mznyc Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Finally getting around to replacing all springs in tranny cover but ran into a snag. I put cover on without sealant to check shifting and it shifted into gear(I think first) but then wouldn't budge. Figuring I put one of the springs back in incorrectly ,I want your opinions as to which on is wrong I think it's the one under the shifter shaft. Figure I'll put the cover back on in first gear and should align up,if not try second. Thanks Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 .... Figuring I put one of the springs back in incorrectly ,I want your opinions as to which on is wrong I think it's the one under the shifter shaft... Hi Michael. Spring in pix 1 & 3 is fitted wrong. It should be fitted to shift shaft/pawl arm assembly before fitting that assembly into cover. Looking at your pic 1, when correctly fitted, lower arm of spring would sit above post, crossing over upper arm. See pic below. Fit cover assembly to trans after selecting neutral. KB BFG's excellent How to: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872&st=0&gopid=180886& Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 Thanks Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 NB: Ignore position of pawl arm spring in my photo - that's a broken one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 OK Keith think I got the assembly back together correctly,will go up/down through gears by hand but wont budge in neutral once I mount her.Just using a couple bolts to hold her on.Feels snug but maybe have to use more for test?Neutral lined up with indent,dots on wheels line up in first.Transmission is still in gear. Should that plate that I'm pointing to have some play ?It does up and down and rotates clock-wise till it hits 6th gear position,assume that's correct See anything out of place? Thanks MZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 More pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 If neutral is selected on selector mechanism, you should also select neutral on the trans. You can do this by setting spaces between sliding dogs & gears equidistant - so that sliding dogs are centred in their location on shafts. From your photo I take it the factory punch marks on the seeger rings indicate first gear, & you have selected neutral by checking at detente, then marked rings in ink? It's a while since I've seen inside one of these & I can't recall if factory punch marks indicate first or neutral - mine didn't have any. KB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 Yup my alignment punches indicate first and markers are neutral. Sorry for being stupid ,but could you explain how to align dogs,ASSuming those are the four shafts pointing out.Lotta confused there as what to do without screwing it up. Thanks Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 Think I got what you said K,slid dogs till I got tranny in N. Pulled back so Ill have to call it a day. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 ...could you explain how to align dogs,ASSuming those are the four shafts pointing out... Those are the selector forks, the pins facing you engage with the selector mechanism. Other ends sit on sliding collars (numbered 2 & 8 in diagram) which they move laterally to engage gears (by meshing the teeth [dogs] on their sides with those on the sides of the gears). To put trans in neutral, centre these sliding collars (dogs) in their spaces on the upper & lower layshafts: ie. each to be equidistant from gear on both sides. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Selector forks are 3,4,5 & 6 in this diagram: Pins engage with rings 12 & 14 of selector mechanism. Forked ends sit on sliding collars(also known as sliding dogs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Got it back together. Took it down my gravel road and shifting action already feels a Lot lighter. Thunderstorms moving in so may not be able to give her a proper test for a few days.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delman Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 you know some times we over complicate things as simple as they may be just tried what Baldini suggested and wala the gear box is in neutral and i can roll the bike freely I thought I had to disengage the gear box from the gear its in (sliding the actual gears) thank you for all your input it certinly made it easier to understand the mechanics of it new spring and ratchet arm are in the mail should have them by the weekend will post the results thanks a milion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worthyperformance Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 These are my notes from replacing the pawl spring in my 2004 V11 LeMans Nero Corsa: Removing the plate 1. Unbolt the Ohlins shock reservoir cannister then secure it out of the way. 2. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 3. Take off starter cover, disconnect then remove the starter. Tape over the now-open clutch cover to prevent wayward hardware from dropping in. 4. Disconnect the neutral switch. 5. Discontent the shifter rod then remove the gear change lever from the shifter plate. 6. Put a pan under the transmission. Optionally, drain the transmission fluid. Plan on replacing the fluid with Red Line Heavy Shockproof gear oil. 7. Remove the 11 socket-head screws that hold on cover. It may be necessary to shorten the hex key to get to the screw in the lower left corner. It will be necessary to shorten the hex wrench to get at least the screw in the lower left corner. Tap the edge of the plate with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Disassembly 1. Remove selector retaining plate. Use a 19mm wrench to prevent the lever while removing the slotted screw. Plan on replacing the slotted screw with a hex screw. 2. Remove the plate. 3. Remove the 2 snap-rings on top of the selectors. 4. Plan on replacing all 4 snap-ring retainers as they may become stretched. Note: The selector shafts are 12mm. Correct snap-rings do not seem to be commonly available in the US so it may be necessary to order from a Moto Guzzi parts dealer. 5. Remove the lower 2nd-4th-6th selector. 6. Remove the upper 1st-3rd-5th selector along with the selector shaft. Both may come out by pushing on the outside end of the shaft but it may be necessary to use a screwdriver to lift the indent roller lever away from the selector. 7. Inspect shifter shaft seal and order replacement if necessary. Assembly 1. Set the selector lever spring on the selector shaft by hooking each end of selector spring over the pin on the selector lever. Do not hook the shifter pawl spring onto the pawl yet. Note: The "newest" replacement spring from MG Cycle looked identical to the broken one so I obtained a "scud" super spring, which was obviously more robust. 2. Lubricate the selector lever shaft then partially insert it into the shifter cover. Make sure the pawl spring is in position to hook it onto the pawl. 3. Lubricate the upper upper 1st-3rd-5th selector shaft, slide the selector into position on the shaft with the indexing mark facing toward the lower selector shaft then slip the shifter pawl into place behind the selector gear. 4. Slide the selector lever and the upper selector down simultaneously making sure the selector lever spring does not bind and the tab on the selector stop plate is aligning with the corresponding notch on the bottom of the selector. Use pliers to move the indent roller away from the selector to allow it to slip into place. 5. Hook the pawl spring onto the pawl. 6. Lubricate the lower 2nd-4th-6th selector shaft then slide the selector onto the shaft making sure to align the indexing marks on both selectors. 7. Secure both selectors on their shafts with new snap rings. 8. Install the selector plate using new snap rings. Put a dab of Loctite on the screw. Use a 19mm open end wrench to prevent the lever pin/detent lever shaft from turning while you tighten the screw. This is easier if you replace the slotted screw with a hex head screw. 9. Rotate the selectors until the pawl is at its closet point to the adjustable eccentric then adjust the eccentric to a 0.30-0.40mm gap. 10. Rotate the selectors to the neutral position so the neutral sensor is aligned with the hole on the back of the lower 2nd-4th-6th selector. Installation · It's a good idea to dry-fit it first (without sealant) so you have a feel for it and don't get sealant everywhere · Insert the lower left scew into its hole. · Longer screws in the lower-middle and upper left corner where the locating tubes are. · You want as clear and straight an approach as possible so you don't get sealant everywhere. · Wedge a screwdriver under the fuel line to keep it above the transmission case. · Turn on the bike then confirm that the neutral light is working by shifting to first and second. If the light does not work, it is possible that one of the circlips failed to stay in its groove and allowed the cam wheel to shift inboard where it did not contact the neutral switch. 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiomick Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 3 hours ago, worthyperformance said: Disassembly ... 3. Remove the 2 snap-rings on top of the selectors. 4. Plan on replacing all 4 snap-ring retainers... Could you tell me (us) which part number you are referring to? The parts must be on this diagram: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/schaltung-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020330_300602033012.html I expect to be going in there in the foreseeable future (maybe this winter), and would like to have those sort of things ready to go before I start. PS: 3 hours ago, worthyperformance said: 5. Discontent the shifter rod How does one do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now