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justmike

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About justmike

  • Birthday 07/28/1957

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  • My bike(s)
    2008 Kawasaki ZX-14

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  1. justmike

    justmike

  2. New in original packaging, odometer bevel drive for 2000 V11Sport, P/N 4768300. Make an offer, as I have no idea what it's worth. Ships from Ontario, Canada. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b569/justmiketoo/image_zpsbxjnz0j0.png
  3. Complete brand new lock set for V11 Sport - includes gas cap, ignition switch, seat lock, and helmet lock. Make me an offer.
  4. NOS lock set including ignition switch, gas cap, trunk lock, and helmet lock. Asking $200 Cdn.
  5. I got my box of screws in & I will check to see if I have one. Send me your address n I will ship to you.

    Gene

  6. Looking for a set of screws (really only need one) that secure the oil cooler to the mounting brackets on a 2000 V11 Sport. One of my mounting brackets finally broke - and I stripped the hex socket out of one of these screws while trying to remove it. Murphy's law of course - the other three came out without a hitch These screws are black oxide finished, 6mm x 1.0 thread, with a shallow domed head about 16mm. in diameter and a 4mm. hex socket. I found some close alternatives but would like to keep things as original as possible.
  7. It's like a Heli-Coil or a Time-sert for valve guides... Do a forum search, Pete 'splains it better than I can. I did search the forum, and then Googled K-line. Learned something new today Just hoping I don't have to go there!
  8. I like the sounds of that. In fact, the last time I had the airbox of I did notice a slight build-up of oil in one side of the airbox - can't remember which side - but I do remember wondering "what the heck is that from?" It makes some sense that every time you'd come to a stop that oil would flow forward into the intake, and flow backward when you accelerated. I'll pull it of next week and have a look - if there's a puddle is it likely I've got too much oil in the crankcase, or have I got some other problem?
  9. 1st thing is a compression test, to see if the compression on that cylinder is significantly lower on that side; if so, it'll be new ring time. If the compression checks out, then you'll want to check the valves on that cylinder for too much side2side slop; the V11s have a bit of a reputation for Guzzi using some very fine Italian cheese in the making of their valve guides ; a K-line reportedly will set that problem right. Best o' luck w/ that. Thanks Skeeve - that sounds like a good starting point. Because of the lack of smoke at speed I was thinking not likely rings, and more likely your suggestion about valve guides. Not familiar with the term K-line - wussat?
  10. I had noticed that every time I'd come back from a ride and turned off the bike there'd be a faint plume of smoke rising from the right exhaust - nothing from the left. I chalked this up to maybe an un-fired injection of fuel into that cylinder upon shutdown and didn't give it much more thought than that - it looked kinda cool - like some of the images in an Ogri comic. Yesterday I went for a ride with a friend and let him take my Guzzi, following on my Beemer. I noticed every time we stopped that the right exhaust of the Guzzi smoked significantly, but cleared up immediately as we pulled away, and nothing even remotely noticeable at speed. Not so cool - and now I'm sleepless! The bike only has 4500 miles on it. I haven't done any investigation yet - hoping somebody might have some pointers before I waste time going down the wrong path.
  11. You're probably right - but I've got this control issue where things just gotta do what they're told to do
  12. I just had the same problem - went straight to the electric petcock and voila - both wires fell off in my hands! It's quite a simple job to solder them back on - the chrome cap on the bottom of the valve slides off, leaving plenty of access to the solder connections to the coil. Slid the cap back on, applied a little epoxy into the well around the wires and stuck the tank back on. Fired right up and runs great. This forum just saved me hours of head-scratching - thanks for the help. My next step is to hit the donate button.....
  13. Good call on the "standard torque value" for 8.8 grade bolts - I agree. I think the manual's reference to "high resistance bolts" confirms what you're saying about the 12.9 grade - they must me differentiating for a reason. I installed mine with Loctite blue paste, and torqued to 39 Nm. - felt good going together (in three steps ) - hopefully it'll stay together.
  14. That seems to be in the right ballpark - works for me. You're the man raz - thank you.
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