OldButNotDead

At the risk of promoting thread drift...the RE Cafe and Guzzi V7 models have crossed my mind, but I wasn't sure the relatively minor weight reductions would be worth the loss of oomph. I hadn't gotten as far as considering weights with modifications. The sexy Triumph Thruxton appeared on the radar, but $$$. Because the local Guzzi dealer also carries RE, test rides should be easy, but my time / energy began sublimating post-pandemic and I've not been yet. I did just buy a charity raffle ticket for a V7 (Cadre Cycle, mentioned on WIldGuzzi)

Given all the great input, I'm guessing my main clutch issue was resolved with a new slave cylinder piston seal, but I'll also want to revise some maintenance practices. Thanks for all the suggestions! I have changed out all the brake/clutch fluid every year - using a Mityvac to pull fluid out through Speedbleeders. I assumed that if there's little/no air in the system when I start, and I don't run the reservoir dry, it should be all good. I do try to re-bleed if it feels noticeably spongy. My current thought is that the tacky sealant on the Speedbleeder has dried out, letting some air enter, giving the feel of a broader clutch engagement/disengagement zone. If I find the clutch well-behaved next season, I'll plan to install a remote bleeder for the clutch slave, and extend my relationship with this beast. Longer term, it's not clear that I am enthusiast enough to continue fighting the increasingly demanding maintenance battle that will be needed. I have dallied with the idea of moving to a more casual relationship with a new Triumph 400 that's 150 lbs lighter, and in concept might provide a similar joy of movement.

Makes sense Doc, thanks! I'd forgotten that the engagement screw exists. When I got the bike back from Cadre, my initial feeling was that the clutch engagement zone had somehow shrunk, and less lever travel was needed to go from a fully disengaged to a fully engaged clutch. I was having a tough time modulating the slip-zone. That improved when I re-adjusted the CRC roll-a-click lever to better fit my hand, but more investigating will be needed. In principle, I don't think either the lever position or the engagement screw should affect the "width" of the clutch engagement zone, so long as they are set to operate outside the limits of the hydraulic system.

Brilliant! I wonder if a variant of this general approach could keep my 87yo dear-old-Dad from peeing all over the floor vs in the toilet? Doc - were there characteristic symptoms when the clutch master cylinder spring let go? I'm not convinced my issues are resolved, so will file all these suggestions away for future reference.

Will need to consider this if I run the reservoir dry while bleeding. Not hard to do.

I believe so - my clutch slave has never been serviced, so if you say it came with a Grimeca, then this kit includes a seal that fits the 30mm piston. It's flat and measures something like 3.5 x 3.5 mm. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-14242-d351783.aspx

A few months ago - after 20 years and about 21,000 mi - I lost the clutch on my 2003 V11 Naked. No power to the rear wheel with bike in gear and the lever fully released. I wasn't particularly surprised, since clutch engagement had been uneven and grabby earlier in the season, and finding neutral with a hot engine has been difficult the past couple years. After spending more than a little quality time reading this and other clutch threads, I realized that my limited time, space, and skills weren't up to this task. Given the increasing challenges associated with maintaining this old bike, I considered selling it for parts, but then contacted the good people at Cadre Cycle, who agreed to take it on. Enzo suggested the clutch slave cylinder was at fault, and Tim found a potential seal from an auto application, so I decided to chance a repair. They swapped out the swingarm bearings while it was off, so glad to have that done. I've not had much opportunity to test it, but got out for a short ride last week, and it was well-behaved. We've got cold and snow already, so I won't know more until next season, but at least there will be hope during the cold dark winter that when hibernation ends, I'll have a V11 to ride. Doc's clutch tribulations and the rally to assist with spare slaves inspired me, so I ordered a couple of seals (Dorman D351783) to aid the cause. Doc, if you'd like a couple seals that *might* fit your spares, shoot me a PM and I'll send them along.

I had a few made up when a rear bearing failed after only 3 years. I do still have a spare made from this: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/carbon-steel/1-od-x-0-095-wall-x-0-81-id-carbon-steel-round-tube-a513-type-5-dom/pid/7564 I don't recall flanges, but can say that I installed one in 2006 and haven't had any bearing failures since.

I've likely got a spare (I had several made years ago) for the cost of shipping. Can check if you like.

This looks to be sorted, so thought I'd post an update. My issue was a slow fuel seep from the fuel level sensor, which had never been off the tank since I purchased the bike new. Gas was collecting under the rubber boot, so after seeing the photo Chuck posted, I suspected it was seeping through the potting or one of the mounting flange-washer-sensor mating surfaces. I guessed that the leak would be less localized if the tank-flange interface (ie - the o-ring) was the problem instead. I pulled the sensor and found the aluminum washer at the base was pretty cruddy. Likewise there was material caked onto the rubber of the sensor housing itself. Guessing this was mostly calcium phosphate from EtOH-water issues. I also found that the sensor had come unglued from its rubber housing, perhaps because the rubber had swollen over the years (see photo). The mounting flange and o-ring had a bit of caking as well. I cleaned everything up, re-installed with Permatex non-hardening liquid gasket, and leak tested O/N with a 1/2 tank of gas. Next day…TA-DA! No leaks…what a hero! I filled the tank on my victory ride, and sure enough the wife complained of gas smell in the garage-adjacent TV room that same night. I'd had enough. I bought a new sensor and a tube of the reputedly magic Hylomar, drained and dried the tank, and brought it inside where I could work on it patiently. All mating surfaces got skim coats of Hylomar, which was allowed to dry thoroughly at RT before assembly. It's been about a week with no leaks. I don't know precisely why the old one was leaking, but decided I'm ready to move on and live with a little more mystery in my life.

Much obliged gentlemen. Regarding removing / reinstalling the tank multiple times, hanging it partly full to ensure no leaks, installing a new o-ring and blue-goo, eyeing a new sensor on Ebay....guilty. I've never had the sensor out of its mounting fixture, so it's time to check that washer. Seems like a likely culprit given the pooling into the boot. Any harm in applying a thin coat of non-hardening fuel-resistant liquid gasket to the washer (assuming it's intact) ? The upside is that this leak pushed me to finally get some EtOH-free gas and groom the rubber pucks. Just anuther day with the V11.

Super helpful to have this documented! My V11 developed a fuel leak while it was in storage this past winter, and I've localized it to a slow seep at the fuel level sensor. After leaving it overnight, I peeled back the rubber boot, I found it filled with fuel. So, I'm wondering if the leak is somehow through the body of the sensor, rather than past the screws or around the o-ring. I can't recall any mentions of this, but maybe someone else has or has ideas about whether it's likely or repairable. I've got blue goo, but the weeping continues....

I've used Convertibars for some years - got them when the bike was being used both for track days and casual riding. https://www.convertibars.com/ These days all that adjustment range lets me fold the bars in for Winter garage storage.

All knowing all seeing protector of all things V11, Doc, is correct on multiple counts again. That system is long gone. If it's any consolation, performance wasn't nearly as spunky as I would have liked, it made the bike sound like a car, and it scraped in hard right-handers. --OlderButStillNotDeadHoweverDumfoundedAtTheCompleteFaceplantCommonsenseHasTakenAndPrayItGetsBackUpASAP

I was recently inspired to try and improve my headlight. Didn't succeed, but thought my experience might be useful to share. The deflector inside my original shell came loose some years back, and though I've been able to wire it back in the sort of vicinity of its proper location, the output and pattern is silly poor. I tried a 7" Grote sealed beam from Summit Racing (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gte-90941-5), hoping it could be adapted without too much fuss. I found that some fuss would been needed. I may eventually go that route, if I can convince an engineer buddy to design and 3D print an adapter. In the meanwhile, I'll be sticking to daylight riding. I would be happy to hear of a source for a fully intact OEM unit.