ALdad

I don't know what the F-- all the #s mean either. I only know That C3 refers to the spacing of the balls affecting friction,heat build up and the life of the bearing. and I only know this from a disscussion on this site when I replaced my rear. I can't find the thread cuz I can't figure out how to get the search to work for me. But your right if they are still smooth I ain't changing them. Cheer!!

Thanx. Why not both C3?

Thank you, I love common sense answers!

While I am replacing my rotors I think I will do the bearings. The search does not work so well for me. Any body have the size for the front bearings. I mean the # I can take to my local bearing house?

Thanx, I am going to replace rotors and pads. Any recomendation on better than stock?

How many of you have actually measured your rotors? The manual says replace at 3.9, that’s .2 mm wear from new. .2mm is 2 sheets of paper. Could someone tell me how this small amount could make a difference in performance or safety? I am sure there is a reason. I would sure like to know. The bike has 34k mi. this is the second set of pads. The first were stock and the last ones were the Kevlar organic. I commute stop and go traffic and I hardly use any rear brake so I would assume the wear is normal. I don’t have a problem replacing the rotors, other than I am a cheap bastard. But I would like to know what the issues are with thinning discs from one who really knows brakes. I am guessing thin rotors are more susceptible to warping and eventually the calipers won’t grab, but .2mm, please. I have the same thoughts with our car when I am told I need new rotors every time it goes in for brakes

by ALdad 06 » Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:38 pm The pads on my 2000 sport need replacing. Rotors are about 3.4-3.5mm. What risks or issues am I taking in running one more set of pads maybe about 15k miles? I commute daily the bike stops just fine. But the pads are really thin. Will one more set of pads 15kmi. I am guessing will shave another .2 or .3 mm off rotors. Tell me if I am stupid in pushing it .

What width is the rear ? I like the handling better with the 160-60 tire on my sport. I have always liked the look of the Apina spokes, but they are little pricy. Do you think the build and ride quality is worth the $$. Any issues with maintaining air pressure?

Thanx, I'll replace bulbs this wknd. Man I've got a lot to learn.

I never changed any wires. I took the handelbar control apart. there is a metal plate on the top half that conformes to the shape of the handelbar. This plate is rusty, does this act as a ground ?

"Piece of sh##"?

Need some guidence here. Turn signal switch to Rt. position and front Rt. lights up but don't blink.The rear , nothing. Left switch position and both front blink and rear left blinks. I went over the bullet connectors and wires all seems OK. Any ideas? Buy the way this problem has been intermittent and when it started the dual front blinking was weak on one side. Now the dual front blink , both are strong. All this started before I did my recent head light relay.

Thanx docc, I will set up something like this soon.

Ya think? The socket is ceramic and all the wires are insulated . no metal touching pan.

I finished it today. I kept the leads as they came. Went directly to the battery, will see how it works. It was really tight in the headlight tub. I am sure the wires comming out of the socket are pushed against the back of the tub I hope it does'nt cause a problem down the road.

You are right, the battery posts got alot o stuff on em. Could you please elaborate a bit on the outboard power strip. How do I make one or are they readily available?

I was wondering if it was a mistake in the instructions It does say to connect to the alternators main output . As you said this is unregulated and that is why I was concerned about the 15amp fuse. The connection to the regulator makes more sense, Thanx!

Need some advice here. I am instaling a headlight relay kit from Eastern Beaver, funky name, nice product. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_...stallation.html The instructions say to hook the pos. and neg. leads to the battery posts or, the pos. to the alternators main output terminal and the neg to an alternate ground. This is recomended on bikes that have a main fuse to the battery from the alternator. my questions are, does this apply to the V11 and if I go directly to the alternator do I just splice into either of the two yellow alternator wires? I don't remember if I remove the Alt. cover if there is a terminal to bolt to. Which way do I go. The battery connect would be eaiser but I want what works best. Also the inline mini fuse is 15amp would the unregulated alternator ever put out enough to blow this fuse? Please advise Cheer!!Alan

Ever since I finished my sport(well It will probably never really be done, until it's done).I never stop thinking about my next bike. But I keep coming back to the reality that this is the perfect bike for me. I look around and cannot think of any thing I would rather be scootin down the road on. I live on this thing. Commuting every day rain or shine the past two years. With a custom seat ,parabellum fairing and standard handelbars( rubber mounted , rubber core(bar snake) and heavy barends), this is one really freekin sweet ride. It has also been very dependable. Replaced one rear wheel bearing, simple tune ups thanx to this site, all is good 24k mi. I don't have any problem with the forward zerk. I give it a squirt with each tire change. I use a small gun and a rotating McMaster Carr fitting that was recomended on this site . It does take a good yank to get it off but my knuckles still have complete skin coverage. Did I mention I have yet to see one on the road like mine. Yea, I dig my green goose.

What!!

If your like me and don't always want to follow the masses. A nice alternative to the Shock proof is the Shaeffers . It has Moly if you feel you need it. Really sticky and better shifting than the Motul http://www.schaefferoil.com/293_gear_lube.html

Ah, Ratch. Don't you get more entertainment value out of the new glue traps. Knowing a cute little rodent is franticly trying to chew his legs off to escape the sticky poisoned tomb. Why it just makes me feel warm and fuzzy all over.

Man has been trying to come up with a better mouse trap since it was first invented. I don't see why a spark plug would be any different. This may not be the one, but sooner or later some body will come up with something better. Take the light bulb for example. It's still the same basic thing as Edisons original. I prefer the PIAA.

Because they claim a larger not hotter spark in all directions I thought may be it would produce a more complete burn. I know my plugs always look more toastie on one side.