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03 V11 runs like crap


drewladams

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You haven't by any chance disturbed the timing sensor recently have you? If this is slightly out of position it can cause back-firing and uneven running at low revs.

 

Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

Nope, have not touched it.  

 

Hi,

 

 

I reset the left side intake boot

What does this mean?
 
It means the boot between the TB and the cylinder head had been pushed off by the backfiring on the TB side and I got it seated back on correctly.
 

Under acceleration they are apart more than they should be but if I adjust it then they are apart at idle.  

 

re-read my earlier post. The mechanical synchronization with closed throttle is done with both idle stop screws, with open throttle it's done with the white screw on the connecting rod.

 

I adjusted at idle using the idle stop screws and bypass screws.  Tried adjusting under open throttle with white knob and its throws it off, will try again today.

 

The tech said that since I adjusted the TPS that they need to go in and tell the ECU that the adjustment had been made...or something like that. 

The 15M/15RC doesn't have this functionality. Later ECUs do.

 

The ECU can neither sense if an adjustment of TPS has been made nor can it be told. It reads the voltage coming from the TPS and uses the according breakpoints in the maps.

 

Assume that, if you have backfiring at constant throttle opening, the engine is running much to lean due to lean map values or a leak on the intake side. If it backfires while closing the throttle, you might have a leak in the exhaust as well.

 

Im going to look closer for a leak as the map has not changed and ran just fine before the issue popped up.

Cheers!

 

Cheers

Meinolf

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Well I put silicone around the cracks and for good measure checked the other side and there are fine cracks that you can only see if you have a real bright, led type, flashlight.  I let it sit for a bit to dry then fired it up and was able to balance the TBs at idle and at about 3000 rpms.  The hickup is still there but only when I hold it at about 1800 rpms.  Its not as bad but it is still there.  

 

Im going to order new boots for both sides and spray some cleaner in the TBs when they come in.  Whats the best way to replace the boots between the TB and cylinder head?  Do you start at the intake box and start removing or is there an easier way?

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Wrap those rascals in electrical tape till your rubber boots come in. Maybe you can temporarily cure the problem and enjoy the bike for a few days.

  1. Loosen hose clamps from airbox side of TB
  2. Push airbox tubes backward, into airbox
  3. Loosen hose clamps between TB and head
  4. Pull TBs backward and take out the boots

I can't remember if you need to disconnect the throttle cable or fast idle cable - so watch those when you pull the TBs back.

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Wrap those rascals in electrical tape till your rubber boots come in. Maybe you can temporarily cure the problem and enjoy the bike for a few days.

  1. Loosen hose clamps from airbox side of TB
  2. Push airbox tubes backward, into airbox
  3. Loosen hose clamps between TB and head
  4. Pull TBs backward and take out the boots

I can't remember if you need to disconnect the throttle cable or fast idle cable - so watch those when you pull the TBs back.

^This.

 

Remember that the TB's are connected by a rod. Keep them connected, but as you wiggle the TB assembly toward the back of the bike, the rod can get hung up on the mess under the tank. Move both TB's together, as a set....you don't want to torque or bend the connecting rod, even a little bit.

 

Go slowly and get a good light under there while you wiggle away. That sounds really odd when I say it that way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

First of all, Happy New Year!

 

I thought I would update my progress.  I have installed the new intake gaskets that go from the TBs to the cylinder and have balanced everything out and got the idle set to about 1000 RPMs.  It runs well but I still get an occasional hiccup at around 1800-2000 RPMS.  Its not consistent and I have done everything I know to do except change the plugs but I don't think that will change a thing as the idle is smooth.  When I blip the throttle it responds nicely, when I try to slowly accelerate and hold it at around the 1800-2000 mark it seems to struggle just a bit.

 

I have yet to get it out on the street but I am confident it will run like a banshee when I do.  I am thinking that a trip to the tech is in order...

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1) First of all, Happy New Year!

 

2) when I try to slowly accelerate and hold it at around the 1800-2000 mark it seems to struggle just a bit.

 

3) I am thinking that a trip to the tech is in order...

 

1) And to you!

 

2) Downshift and hammer it

 

3) Have you tried any fuel system cleaner, like Seafoam or whatever? Maybe a little flush of the system would improve the consistency of the fuel delivery.

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I've been following and enjoying this thread.  Other than feeling badly for your aggravation, I have learned a great deal from your accounts and the great information from others.  Thanks! 

One thing:  I've noticed you hadn't yet changed the plugs.  Despite the good idle, it just seems like one of those easy things worth looking into.  At the least, you might swap the plugs around to see if the symptoms change.  Got very lucky doing this first on a two-valve Ducati once and can't forget it!

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It is often suggested that the V11 does not really like to run smoothly below 3k rpm.

There is also a tendency to "sneeze" at lower rpms.

What gear are you in when it does this?

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I changed the plugs about 1500 miles ago hence my hesitation to change them now but for the few dollars I might very will do so.  I will be running some fuel system cleaner through it as well and I was able to clean the throttle bodies while changing out the intake tubes.  BTW, the old intake tubes showed no sign of wear on the inside, I could not see anywhere that air was getting in but it had to be getting in somewhere.  

 

I have yet to get it out on the street yet so it is not in gear when the pickup happens.  Ive been running it in the garage with a fan blowing.  I will say that the home made manometer shows how sensitive the adjustments are on this bike and frankly I am surprised that the air bleed screws hold position over any length of time.  At this point both are barely open and the TBs are synced pretty well.  She purrs like a kitten with an occasional hair ball...

 

The weather here is supposed to clear in the next day or so and I plan on getting it out and putting it through its paces.  

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Hiccups and stumbling are probably not caused but TB balance or bleed screws, but can be caused by tiny leaks in the exhaust system.

 

I would look downstream: headers tight, exhaust and mufflers all straight and tight. Try loosening them, wiggling and re-tightening. 

 

I have had good luck with this to clean the full system: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=60103

 

And this when parking the bike for a while: http://shop.bellperformance.com/products/ethanol-defense

 

Not sure if you have an Ethanol in your gas in TX, but it does cause issues with crud building up in the TB's, and not letting the TB butterflies fully close. The idle slowly creeping up is one symptom of this....

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We do have ethanol in our gas and I am sure it is not healthy for our engines.  

 

I checked the pipes and can't find anything loose.

 

I took it out for a spin today and was optimistic but no bueno!  Its going to the shop this week.

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I have not zero'd the fuel trim and don't have the equipment to do so, thats why its going to the shop.  From what I can tell I have done all that I am able to do on my own.  I am hopeful that its something simple that I have overlooked but at this point I gone over everything multiple times.  AF1 re-opens tomorrow and thats where its going.  Ill post up once I get her back.

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