ALdad Posted May 2, 2008 Author Share Posted May 2, 2008 I am looking at the manual and under Alternator, it says Check the winding isolation towards earth. Connect one connecting point of the meter to one of the two yellow cabels and the other to earth(laminar pack). I am assuming earth mean ground? what is the laminar pack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Laminar pack is the laminated metallic stator core........ normally isolated (insulated) from the stator windings. Also normally, the stator core is at chassis ground, that is... not isolated from the chassis. Continuity with a stator winding connection would indicate a winding short-circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 I am trying to hunt down the yellow reg wire and check those connections... Your charging voltage is out of range, but not terrible. Do check the drop in voltage between regulator (red/green wire) and battery while charging. Some drop is normal. You might be getting as much as 14.6 at the regulator, but it may be dropping to 13.7 at the battery. Consider bypassing the line if there is significant voltage drop. But it could be any of the wires, related connections or ground points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 I am trying to hunt down the yellow reg wire and check those connections... Your charging voltage is out of range, but not terrible. Do check the drop in voltage between regulator (red/green wire) and battery while charging. Some drop is normal. You might be getting as much as 14.6 at the regulator, but it may be dropping to 13.7 at the battery. Consider bypassing the line if there is significant voltage drop. But it could be any of the wires, related connections or ground points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tripletom Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 To update, since fitting an inline 30A fuse holder for the battery circuit, the voltages remained the same, however the fuse is not displaying signs of melting. I am waiting on some silver grease to turn up to do the connections, but so far, so good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 To update, since fitting an inline 30A fuse holder for the battery circuit, the voltages remained the same, however the fuse is not displaying signs of melting. I am waiting on some silver grease to turn up to do the connections, but so far, so good... Have you checked your connections on the battery and the hot lead on the starter yet? Any of those being just a little bit loose will prevent the starter from turning over. I had the "press the starter button, hear the starter engage, no turn over, hit it again and it starts" symptom a while back. I put another 1/4 turn on the starter hot lead nut and the problem went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tripletom Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 No, but the symptoms were very much of having a flat battery or sticking solenoid, ie, push starter button, get click from starter, but nothing else, push again, click, nothing, again, click fzzt pop of starter fuse... A quick bout of charging from a charger and it would be fine. Given I had melting 30A fuse plastic I figured that would be a good place to start... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALdad Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 Problem solved. I replaced regulator with one I purchaced from MPH. $139.00 www.electrosport.com It's bigger than the stock one, I had to cut one of the male connectors off the faulty one and solder it to the pos. wire on the new one. All plugs up nice. Its supposed to be better than stock, we will see. The instructions say it is designed to work properly and safley without the 30amp fuse. Mph said to leave the fuse in. May be this would help some of you that are having a melting fuse problem? Cheer!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Problem solved. I replaced regulator with one I purchaced from MPH. $139.00 www.electrosport.com It's bigger than the stock one, I had to cut one of the male connectors off the faulty one and solder it to the pos. wire on the new one. All plugs up nice. Its supposed to be better than stock, we will see. The instructions say it is designed to work properly and safley without the 30amp fuse. Mph said to leave the fuse in. May be this would help some of you that are having a melting fuse problem? Cheer!! Be sure you are getting a good charging voltage. At high RPMs I believe it will be lower than the OEM voltage that can be as high as 14.6V. But the voltage is higher at low RPMs. You might want to read this thread about how to install the Electrosport regulator http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=electrosport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tripletom Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 No, but the symptoms were very much of having a flat battery or sticking solenoid, ie, push starter button, get click from starter, but nothing else, push again, click, nothing, again, click fzzt pop of starter fuse... A quick bout of charging from a charger and it would be fine. Given I had melting 30A fuse plastic I figured that would be a good place to start... Well...back where we started again. Thursday morning same symptoms, not a problem on the 240mile ride I did then friday morning click fzzt pop starter fuse. Nick a jump start off someone and then fine again. Really starting to get on my nerves now. The regularity has been increasing from being fine when I got the bike in Jan to now. I've done something like 3500 miles in that time and am wondering if the battery is goosed (odessy battery), or the reg. Voltages I have are- After being stood overnight- 12.76V At 1000rpm- 13.68V At 3000rpm- 13.68V I checked the voltage at the yellow wire from the reg where it meets the green/red one and it was only 12.36V, where else should I check please? I am thinking the starter fuse is blowing as there isn't enough juice to click the starter solenoid over properly, and either the battery or reg is causing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALdad Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 Be sure you are getting a good charging voltage.At high RPMs I believe it will be lower than the OEM voltage that can be as high as 14.6V. But the voltage is higher at low RPMs. You might want to read this thread about how to install the Electrosport regulator http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=electrosport It's charging,13.11 at the battery at 2k and up any rpm, no dash light comming on I guess that is good. battery is not getting fully getting charged 12.62 after 15 miles I used to get 12.77. I hooked it up as per manufactures instructions. green to black ground wire. red to red and white to white side of plug. I wonder if my hawker is also going bad. I cleaned everything. I hope I did'nt waste $$ again I probbaly should have got the ducati one? I am about at the end of know how. Edit, went back and read full previous thread on this. I may wire direct to battery. Let me thinks boutit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 It's charging,13.11 at the battery at 2k and up any rpm, no dash light comming on I guess that is good. battery is not getting fully getting charged 12.62 after 15 miles I used to get 12.77. I hooked it up as per manufactures instructions. green to black ground wire. red to red and white to white side of plug. I wonder if my hawker is also going bad. I cleaned everything. I hope I did'nt waste $$ again I probbaly should have got the ducati one? I am about at the end of know how. Edit, went back and read full previous thread on this. I may wire direct to battery. Let me thinks boutit. 13.11V is too low. I suppose it could be alternator or battery, but do wire directly to battery. I put an inline 30 fuse in between, but no fuse means less resistance. And create a fresh ground, too. I ran a short ground from regulator to engine and then a longer line from that ground point directly to battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Voltages I have are-After being stood overnight- 12.76V At 1000rpm- 13.68V At 3000rpm- 13.68V I checked the voltage at the yellow wire from the reg where it meets the green/red one and it was only 12.36V, where else should I check please? I am thinking the starter fuse is blowing as there isn't enough juice to click the starter solenoid over properly, and either the battery or reg is causing that. 12.76V overnight indicates the battery is likely good, but it is not definitive. At 1000rpm- 13.68V Are you sure? that is much better than my charge at idle. At 3000rpm- 13.68V A little low, but may be enough to keep a good battery going, if your rides are not too short. The 12.36V seems to be too low. That was with ignition off, right? You probably have too much resistance along the red/green line, or maybe at the 30AMP fuse block. Look in the workshop manual for testing procedures. I could probably post some if you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tripletom Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Yup 13.68v between 1-3000rpm. At 4000rpm it rose to 13.70V. Last night it played up again and so I shorted between the +ve and -ve terminals on the stater sol, the starter motor span up. I checked battery voltage again (ignition live) and it was 12.54V. I prodded the starter button and it started fine. I am now considering if the relay is sticking also *rollseyes* I've stripped and cleaned the starter motor and solenoid assembly last night so will reassemble and it should be better. It was very dirty and full of dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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