Baldini

It may not be flywheel failure but it sounds likely to me. Otherwise - worn plate? sticking pushrod? hydraulics? Did you buy locally - new from OYB?

You racing Jim?

For sure the Scura came with too soft springs. Impossible to set up for my weight (200lbs). Stiffer springs made everything different - the bike became usable & the adjustments meaningful (tho the rear has far too much high speed comp damping). It's said the 03 & later bikes have Ohlins much better set up from stock. KB

That's about right on my 02 Scura (kept clean, little winter or rain use). My understanding is that the Ohlins are designed primarily for low mileage sports use with all that implies. They run relaxed seals for lower stiction (try the action on these forks to see for yourself, there is very little stiction). Seal replacement is straightforward, the forks are well made & easy to work on. ...AND...the adjustability. Once you're in the ballpark with correct springs Ohlins forks can be tuned very accurately. Both forks carry rebound/compression adjusters with a wide range of adjustment. They work extremely well & each clik effects a small but precise & noticeable change. You have to decide for yourself if this is something you want. Now I've had it, I do. KB

It's the Gooseneck on IOM & I have never been happier.

Don't assume the Ti kit ECU will run well without further tuning. In my experience it ran different (felt much richer) but no better than stock one. Gets you in the ball park but I fitted a PC111 & had dyno time to get it running well (I consider it worth it). KB

Aw for f*cks sake stop infesting every thread with this inane wordy bickering.......err...I'll get me coat. KB

Good luck mate. Hope things come right for you. KB

Martin doesn't like shiny things... Welcome Ross! You mean you ride in the rain...in Scotland...in November? Good lord man - no wonder the bike doesn't want to start! KB

If anyone's still interested, I have heard of two more failures. I have been told that the Scura clutch is based on the RAM design, MG purchasing some parts of the clutch assy from RAM but not all: RAM did not supply the flywheels . This fits with what we know so far. If anyone has detailed photographs of any similar failures not yet posted here, I would be grateful if you would include them in a reply in this thread. Thank you. KB

Who?

I'm sure, but I'd be interested to know the oil level in the bike when this occurred. KB

Before any dismantling, it would be worth, for interest, checking current oil level. There are no signs of external oil loss? KB

I never had any work done at Twiggers but on the few occasions when I've been in or spoken with them, & in supplying bits, they've been helpful. The mechanic there was the man who first put us on to the reason pawl springs were breaking...when no-one else (it seemed) had a clue... KB

I was gonna get a RAM clutch. Supplier has one with carbon fibre friction material. I have no experience of this. Anyone know is it a reliable longterm material for road/trackday use? Thanks, KB

I am sorry to hear of your loss. I also lost my brother. It is very hard. Good luck with the bike, Guzzis are worth the effort. Best wishes, KB

I never fancied TT week - but I went 3 times for the Manx - MAGIC! If you love motorcycling, the IOM is a VERY special place & the Manx GP is a v special time. KB

Haven't seen one break there before. They usually go at 90degree bend. Everything else in order? KB

So the spring broke even tho boss is correct size. Where was the break? Is there a pin in your plate (at middle on left in photo) that limits pawl arm movement? On oversize boss I had 3 springs go in very short order, but since I put in the 15mm boss - no problems. Thought we had the problem fixed. Indeed, this was the fix eventually given by MG service bulletin. So it puzzles me why yours broke. Guzzi also supply a spring with a larger diameter winding - did you compare new spring w/old?. KB

Richard, you know to check the diameter of the pawl arm boss that the spring coil sits on? The reason the springs break is that on some bikes this boss is 16mm diameter & spring binds. It should measure 15mm. KB

Are the marks on yours at a different part of the circumference to the paint blobs I put on: There were no marks on mine, as I recall I put them there cos that was neutral position? It's a far while since I had the plate off so I'm going on memory - I thought that photo shows neutral position but I could be remembering wrong - either way the photo shows the gears correctly aligned to each other, & you can check they're in neutral position by looking to see that the detent roller sits in the neutral slot on the back of the wheel. KB

This is a photo of selector gears in neutral. Some are marked, some aren't. I put a dab of paint on. The gears are in this position when the detente roller acting on the back of the top gear is in the short spaced cutaway (halfway between 1st & 2nd). Centre selector forks on shafts (so that spaces to each side are equidistant) to put in neutral position. KB

Not sure about that. If same as old bikes, that cap simply covers access to centre top head nut which is open to atmosphere. No oil galleries. But I haven't opened a V11 so it may be different? KB

Hey Al! Good man! I have a T3 looks like it's set up similar to yours but with LM heads/carbs & SP barells/pistons & Zocchi forks: On a twisty road there wouldn't be much in it between it my Scura - & not sure which'd come out on top. The Scura is faster but softer & more unwieldy & you can get your weight much further over the front on the Tonti. You do right not to sell it! This year I've ridden the Tonti more than the Scura ....mainly cos Scura runs out of tyres so fast....but I wouldn't sell either of them. KB

Yes. KB