tmcafe

My axle doesn't thread into the fork leg. It is hollow and threaded at the right end (not like in the manual) and is tightened by a large nut. I'm sure it was designed for bikes that have a damping adjustment screw on the bottom of the fork leg hence the notch at the opposite end.

Superb bike, mint, no issues ever, always garaged by first and second owner. Originally purchased and serviced at MPH Cycles in Houston. Guzzi windshield from MG Cycle. Brand new hard side cases, center stand, and engine guards, not installed. Bike currently at second owner in Utah. Most miles are from its trip from Houston! $5000 http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/IMG_3069_zpsefe20edc.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/BrevaDash_zpseb047c54.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/BrevaOdo_zps20bb8022.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva3_zpsadb399a6.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva4_zpscac4f756.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva1_zpsd2259b03.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva2_zps0df25a7c.jpg

Seeking one in good shape (ends not worn out), e.g., from somebody who ditched their OEM pipes.

Thanks. I forgot which brand the battery is but it's the original one I got from new with the bike in Sep of 2007. I tried again today and I could hear the pump and the click from the starter relay (I pulled out and reinserted before that). I'll try to find my charger and charge the battery before I look into more.

I suspected it might be silly Thx.

Thanks. A good reason to find my meter in some of the garage boxes I haven't opened since I moved. As far as the handlebar and connection, I've had that problem before and the contacts have been replaced. But I'll try again just in case. I suspect it might be the voltage since the pump priming noise didn't come back on subsequent tries.

Granted I haven't started it for quite a while (late fall). Not on battery tender but light came on fine, gas pump noise (at least the first time I turned the key on), horn, turn signals, only no starter action whatsoever. I also checked the obvious kill switch. Does it need a whole lot more juice to turn the starter that the appearance of the other electricals? Sorry if it's a silly question.

As stated earlier, not having to remove the entire exhaust system to access the alternator was the likely cause behind a non-welded front x-over... Yes, forgot that. Although if it's just for doing the valves it's easier to turn the rear wheel to find the TDC.

True, a few more screws but easier to handle. Plus you see what shape they're in the headers' gaskets. Welding would get rid of the extra joint maintenance, but wonder if there's a reason for having the crossover mobile. Maybe it's just Luigi who wanted the crossover but didn't want to redesign the pipes to have the crossover welded, so he improvised the current system.

True, a few more screws but easier to handle. Plus you see what shape they're in the headers' gaskets. Welding would get rid of the extra joint maintenance, but wonder if there's a reason for having the crossover mobile. Maybe it's just Luigi who wanted the crossover but didn't want to redesign the pipes to have the crossover welded, so he improvised the current system.

Thanks. What was the reason you switched back to the original gaskets? Leaks? One thing I noticed after I installed the shims is that there's more vibration above 5k, I can feel it in the pegs. Maybe I should tighten the whole thing like in the example you mention. If the original gaskets are so $$, the shims are a better buy anyway.

Well, Guzzi may have been doing a styling exercise, trying to better tie in the new LeMans w/ the original, which had a hard-welded front x-over [that was a source of complaint due to the tedium of removing the one-piece header system]? I postulated on Guzzitech once that the front x-over would have had some f/x on the 4k rpm dip, & Todd's reply was that with a better collector & a PCIII it was unnecessary & more reliable to go w/ no front x-over. Not exactly my point [mine being a path of frugality], but the better solution, no doubt. I assume the PC and simple aftermarket headers work very well, though it's a more pricy solution than fixing the crossover. Curious if anybody went back to the OEM crossover gaskets.

I should have done my homework better. I vaguely remembered a discussion where Greg said that the crossover does have a role. In the same post, I found their shop's cure for the loose crossover joints: http://www.v11lemans...72entry140272 After all, there must be a logic to the fiber/graphite gaskets that prevent too much vibration in the headers and joints.

I guess that might be a problem. In retrospect I should have kept the original sleeve/gasket on the left, where it was almost fine (the pipe would still spin in the sleeve though). I just didn't want to feel like it was patched.

If you mean the pipe cracked near the cylinder head that's strange. Nice to get old-school help fixing it at the shop. I noticed that the shims were very tight as I inserted them. However, the exhaust is still leaking a little, I can feel the engine pulses if I hold my hand near the crossover joints. But less noisy than with the loose crossover before.

Thanks SH. The crossover was pretty loose but I ended up removing the right header to clean/scoop out whatever was left from the fiber gasket. Had to do the same with the left header. Strange that I couldn't see the fiber gaskets that are supposed to go in the compression chamber--maybe there were the dark gray smooth rings inside that looked like they were part of the rim before the opening to the comp. chamber. The problem is that I snapped the screw when I tightened back the left clamp on the crossover (though I didn't tighten it too much, definitely not more than the one on the right). For now it's tight enough just from the new steel shims and the tight clamp on the right. The rest of the screw with the head can't be extracted from the clamp, so I'll need a new one. Hope they're available.

Just got the Aaron Bard made steel shims (the crossover has become loose and leaks around the joints, with classical symptoms like exhaust popping at lower revs, running rougher and more vibey, etc). Now I'm looking forward to installing the shims. Sorry for the dumb question, but what's the best way to do it? Gracias!

I never had a problem using the stand (including the sump spindle), except for one detail that others here have noticed as well: the span between the arms with notches that are supposed to hold the bolts on the bike is slightly bigger so the bolt heads aren't resting completely in the notches. Just be careful when you set it up. I remember some folks fixed this issue by pressing the arms together a little.

I need to change or at least tighten my rear tire valve stem. Somebody here recommended the Ariete: http://www.motowheel...or=&collection= but they come in 8.3mm, not 6. Hmm. I still haven't gotten mine from the dealer. Keep us posted. Edit: you might try contacting these guys too: http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/tire_valves/index.htm

Yes, that's the reality. I know most of them if not all don't even like any tire business, and that's why I always buy tires from the same shop that installs them (unless I mount them myself, which I do on the other bike). But one would think if there's such a small detail to check such as the valve, they would do it routinely. In fact they asked me if I needed the valve stem changed, but when they saw it was metal not rubber they said it didn't need changed.

Since I'm having to deal with this problem (now waiting for a new valve stem): I strongly encourage you to check the valve stem for any leaks. Use some soapy water and spray around the valve stem while the tire is on and has pressure. That's how I found out my valve stem was leaking right above the nut on the outside. It may just need to be tightened, but for that the tire should be removed again. Or it may be that the gasket has aged and doesn't seal perfectly anymore. Anyway, easy to do, probably neglected most of the time. Don't count on the shop to do that for you.

The reason I recommended "diesel" oils is because they still have reasonable levels of ZDDP in them due to the higher peak loadings in a diesel vs. spark-ignition motor. MCN [American version] did an oil test sometime in the past decade where the Rotella [non-synth] version came out tops in key areas [ash content, ZDDP, etc.] and the synth version has performed even better in any bike I've run it in [longer b4 the shifting gets clunky, in shared-oil x-mission bikes...] The reason diesel oils can get away w/ still putting in the ZDDP is they all display "Not to be used in pollution controlled vehicles" on the warning label. And WalMart carries them, unlike special motorcycle lube, which wouldn't sell in high enough quantities to interest them. Wally often also carries Mobil 1 Moto (both 10-40 and 20-50 at around $8-9/qt (granted still more than the Diesel oils) though sometimes not on the same shelves with the other motor oils.

Thanks. Good to know. Couldn't open the direct link but went to the main page and also found the Marchesini (out of stock/sp order), about half the price of Arieta: http://www.motowheel...or=&collection= What's the plus for Arieta? Did you have any experience with them? I replaced my stockers when I changed tires. Real quality product and with the 90 degree stem makes adding air a breeze. Different colors add bling. They look great and seem to be well made. The Marchesini 90º seems to be identical, minus the finish. I also notice they have a different (more simple) way of attachment to the rim than the straight one: