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V11 Ecu diagnostics and reprogramming


Paul Minnaert

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Hi Sign, The V7 I want to help the guy to remap does not have a MyECU system in it - I was hoping to find a map I could load using Guzzidiag into the existing ECU.

Thanks for the offer but I don't think it will help us with this bike as it is also bog standard.

Pete Roper's reference to "buying Mark's (V7) map:"

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18539&p=211311

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  • 2 months later...

I've pinned a thread just to reference and source the three correct diagnostic cables:

 

      http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19612&p=213372

 

And a brief procedure for a "Decent Tune Up" to get your V11 to a baseline before reprogramming:

 

      http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610

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  • 2 weeks later...

While I am still learning how to use *guzzidiag* for the later computers (on the V7 and 1200 Sport), I have found it amazing in the basic tuning of the V11 even without changing the map with TunerPro.

 

Any V11 owner who has not used this to read and, perhaps, reset their CO Fuel Trim is missing a critical baseline in their V11 performance and reliability. Typical factory CO settings are often around minus 30 (at least in the USA).

 

I would like to donate to the developer, but cannot find a link to do that?

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I would like to donate to the developer, but cannot find a link to do that?

 

You can use the donate button within Guzzidiag or paypal to guzzidiag@gmail.com (either will accomplish the same thing). The PayPal transaction will come up with with

Bernd Knauber as the recipient, he is the programmer. 

(BTW Paul communicated the above to me when I asked the same question a while back.

Nick

 

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Thank you, Nick!

 

As valuable as this tool was at the latest South'n Spine Raid TechSessions, and as much as I encourage people to use it, I am happy to donate to Bernd.

 

Paul Minnaert  :thumbsup:  is also a fabulous part of our being able to share this experience as a community . . . .

 

. . . .  along with our Chief Whip,  :notworthy:Jaap Veldhorst.

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FWIW, I'm not seeing the "donate" button on the gizzidiag page, and the gmail link doesn't get me there, either.

 

EDIT: Alright, I see now when I open the actual guzzidiag app(lication), there is the "Donate" button.

gallery_328_223_9276.png

 

          Bottom line: time to donate! Thank you, Bernd, and Paul, and Jaap!

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  • 3 weeks later...

That is terrific, you mean to tell me I should have held off on the MyECU I bought because I hate black boxes

 

You are a hero.

 

Roy

Roy, tried sending you this PM but ya inbox must be full or something...

 

hey roy, 1st question, those red covers on your filters, are they to keep the rain etc out when parked or do you run with them on?
 
Now real reason, I have changed the exhaust on my bike which hasent upset the tuning much how ever when i put the pod filters on which have alloy velosity stacks made up to similer measuments as the air box ones that you run... the bike misfires badly at low to mid range, how have you tuned your bike to run well? remembering I think you have a 15M were as I have a 15RC
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Yesterday I loaded Meinolf's ECU .bin file #41 onto my bike. Meinolf has done a pretty good job developing that map.
I did this preparation to the bike, mostly at Meinolf's recommendation:
Step 1. Tighten loose clamp on RH cylinder intake hose, as I noticed black soot was marking the intake manifold stub. Snort at 2000 - 3000 still there, but much reduced.
Step 2. Check valve clearances. Found inlets both at 0.20mm, and exhausts both at 0.25mm. Adjusted all valve clearances to 0.25mm. Valve lash noise increased a little, 2-3000 rpm snort not noticed on short run.
Step 3. Check TPS is set between 0.150 & .157 volts, with RH throttle disconnected and butterfly fully closed. Found set at 0.155 volts, not adjusted. Approximately 1mm slop noticed in RH throttle butterfly shaft at bottom. A rebushing job for next winter.
Step 4. Close both air bleed screws fully, instead of half a turn out, and set idle on LH throttle stop. Seems to idle just as well as before, 1100 when warm.
Step 5. Synchronise throttles using manometer at 4000-5000 rpm. Slightly uneven synch at idle, probably due to air leaks in throttle body shafts. Runs well.
Step 6. Set fuel trim to zero, from +15. No noticable difference.
Step 7. Load Meinolf's super bin file #41, replacing titanium kit firmware.
Awesome!
It starts up to a stable idle without needing to touch the throttle. No need to wake the neighbors anymore.
It seems smoother in the off idle transition to 2000, with no hesitation, and it feels like the power curve is flatter.
I know that I wanted to believe that it would be better, so perhaps part of this is in my imagination but it seems more willing at all revs, and inspires greater confidence in low speed manoeuvres. I will give it a few more days, then I will try #42.
I wish I had a dynamometer in my garage to quantify the differences.

My bike Configuration,
- Original airbox, with OEM paper filter and rubber intake snorkels.
- The plastic velocity stacks are smoothed to remove moulding edges & bumps.
- Original air intake temperature sensor inside the air box.
- Original cylinder head oil temp sensor, but fitted into a brass pocket, MG part no. 30163301, packed with heat sink compound (thermally conductive paste).
- Original headers without crossover in front of the engine.
- Original crossover
- Titanium mufflers.
- ECU 15M without lambda sensor

So thanks to Meinolf, I'm off to work with a smile on my face, and bin file #41 working it's magic.

 

***Edit 17Oct2016 Report after a week:
I won't be going back to the previous Titanium ECU map I saved in case I needed to. Next step is to try Meinolf's super bin file #42.

 

***Edit 29Jan2017

#42 is even better.

However it might be too rich, as a guy behind me said he could smell fuel, and the oil temp doesn't get above 80 degrees C.

I'll see if reducing fuel trim gets it under control, or else I will have to start learning how to use Tuner-Pro.

Edited by MartyNZ
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The last 2 years I've been busy with others to work on diagnosics for the guzzi ECU and now reflashing it too.

 

seems to be a lot of different ideas about, typical guzzi what works for one dosent for another...

Hey Paul, as above I have changed the exhaust (under belly) on my bike which hasent upset the tuning much how ever when i put the pod filters on which have alloy velosity stacks made up to similer measuments as the air box ones... the bike misfires badly at low to mid range, do you have asny ideas on sorting this? remembering I think you have a 15M were as I have a 15RC
I do have a Titium racing ecu comming my way think its a 15M would that be an option?
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  • 4 weeks later...

Had success at this years Spine Gathering tuning my bike. Rather others tuning my bike for me. After I got home & re-set my valve clearances the idle speed went up from the 1200rpm we set it to, as Docc predicted.

So having bought the cables, downloaded Guzzidiag & now can see the program working with the bike running, the idle is at 1450rpm.

Newbie question ; how do you adjust the values , like the idle, through Guzzidiag ? I've been pushing & prodding but haven't figured that bit out.

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 how do you adjust the values , like the idle, through Guzzidiag ?

 The idle is adjusted through the small hex screw at either the left of right intake.

 

Most use the left intake for the idle adjustment and back the RH adjustment screw off all the way, so that the linkage between the two throtle bodies is always under tension (at idle and off idle).

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  • 2 months later...

Quick question on the FTDI driver. Is it the VCP Virtual Com Port driver that should be downloaded?

 

Thanks!

That is my understanding. Make your selection based upon your computer's operating system and processor architecture (Not the bike's computer, the computer you are using to interface with the ECU software).

 

As I am not the expert to answer this, I welcome clarifications or corrections!

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