins.

I am on my third set of dual compound Roadsmarts, and they have become my tire of choice over the Pilot Road 2. Better mileage than the z6 or ME880, and far better peformance. These scrub in quicker than the PR2, are just as good in the rain and twisty bits, and last easily over 10k. Best rain tire I have ever used. The ONLY problems I have had with the PR2 is that they require several hundred miles of break in (not a huge deal .. just be aware), but more importantly, they suffer performance degradation in the latter half of their life. The Roadsmarts remain very consistent until the end of their life, and then they go very very quickly! Neither are particularly find of tar snakes (which are getting more prevalent on the roads I frequent). The Dunlops are easily $75 cheaper, each tire. Last two sets cost about $140 for the rear and $120 front, with free mount/balance. Used to do it myself, but as RH points out ... just not worth an afternoon of wrestling when the shop can do it in 10 minutes. Next set will be the newer pilot roads with triple compound. Curious to see if they can eliminate that raised center ridge that dual compounds tend to get. The ridge can sometimes create a rather abrupt transition from straight up to lean. YMMV

Anyone notice that this is a 6 year old thread?

Here is proof that old threads never die. Since this has come up again, I have a question for Ernst: What exactly is the benefit of this mod? I think the issues surrounding unpacking the cans have been well covered in this forum. Kudos to your ingenuity Ernst, but I do not see that this approach solves any problems. You still have a very heavy exhaust system, and no change in performance. Yes, the dyno sheet you supplied appears to show very slight increases in power, but I suspect this has more to do with the temperature change recorded on each run. I could be wrong, of course. It's happened to me once or twice before. Is there an improvement in sound quality / tone? Perhaps an improvement in throttle response that may not show up on the graph? I think most of us around here would need significant improvements to consider such a permanent change when it may limit the opportunity to do the occasional track day, or perhaps attract the attention of law enforcement if it turns out to be too loud. The latter is becoming MUCH more common in all regions, and excuses likely fall on deaf ears when the officer spots the silencer welds. So, a not an impossible thing here ... I'm just not sure I see it happening with this mod.

I found some CRG knockoffs on ebay, advertised for a ducati. Not only did they fit like a glove, they are nearly as good as the CRGs, but only $30 for the pair. I have them on the lovely lav sf2 and they barely vibe at sane speeds. Wot a deal.

I agree with Tom. I found that different tires require differing amounts of drop. On my short wb sport, 5 mm was perfect with the Pilot Roads. Pirellis liked 10 mm. Just start with 10 and adjust up or down. Much over 10 probably won't be an improvement. After adjustment, try a fairly fast throttle off decel with a light hold on the bars. If it wants to shake her head a bit, you're too low.

Got some bella machina there, Mikie. Too bad some are british. We won't hold it against you!

THIS is what I was actually shopping for when I bought the Laverda. Nice.

Nah, Parvo is just sitting up on the tank. Twice evidently. Try sitting on the seat, man and you won't dent your tank!

Gotta love those new GTs, eh Mikie? I'd trade ya.

I suspect you will!

I recommend the engine to frame ground. Also suggest searching for the headlight relay fix, and lastly I run a small bridge between the instrument light grounds and the instrument cases. Bright lights and gauges ARE possible!