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Walterg last won the day on February 27 2017

Walterg had the most liked content!

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  • My bikes
    2003 V11 Le Mans, Honda FireBlade, Kawasaki GPZ1100UT, Yamaha FZR600R, Suzuki DR500S
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  1. Thanks. Mine is indeed vented and I know it's open because it let's water in.
  2. 15 years later..... What do you guys mean with "Burping" the bevel drive?
  3. Well. I'm leaving things as they are now. No more weird sounds and the bike rides wonderfull. I'll fitt the new speedometer cable that arrived today and while I am at it find out why the tachometer was jumping up and down all the time. So time for some electronics.
  4. Yes indeed. With mine it sounds very clunky though.
  5. Wow!! Thanks for explaining Pete. Love the bit of history too! It's completely clear now. By the looks of the diagonal and rounded faces on parts #15 and #16 sudden rotational changes direct the energy into the spring washers which will compress and store the energy. When the rotational force lets off again the stored energy is released back to the drive shaft. I have to admit I love this stuff!
  6. By the looks of it part 15 is made out of rubber and sits between parts 13 and 17 to take the impact of sudden radial loads. The discs (parts 18) form a Belleville spring and catch the axial movements caused by the rear wheel going up and down and thus pushing the drive shaft into the gearbox. Right?
  7. Can somebody explain what this does? I think it is supposed to 'dampen' shocks coming from the rear wheel.
  8. The rattle disappeared after I screwed the gearbox back in the bike again the first time. Since I messed up he clutch the first time I had to take the gearbox off again. After putting everything back together again the second time the rattle is still gone but the clunking sound you hear when you push the bike back and forth and change direction from forwards to backwards (again with the bike in gear and my hand pulling the clutch lever in) seems louder. The bike rides lovely though. During the ride I don't perceive any weird sounds or unwanted movement in the drivetrain. Changing gears is fine like it has always been. Indeed I now understand that this and this should be in the same picture.
  9. Thanks for the picture Docc. So far I haven't been able to find anything on how the wormwheel bushing in the gearbox that drives the spindle sits on the shaft. I unscrewed the speedo cable and found that it was just broken. Again no indication as to what is causing those sounds. I rode 120km today and I rode the bike pretty hard but no indication that anything is wrong with the gearbox.
  10. I fixed the slipping clutch. The cause was a big blob of grease that I somehow managed to get on the clutch plates and did not notice during assembly. I also fitted the rubber O-seal on the drive shaft. After I checked the gearbox a while back I have been riding the bike a few times now (about 300 km) and I did not come across any issues indicating there is a problem with the drive train / gearbox. This morning though my speedometer stopped working. The cable 'looks' fine but I will check it when I get home tonight. The idea that the issue is with the shaft that extends from the final drive shaft into the gearbox (Gearbox outgoing) is growing. Although at this moment I can't find any picture or drawing which shows which part drives the speedometer transmission. I have a one week holiday planned with the bike starting the 29th of August. I hope it will be clear and fixed by then.
  11. Yeah. I'll fix that this week when I have a look at the clutch.
  12. Still some more work to do: While cleaning up my workbench I found the rubber driveshaft seal ring on my workbench Under high load (shifting back one or two gears and giving a lots of throttle) the clutch is slipping which I never had before I took everything apart. I'm sure the clutch assembly is fine. I'll do a search to see what I can find on this.
  13. Yesterday I finished putting the bike back together again and now the rattle is gone! After having made two test rides I was not able to reproduce the rattle. Pushing the bike makes no sound at all. I'm still puzzled as to what it may have been but I had a close look at many parts and everything looked and felt good. Let's see if it stays this way. At the moment I'm just very happy I can ride again! When assembling the bike and because the motor was still in the frame I had to mount the clutch in a vertical position. To keep the springs in place while screwing on the clutch disk I wedged some electric wire between the spring coils then pushed the disk against the flywheel while holding the wire taut and then pulled out the wire through the center hole. I was amazed about how well this worked This is the PVC centering tool that I made. Worked perfect the first time! The PVC end-cap that I bought in the DIY shop had the perfect measurements. I glued some extra pieces on it to align the two clutch discs. May thanks for all your great comments and suggestions. I'm all happy now! By the way: The clutch plates thickness was at 57% so I reused them. The oil was coming from two bolts so I tightened them a bit.
  14. The bike has to move so I'm putting everything together again. After that I'll figure out what to do next. Grazy that I coudn't find anything. I hope it's not in the drive shaft damper (15 - 18) which I can't see unless I take the shaft out. Which I didn't.
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