Buzzard

Here is a spare alternator cover. I was going to have it powder coated to match body color, never got it done. Here's your chance. $35 plus $5 for shipping.

Here is the fast and simple. On the rear, you want the spring to be about 152MM in length between the adjuster rings when the shock is fully extended. The compression knob, on the bottle looking thing on the LH side, is to be 10 clicks out from fully in. The rebound adjuster, the knurled ring just above the lower shock eye, is to be 20 clicks out from fully in. On the fork adjusters, one atop each leg, the manual has no starting points, but an OK way is to count the available clicks, then go out half that as a starting point. I find on my V11 that setting all of these settings (comp and rebound) out a few more than std works well. All of these settings are starting points, and can be fooled with till you are either happy or exhausted. As to just what all these do, how much spring preload is needed, and so on can fill up a couple of sides of typewriter paper. But yes, a little more preload is good with a passenger. PM me if you want the long version.

I went with the pump relocation choice on my 2002. The stock pump is too large to put any place else, as is the filter. I found a pump made by MSD, the ignition people, which is intended for FI motors installed in kit cars. While quite small, it works well enough to feed a 600HP V8. Behind it I mounted a filter recommended for this pump, a beautiful machined finned aluminum affair with a serviceable element. All of this was small enough to mount on the LH side on a frame rail beneath the seat. While at it, I went with velocity stacks and K&N filters. I live in mountain country, altitude worsens the vapor lock problem. I have about 20K miles on this setup with no further problem.

I don't have the answer to the original question, but I do have something to say about this. I live at 6000' alt., and have a 2002 LeMans with the Ti pipes and race ECU. It would not run cleanly at lower RPMs, bucking and snorting in traffic. I did set the TPS per recommendations on this site, using a volt meter and such. No help. I then carefully marked the position of the TPS, and moved it just a hair one way a bit, a bit more, the other way a bit, and a bit more, taking careful note of any changes in running characteristics. I did find a sweet spot where my bike runs near perfect. The sweet spot was just a hair advanced of the "text book" setting. My Guzzi runs quite well now.

As stated by others, you will need a gel or AGM battery. The top of the line Yuasa brand can be had at nearly any motorcycle shop. I picked up an excellent battery at a Batteries+ store, at a bargain price. Yes, keep the bike. A Moto Guzzi is not much like a Japanese bike as far as living through a lack of care. We who do own them, and keep on with them, think of them as an enthusiasts bike. We do reap rewards satisfactory to our level of involvement. If your father's Guzzi begins to wear on you, take a break from it, and get back to it when you have time. The day may well come when you find out what a Guzzi does for you. Hope so!

While on a ride several days ago, I noticed a bit too much travel in my rear brake pedal. After checking the fluid level and linkage, I gave the rear wheel a sideways shake, sure enough, it's a touch loose. After dis-assembly, the LH bearing proves to be trashed. After doing some cross referencing, I find that the Suzuki GSXR-1100 uses the same rear bearing, as do several other models. I go to the local Suzuki dealer to find that they carry All Balls brand bearings, and the correct bearing sells for $4.95. For less than $10.00, I have two of them. A couple of installation notes. I removed the sealing skirt on one side of each bearing, and packed in a bit more grease. The factory seems to be a bit stingy with the grease. The spacer that rides between the two bearings seemed to have about .008" gap, I decided that a little side thrust must be OK, so that's how I left it. The LH bearing failed, it was completely dry, rusting, and the balls disintegrating. The RH bearing still had grease, it was as good as new. This, with 22,000 miles, tells me that the slight side thrust didn't kill the bearings. Also, after installing, I checked the LH bearing after a spirited ride, it was not warm to the touch. I pulled the rear drive unit off the bike while doing this. I found that removing the zerk on the driveshaft makes it easier to both remove and install. No air lock. I greased the rear u-joint, couldn't get the front. I will do that when the snow flies, removing the swingarm. The needle bearing on the RH side of the drive was pretty dry. I'm glad I got to it when I did. Seems that both outer sides or the rear end suffer from pressure washing (not me, probably the previous owner), or the elements. Pulling the rear drive off is a snap, and something I will do every tire change from now on.

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One thing I would be trying on a dyno run is various settings of the throttle position sensor (TPS). It is easy to mark the home position where the sensor sits in the throttle body, then move it ever so slightly clockwise, then counter clockwise, and see what the results are. I have done this with my bike, without the aid of a dyno, and have had good results with performance. The best result is that I got rid of the sneezes off idle, and removed the flat spot mid range. I would really like to see the results on a dyno. I ended up moving my TPS just a tiny bit clockwise as you look down on it. This was after setting it to the recommended millivolts, after setting the throttle bodies, and so on. Setting the TPS is just another tuning variable you can play with.

[ I cut a hole in the end of the RH K&N filter pod, and attached it there, where it senses the temp of the intake air

For sale here is the first year Softail, First year and model with the then new EVO motor, last of the 4 speed kick starts with chain drive. It's just about an antique, but runs and rides with the new ones. 29K miles, it is in exceptional condition, cosmetically, and mechanically. Price is $6000, it is located in western Colorado.

If everything proves to be correct and proper in the rear drive, here is something that affects throttle abruptness on the Guzzi. Try moving the throttle position sensor (TPS) just a bit. Mark where it is now, so it can be retuned to home under any circumstances. I found that turning mine just a tiny bit counter-clockwise (as viewed from above) worked miracles. I know about all the methods for adjusting the TPS, and have done so on my LeMans, but to be honest, it runs much better, and has better drivability, with the TPS advanced. If I recall, the voltmeter shows 750mv at closed throttle with the setting I now use. This drivability includes the letting out of the clutch, shifting and throttling into the next gear, and rolling on and off the throttle. It's an easy adjustment to make, takes a few minutes to do. As I said at the beginning, if it does nothing for your bike, return it to home, and try something else.

I thought I would tell you about my test results as to charging voltage and grounding. Before running additional grounds, testing at the battery terminals with a digital volt meter, I got at idle: 12.3V, at 1K RPM: 13.2V fluctuating somewhat, at 2500-3000 RPM: 13.1-13.6V fluctuating wildly. After additional ground wires, at idle: 12.5, at 1000RPM: 13.6 steady, at 2500RPM: 14.6 steady. This motorcycle was actually staying charged just fine, until I installed heated grips. An additional bonus was that the running characteristics of this bike changed dramatically. I used to think that the program of the ECU was just a little crude, you know, what with this just being a Guzzi and all. I no longer feel that way, it runs just fine, no hiccupping, coughing, or stalling. It is one very fine fuel injection/ignition map.

Additional grounding will do no harm, and probably help. Run a wire from the regulator mounting bolt to the engine case. Another from the battery neg terminal to the engine/transmission case. One more, from the frame to engine case is a good idea. I know that the bike came with ground wires, but the terminals, contact areas, and even the wires can fail. On my LeMans, poor grounding was playing havoc with the voltage, which affected the fueling and ignition. After running a few ground wires it was a different motorcycle.

I had the dreaded vapor lock with my 2002 LeMans. To cure it, I removed the air box, went with velocity stacks/K&N filters, mounted a new, smaller fuel pump not beneath the tank, with a new smaller fuel filter. The air box has to go, to allow room for relocation. I just couldn't see leaving the fuel lines/filter over the cylinders to bake. Never a problem since.